Our first day in Pinhao starts off drizzly and rainy. After waking up to our coffee – sadly inside and not on the fabulous rooftop due to the weather – we head off for a morning walk through the vineyards of Quinta do Bomfim. They are gorgeous in all shades of yellow, red and brown – beautiful in the late fall colors.

Unfortunately, it is a short walk as the weather is threatening, making us turn back into town quickly. We took refuge in one of the few coffee/pastry shops open (because it is off season, lots of the restaurants and cafes are either closed for the season or closed for a weeklong holiday since it is the slow season), enjoying more coffee and pasteis da natal. Love those little egg tarts!

Returning home, we freshen up, then hit the road up the mountain behind Pinhao to D’Origem – Museu do Azeite – an Olive Oil “museum”!

D’Origem is a 4th generation Olive oil and winery that has turned its original factory into a museum and now do tastings and serve charcuterie plates if you want to order extra (we did not – pricey!). But the tour and the tasting were great – plus we were way up on the mountain with gorgeous scenery looking down over the Douro river (when the clouds and fog weren’t rolling in!).

After a lovely visit, we stroll around the grounds of the Olive Oil factory in the wet mist – loving the view and the peacefulness up here, if not the weather.

Retrieving our car, Ed brilliantly navigates through the narrow cobblestone streets and back down the scenic mountainside to river level, where we parked the car and wandered off in search of lunch.

Our 3rd choice (the other 2 were closed despite what Google maps says!), Restaurante Veladouro, was open and, once again, it was only us for a good 20 minutes. Private dining! Figuring we would not eat too heavily, we decided to share some appetizers – smoked sausage (really different and really good, creamy inside the casing, almost like a croquette creamy filling – excellent!), veal carpaccio (excellent as well) and a ham (prosciutto) and cheese (huge hunk of really great soft cheese) plate with bread. All excellent – and again – a whole lot of food!

After that filling lunch, we retreated to the apartment, staying dry and debating our afternoon options. Do we stay in? Or try to walk over to a vineyard for a tasting….in the rain….hmmmmm…..Eventually the walking won out – but not the wine tasting. Managing to dance between the rain drops, we wandered down along the waterfront, passing the Pinhao sign, enjoying the emptiness and the beautiful views across the Douro.

Continuing on toward Bom do Quinta, we watch as River Boats sail by, all decked out for the holidays, enjoying more gorgeous scenery.

Making our full loop, we peruse all the restaurants on the main street – many of which are closed for a holiday – and end up hitting the grocery store for dinner provisions, then spending a nice relaxing evening at home, in Casa Rocha.