We have a beautiful sail in this morning, the rain has stopped (for now) and there is some fog, but still gorgeous vistas out to the snow-capped mountain peaks in the distance. Today we have our morning free, then an afternoon Bike and Hike, which we are taking rain or shine. 

We already have our shuttle tickets for the first shuttle at 8, where we lead the pack and grab the first seats as we wait for others to join.  On our way shortly thereafter, the talkative shuttle driver cum tour guide keeps a running commentary going the entire 20-minute ride (which is far longer than usual he says, the traffic is unusual!).  He points out sights and talks about the “spendy” restaurants, etc., making for a very pleasant transfer.  Once in town, we strike out on our way to the National Historic Park, passing the jam-packed marina and various whale and seal statues along the way (in the rain).

Walking along the edge of Crescent Bay, we have a hazy long view out to the many little islands dotting the bay as well as encountering some of our first totem poles of the walk.  Of course as we venture further into the Cloud Forest and around the Totem Trail Loop, we encounter plenty more!  A total of 16 altogether – each with its own symbolism, story and exquisitely detailed carvings.  The Yaadaas Crest Corner pole for the Yaadaas Clan; The Raven Shark pole symbolizing an associated legend; The Trader Legend symbolizing a dishonest Sitka trader.  None of the poles were originally here – these are all reproductions, but still they tell a riveting story of the early life here in Sitka.

We have the 1-mile trail virtually to ourselves, as we wind through the Tongass Forest, passing the bayfront, where we watch as a huge flock of birds takes flight from the Bay. Then it is back into the forest and more Totem Poles – these located at the old Tlingit Fort where the Kiks.adi Clan fought against invading Russian forces in 1804.  The Tlingits were so crafty, they put dead fish on top of their buildings to attract birds so that it appeared the fort was abandoned.  Sadly, it didn’t help as they ran out of ammunition and were defeated; however they stalled enough to give the civilians time to escape, which began The Survival March – a trek across Baranof Island and the Peril Strait to establish a new camp near Lake Eva in Hanus Bay.

The trail turns back toward the NPS visitor center, following the Indian River where the salmon run during the season.  The trail is reminiscent of Bent Creek at home, although with different trees, such as the towering Western Hemlocks with their “bacon” bark and Sitka Spruce trees (the Alaska state Tree) with “potato chip” bark.  It is gorgeous out here with all the trees, the intriguing root formations and the river running through it all.

Finished with our walk, we head into the Visitor center, wandering through the historical displays that provide more information on the Tlingits, the Russians and the culture here. 

Heading back into town, we pass the Sheldon Jackson School and College, one of the “better schools” available to native people.  In the early years, students who came here were forbidden to speak their Native language, as the general opinion was that speaking the language would hold the children back.  The College portion was added in 1966 by Presbyterian leaders, and the high school then closed in 1967 leaving only the college which became independent from the Church in 1973, finally closing for good in 2007.

Next we visit the Russian Bishop’s House, built in 1842.  Russian priests learned the Native languages, developing the first written forms of the language and translating religious texts to teach the Native children to read and write.  The Native Alaskans found many similarities between their customs and Russian Orthodox traditions, allowing them to continue to practice their own traditions in a Christian world.  

The museum inside the house has a wealth of historical information, providing background on the Russian American Company which oversaw all Russian settlements in Alaska; the manager of which was Aleksandr Baranov, thus the name of the peninsula and tons of other interesting displays and factoids.  Satisfying our historical needs, we left the Bishop’s house, passing St. Michael’s Cathedral with the traditional Russian domes and spires then onto the town of Sitka proper to wander around and look for some lunch.

We were on the look out for Slammin’ Salmon Fisherman’s Alley, supposedly a really good little place for lunch.  Unfortunately it was not to be found. There was a bunch of construction in an alleyway near the Baranof Castle site, which we think might have been the restaurant, but it was clearly not open – not even a sign anywhere.  So we ended up at the “spendy” restaurant – the Cold Water Bar & Grill – for an early, and yes, spendy lunch!  One order of Halibut Fish and Chips, one of Halibut Nuggets, a beer and a wine – and well – we were well over $100 with tip.  Sheesh. It was all good….I mean you have to have Halibut in Alaska, but still. 

Totally full and looking forward to our bike ride to work some of our lunch off, we make a quick pit stop into a discount shop – sort of a Dollar store but not 1 Dollar! – to buy, of all things, sunglasses!  We left our sunglasses on the ship because it was so rainy and cloudy, but now the sun is peeking through and we need to be safer rather than sorry on our bike hike this afternoon.  Purchases complete we head back to the convention center to meet our tour – a nice small group of 8 with 2 awesome guides, Silas and Steely – hop in their van and head out into the wilderness for our afternoon excursion.

Arriving at Sawmill Cove Industrial Park, we grab out bikes and then head out into what turns out to be a bike ride up (and up and up and up) a steep hill on sidewalks alongside the Sitka Highway.  Not exactly what we were expecting, but we did get some good views of Silver Bay along the way – when we could clear our glasses off from the now pouring rain.  Fun!  LOL.

After a quick stop at the Whale Park (a popular place to view whales when they are around) for the restrooms…

…we head on out to the Thimbleberry Lake – Heart Lake Trail, our hiking destination.  Dumping our bikes, we head out into the rain forest with gorgeous rushing stream waters, a beautiful lake view and lots more tall, tall trees.  Along the way Silas and Steely give us information on the plants and animals that are here in the jungle. We learn about Alaskan skunk cabbages, pretty yellow flowering plants that do stink like a skunk.  The deer like them when they are in bloom and we can see evidence of their nibbling on quite a few. The boys provide tons more information on flora and fauna – like the Devil’s Club plant which has spiny thorns (and as the boys attest is not fun to fall into) but that provides healing properties and is made into a salve that soothes/cures just about any ailment of which you can think.  They are so cute and fun. And the best part is just listening to them talk to each other.   They’ve been friends since kindergarten and banter between them – and the memories they share – is just priceless.

The hike is only 1 mile total – not exactly strenuous – but fun nonetheless, as is the bike ride back down the highway! Soon we are depositing our bikes and helmets, hopping in the van and heading back to the port (a bonus that we don’t have to catch another shuttle) past beautiful scenery and snowcapped mountains all along the way. 

Arriving at the port, Silas takes us into the shops to a vending machine that sells the aforementioned Devil’s Club miracle salve, with each of buying a jar for a ridiculous price, but hey….  When in Alaska!  Afterward, we wander through a few shops, not finding anything all that interesting except the really cute lumberjack dressed up bear, before hopping back aboard to get ready for our evening at the Cellar Master’s Dinner.

The tour was short enough that we have time for a quick gym run before hanging out on the balcony for an incredibly scenic sail away – taking far too many pictures because it is just that gorgeous!

Then it is off to Canaletto for an incredible wine dinner:  Insalata Allo Scoglio (a huge shrimp, equally huge piece of lobster and a scallop), Caramelle Pasta (parmesan, eggplant – that Ed even ate – pasta and pine nuts), Branzino for Ed, Filetto dei Manzo for me and an excellent Fichi Gigliati (grilled figs with mascarpone cream). An excellent meal, excellent wine and fabulous scenery on view as we eat our way out of Sitka on our way to Ketchikan.