7/19 – Dresden Residenzschloss and Zwinger museums

Today we are back to the Old Town, although it is raining when we awake.  We try for an Uber, but nothing is available, or they won’t take the ride, or whatever. So off we go with our umbrellas, walking back to the old town in the rain. Not so bad actually. 

Arriving at the Residenzschloss, the Royal Palace, we sort of “snuck in” the back way.  Got to the back gate just as the guard was opening it. He escorted us in, showed us where the lockers were and the entrance. Told us he was on duty the night of the heist in 2019 and he had to go to the police station 3x for questioning!  So cute.

As with virtually all the buildings here in Dresden, the palace was destroyed by bombing in WWII and then been rebuilt to the same look as in the 1600s when Augustus the Strong resided there.  Always a repository for Dresden’s art collections, since 1485, the palace has been renovated and turned into the palace of arts and sciences housing major collections of the city.

We are lucky enough to be able to visit the Old Green Vault, which has just recently reopened. This is where the main collection of “jewelry” and other priceless collectibles are stored. Over 2500 works of art. Unfortunately, no photos are allowed, so you will have to just believe us that it was room after room of incredible gold and porcelain and over the top riches! Each room has its own décor – the amber cabinet, the ivory room, the white silver room …it just goes on and on. It is all so valuable that you have to enter through double door lock system – only a certain number of people are allowed in at one time.

Next is the new green vault where more than 1000 pieces of art are on display in 10 rooms.  Ay yi yi.  At least here we can take pictures. Of drinking goblets in the shape of mythical creatures that have shells incorporated into them (go figure!), intricate gold clocks, a bizarre perfume holder with little bottles being carried by ivory men on one of the carrying chairs.  Carvings, figurines, a fabulous huge owl goblet. It goes on and on.

Room after room – The armory with all the suits of armor and the monument to Augustus the Strong’s brother and the little suits of armor for the electoral princes, aged 7, 5 and 1 years old, the bizarre Three-Masted Ottoman style tent that takes up most of one room – apparently to be used for some event Augustus the Strong was holding in the 17th century. 

The paintings, the Small Ballroom, The State Apartments, the Thrones.  The pistols engraved with biblical scenes.  A cloak worn by one of the Kings in 1611.  Overwhelming.

All interspersed with views outside the Palace (a welcome break from the opulence) overlooking the stables and other beautifully reconstructed facades.

We can’t even begin to explore anything else here, our heads are so full of sights and excesses – we’re off to lunch!  At….are you ready for this….an Irish Pub!  Traditional German/Irish lunch.  Actually an excellent meal at the Shamrock, which is right around the corner from the Palace.  Fish and Kartofellsalat for me, Meatloaf for Ed. Beer and wine.  Perfect.   

Then we are off to the Zwinger museums – more opulence and overwhelming art.  The paintings, too many to even begin. Although there was a really cool exhibit of Albrecht Durer paintings juxtaposed (sort of) with paintings deemed “imaginary memories” and called “In The Face of Humanity.”  Interesting.  Also a fascinating glass window enclosed space where you can see how they work to restore paintings.  A Rubens was being worked on when we were there (or at least staged to be worked upon).  And that was just the Old Masters. 

Now we are off into the courtyard to visit the Porzellansammiumg – or Porcelain collections.  Oh – an all these buildings?  Built just for August the Strong son’s wedding!  Eek. 

Ok, so, porcelain was one of Augustus the Strong’s things, his passion.  He loved porcelain, as we have seen from the “Japanese Palace” previously, so much so, he was the one who actually created Meissen – or at least set up the first European porcelain manufacturing company at the Albrechtsburg in….yes, Meissen.  There, in 1710, began the storied history of one of the most famous and sought after porcelain manufacturers. And here, in this wing of these amazing buildings is just a fraction of the royal porcelain collection.  We aren’t even going to begin to try to explain or categorize any of this.  Just enjoy the pictures.  Suffice it to say – it was a crazy, nuts, amazing collection.

After our heads have exploded with art and precious collections, we decide we’ve had enough for the day, we just want some light foods for dinner at the apartment.  We sort of forgot it was Sunday though.  Pooh. There is NOTHING open on Sunday, save restaurants.  We managed to find one Lidl open at the train station, so off we go to the station for our additional dinner supplies – that, tbh, we didn’t even need, but now we have!

Back at the apartment we organize for our departure and hang out eating a great light (ha!) meal of ham, cheese and of course, kartoffelsalat!  And watch a beautiful rainbow appear over the trees in the distance.  Great end of our time here in Dresden.

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