7/26 – Leipzig to Berlin with a visit to the Monument to the Battle of the Nations

Up, organized and packed, we walk our suitcases down to the parking garage, pay our fee and head out of town, passing by the Bayerischer Bahnhof on the way, for the quick drive over to the Volkerschlachtdenkmal – the Monument to the Battle of the Nations.

Dedicated to the battle of October 1813 between Napoleon and the allied armies of Russia, Prussia, Austria and Sweden, this massive building pays tribute to Napoleon’s victory (albeit after more than 90,000 lives were lost). It is the biggest monument in Europe, standing over 300 feet tall built, using 26,500 blocks of granite, weighing 300 tons, spanning over 900,000 square feet and taking over 15 years to build, finally being inaugurated 200 years after the battle.

Our visit begins in the basement, where we quickly find an elevator to take us up to the first level overlooking the Crypt and the Hall of Fame where the statues or warriors tower 35 feet tall in the massive dome that reaches the total height of the monument.

Around the Crypt are rooms that contain various information and exhibits, like Napoleon’s desk where they believe he may have drafted the final orders of the battle and other rooms that can only be accessed by private tour.

From here we ride another elevator up to the first viewing platform with incredible 360 degree views across the parkland behind the Monument and out to the City of Leipzig proper. There are also great close-up views of the massive stone statues that adorn the higher levels of the Monument.

Deciding not to climb the remaining 200 or so steps up to the top viewing platform – I mean, what more can we see? – we head back inside to circumnavigate the Singers Gallery – where the Leipzig choirs once stood to sing for events – and a wonderful birds’ eye view over the Crypt and Hall of Fame, before descending back down to the main floor.

On one side of the gigantic Monument is the Forum 1813 Museum that provides a good history of the Wars of Liberation and the massive battle over Europe’s political fate. A fabulous model that depicts the battle as it was being fought, with toy soldiers and smoldering buildings; uniforms that were worn during the battle; a rug that was part of Napoleon’s household on St. Helena – where we have visited (that’s a crazy, small world thing); and various other period pieces.

We wander around outside the grounds for a bit, taking plenty more pictures – it is an amazing building, and an amazing construction feat – then find a nice-shaded bench in the park at the base for our picnic lunch. After which we walk a little distance and find the small monument dedicated to Napoleon on a rise at the end of the woods.

And then we are on the road, making our way back to Berlin for the rest of the day – but on the way passing this wild building that looks like it was chopped off on one end, and the large Double M logo that represents Leipzig as the City of Trade.

With plenty of time before our 4pm check in time at the Steigenberger Airport hotel, we make a stop at the Genshagen Palace, where there are gardens to explore. The building isn’t open to the public – only for special events – but we figure the gardens will be nice. Well, they would have been if not for the fact that the bulk of the forest and lake portion was closed due to a “Massive infestation” of the Oak Processionary Moth/Caterpillar. Bummer! The small part we did walk was lovely and at least a nice break in the drive.

Then it is back to the Berlin airport, successfully dropping our car and finding our way to the hotel where we have a massive corner room – well, the entryway was massive and the rest of the room perfectly equipped with everything we need for one night.

After getting settled, we reconnoitered the airport, wandering about, looking at the interesting murals and bizarre metal statue in the lobby. Then it was over to the bar for a pre-dinner drink, and since we had so much food left, a picnic dinner in the room.