7/23 – Leipzig by way of Bayreuth

Time to say goodbye to Nuremberg, as we retrieve our car from the wild garage and make our way out of town, passing by just one more great mural on the way. Today we are heading to Leipzig, with a stop in Bayreuth at the old Ermetage on the way. Originally dating from 1715, built on the site of a zoo of all things, the old building was the focal point of the Hermit’s woods and order. The sister of Frederick the Great, Margravine Wilhelmine, inherited the building and began expanding it in 1735, turning it into a summer residence. She also expanded the beautiful gardens that surround the property, where we begin our explorations.

The gardens are beautiful with tons of hedgerows and fabulous paths through the trellis of trees, as well as water features. It is lovely and peaceful…..

…until we hear the children. Hundreds of school kids are descending upon the gardens. At least 6 different groups. Ay yi yi. We can only hope they aren’t going to try to go into the house on tour as we’ll never be able to see inside.

At any rate, we continue our wanderings, around the odd, stoned mosaic buildings that make up the Neues Schloss (new palace) that are beautiful, yet bizarre.

Making our way further into the gardens, we find the Alte Schloss and wander around the perimeter, enjoying the arbor-like trees and the wonderful gardens and fountains at the rear of the Palace.

We found where to get tickets for a tour at 9:45 and to our great surprise and relief, there were only 6 of us. All adults, no kids. Phew. (As it turns out, the kids were all there for some show being put on in an arena by the gardens.) The tour is all in German, but we are given English explanation cards to follow along, which makes things easy (although using Google Translation works too). Regardless of which language, the Ermetage is amazing. We enter through a Grotto in the basement with a huge waterworks fountain run only on water pressure. No pumps. No electricity, nothing. Wild.

To show just how strong the water pressure is, we get a demonstration with the fountain raising a medal candelabra way up into the air and then bringing it down again, perfectly seating it on the stone nozzle.

The rest of the house was cool too. Walking through the inner courtyard, we start in the hermit rooms, moving to Margravine’s bedroom, then side rooms and galleries.

Everywhere there are ceiling frescoes, marble (in the marble hall of course) and then the Japanese room, the panels of which were given to Marbravine by her brother (she identified with Chinese rulers for some reason, thus the Japanese room and further on the mirrored Chinese room)

More galleries, the aforementioned Chinese room, her bedroom and then finally the kitchen.

Really interesting stories, architecture and décor. A great stop overall. Particularly for the design and architecture, as embodied by the bizarre heads on the side of one stone wall of the Ermetage.

Back on the road, we make a pit stop for coffee and gas at a great little roadside shop with the nicest clerk there. Just lovely people. Then it is onto Leipzig.

Where we immediately get lost – thank you google maps! – trying to find the parking lot. We missed the closest lot because the stupid maps try to make you go all the way around the wrong way. Ended up finding the Q market parking and lucked into a fantastic spot right up front by the exit! And bonus – this place is only 20 euros/day. 5 euros cheaper than the garage we missed. Happy accident. No, we aren’t thanking Google Maps!

A quick walk through the old town gets us to the Quartier M Apartmenthotel. The best!! We have a fabulous 1 bedroom, completely equipped, modern apartment with A/C – thank you very much – right on the edge of the Old Town. The perfect place from which to explore Leipzig. Absolutely great.

After dumping our bags, we head out across the Burgplatz to the Lidl for supplies, then later walk back across Burgplatz, in front of the gorgeous Stadt Leipzig, the city hall, to Ratskeller Leipzig, the Brauhaus, for dinner. No reservations, but not a problem as this place is huge and we are early (knowing the penchant for everyone to eat late!). We indulge in a great, meal of Ostliebe, East German-style breaded and pan-fried hunting sausage with fusilli and tomato sauce, for Ed and the slightly un-German Cacio e Pepe for me. Yum.