We are up extraordinarily early – even for us! – as we forgot to tape up the blanket over the windows last night. Those darn drapes will be the end of us – or at least the end of late sleeping. But while it is a pain we are up so early, it also allows us to gaze upon the gorgeous snow covered mountains as we sail into Hakodate.


Our plans have been changed entirely for today. Originally we had planned to go out to the Trappist Monastery and a park past the airport. But we have found the Cherry Blossom report and Goryokaku Park, with the star shaped fort, is at peak bloom right now with over 1600 Sakura trees planted during the Taisho era (1912-1926 before the war). We are not going to miss that – even though we’ve been to the park on our previous visit here. After a quick gym visit, we are off the ship as soon as we dock (early, again, thank you Captain Mark!). Our original plan was to walk to the Tower observatory – about 3 miles – but we discovered they open early, at 8am, because of the cherry blossoms. We know better than to wait, opting for a taxi to take us directly there before the hordes arrive. Perfect plan too – we arrive just as they are opening the doors and are among the first of the regular customers (as opposed to a tour group that was in early) to go up the tower.
Spectacular is the only word to describe the view of all those cherry blossoms around the fort. An incredibly gorgeous view from up high in the tower. You can see from the photos just what a sight it was to behold. And perfect to be up there early with only about 60 or 70 people, the vast majority Asian who were quite polite and didn’t hog the view too much.
Being the speed tourists that we are, we were in and out of the tower in less than 20 minutes! I mean what can you expect? We absorbed the view, took our photos and then headed out into the park itself to be up close and personal with the blossoms. It was a gorgeous, if not chilly day and just a perfect day to wander along the upper battlements of the fort.




Once again, the views are just magical. At times as if we are walking through a forest of cherry blossoms. We thought the blossoms in Yokohama were amazing 2 years ago – but they have nothing on this!





The next hour is spent happily circumnavigating the fort – climbing up and down the battlements, wandering through cherry blossom tunnels, watching everyone posing their dogs for pictures (yep, it’s a Japanese thing for sure).








And of course taking far more pictures than we can show here! What a fabulous morning.
True to our nature, we are leaving the park as the tours start pouring in. Back at the Tower lower level – where we briefly stopped to peruse the shop – the line to buy tickets is wrapped 5 or 6 times through the lobby, with 2 or 3 tours waiting on the periphery for their guide to come back with the tickets. TIE. The motto by which we live.

Deciding we want some coffee – and not here – we find a Tully’s on the map between the tower and the Art Museum, our next stop. What the map doesn’t show clearly is that the darn coffee shop is in the Hospital here! No way! Yes, way, and if we want coffee, we’re going in – with masks on, just as everyone else has. Too funny.
Coffee done, we hit the 7&I across the street in search of our latest addiction: Coffee Jelly. Not to be found sadly. Then it is on to the museum – where we stumble upon the Hakodate Northern Pacific Fisheries Museum located behind the Art Museum. I had seen it on the map, but didn’t realize it was right here in the same complex. For 200 yen, the two of us gain entry into a wonderful Maritime museum, filled with huge stuffed polar bears and seals, life size examples of fishing pots for crab and miniature scale models of the fishing net process, as well as panels describing the history of fishing in the area.




But probably the most fun and interesting was the “3 minute” simulator (the docent/sailor explained it was only 3 minutes!) that shows what it was like on a fishing vessel in the rough seas. Priceless!
Walking out into the courtyard on the way to the Art museum, the skies have clouded over with the threat of rain (that we had seen on the forecast for around 11 or 12). We are so happy we took off early to see the cherry blossoms, they will still be fabulous, but not the same as in the brilliant sunshine with bright blue skies.
Once in the art museum, we ended up only going to the special exhibition of Japanese painters who revived the Japanese-style painting after the war. We had a discount from going up in the tower, but it was only for the special exhibit, and, oh, I don’t know – we sort of just accepted whatever the sweet reception desk woman was saying – in Japanese of course – and didn’t pay extra for the standard exhibition because it wasn’t included. Regardless, this exhibit was wonderful – beautiful examples of traditional art on scrolls, fabulous pictures of Mt. Fuji, an adorable cat and butterfly portrait and totally realistic cherry blossoms and birds. All in all a great way to spend 30 minutes or so perusing.








Getting to be about lunchtime, we left the museum for the long trek back to the ship and the morning market area where we knew there were tons of restaurants. The 3 mile walk took us about 45 minutes, during which time we passed lots of great manhole covers and really, not much else. The street we walked down – literally one street for most of the way – was lined with little bars that opened later and lots of empty store fronts. A couple of grocery stores, a 7&I with no Coffee Jelly, and not much more.



Finally arriving at the port area, we looked in the train station for a lunch spot, but nothing appealed. Then we found an Okonomiyaki spot a block away! Yay. Ok – so in hindsight we really should have gone to the market and had seafood – it is a big seafood town – but this is the 2nd to last Japanese port and I’ve not had Okonomiyaki yet and they also had sizzling seafood for Ed and well, we just had to do it. And it was so, so worth it. Oh my gosh. A little local place, we were the only 2 people there, the chef cooked it right on the flat top in front of us and sizzled Ed’s garlic squid and shrimp there too. The food was absolutely to die for. Add in a Berry beer for Ed and a glass of wine for me. Perfection. Now I can leave Japan happy!









Next we wandered through the closing market – remember – it is the morning market! We were there well past morning! Walked past closing seafood restaurants (regrets? Yeah, a little), then hit the souvenir shop on the corner, buying too much crap – as usual – but also finding Orange Kit Kats for Charles, one of our fav bartenders, then heading back to the ship to figure out where we are going to store all this junk! Thank heavens for walking 12 miles a day – that’s gotta count for something!
The rest of the afternoon proceeded as normal, gym, drinks – although I have to search through the ship for anything resembling a Pinot Grigio as we are officially out of the wine. Crisis time! I found one remaining almost full glass in the Crow’s Nest – after that – nada. I’m on to the white blend (let’s hope that lasts in the dining room) and a semi-passable Reisling at the show – which was a great production show, btw. Holland has really upped its game with the shows onboard. We love the cast and this particular Show – A Swing Thing – was totally creative. Putting non-traditional songs into swing versions. Excellent.

Then to Ocean’s bar for the last glass of a White Bordeaux – I’m already kicking myself I didn’t sneak on some Vinocent from 7&I today! – and we are back in the cabin for the night watching Netflix. Excellent day and evening – and we even remembered to tape up the blanket and towel to the windows to block out the morning light! Day done!























