8/5 – Afternoon at Maredsous Abbey and Annevoie Water Gardens

Our next stop is the Maredsous Abbey, founded in 1872, where the monks are famous for their beer (of course) and also their cheese.  What the heck, a little libation in the afternoon.  The winding little roads lead us right to the huge Abbey – and the packed parking lot.  Hmmmm….  We visit the abbey first, the home of Benedictine monks that live according to the Rule of Saint Benedict, from Norcia (where we’ve been and loved eons ago). 

Inside, the massive chapel soars above us, with massive columns and gorgeous stained glass windows – the one on the right is for me:  St. Catherine!  Little side chapels hold lovely wooden altars and as we leave, we walk under the massive organ up above us in the choir perch.

Outside, seeking beer, we walk to the brewery, restaurant, shop, museum complex.  This is where all the people are!  Basically a European Sierra Nevada!  Jam packed with people eating, ordering their beer and snacks at the controlled chaos of the take out place.  Yikes.  But – we’re here, so when in Rome….We order our 2 beers and a sausage and cheese (the same cheese btw that they package and sell in the grocery store and we have in the fridge at the apartment!), find a lovely table in the corner in the shade and enjoy a nice little snack. 

Nice diversion.  Now onto our last stop in the part of the world – the Annoevile Water gardens. Begun in 1758, the gardens combine French symmetrical landscaping, Italian style garden design and English return-to-nature themes all together in one huge flowing garden.  In addition there are 50 different natural spring-fed waterfalls, fountains and ponds that are over 250 years old and still operating today. 

We wander through long gardens lined with enormous trimmed shrubbery, passing water jet fountains (think that might be cupid) and the Chateau – built in the 18th century, restored to look exactly as it would have when it was built in the 1700s.

Across from the Chateau are the “water steps,” or Le Buffet d’eau.  A series of fountains that are “stepped” down the slope – unique in Belgium for surviving in such good condition, running since 1760 – with Neptune at the top overseeing it all.

Past the Chateau is what is referred to as the “Grand Drive” – with the 4 Trompe-l’oeil statues symbolizing the 4 seasons.  They are bas-relief on the front, and flat on the back – we had no idea this was what trompe-l’oeil was!

At the end of an arbor is La Fontaine de l’Amour – where of course we had to take a selfie – and more statues, fountains, and beautiful garden features.

Circling around the end of the park, we come upon the private church and crypt where the descendants of the original owners of Chateau and parkland are buried.

Now on the upper level, we wander past an artificial grotto – popular in the 17th and 18th centuries – odd modern steel sculptures, and wonderful views down to the chateau.

At the other end of the park, we visit the goats used for maintenance, as well as a weird modern sculpture by David Nash called the Red Column. 

Sadly, near the goats, I manage to brush up against some greenery which stings the heck out of my arm – and turns out to be stinging nettles!  Oh my gosh, it hurt so much (for so long!!!).  Who would have known? Well, probably everyone with any gardening sense, which means not me!

Making our way down through the remaining flower gardens, we circle back around to the visitor center where there is an interesting museum that details all the inner workings of the gardens.

There are great birds’ eye photos of the gardens, letting you see everything we just walked through, as well as maps of the hydraulics in work that power the fountains.

Quite interesting, and making for a nice end to a very pleasant afternoon, wandering through the 30 acres of parkland.  Nettles notwithstanding. 

On the way back to the apartment, over the little bridges that cross the Meuse, we finally get a decent shot of the oddly placed naked female torso statues that adorn the bridge.  Have no comment.  It is definitely and interesting place here in Wallonia.

Dinner is once again at home, in our cozy little apartment as we get ready to move to our final destination in the morning:  Landegem.

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