We have a relaxing morning as we sail into Valencia and await our 9:45 tour to Xativa, a medieval town about an hour from Valencia that was home to the Borgias and 2 popes.  Our tour guide was a hoot – he was hysterically, ironically funny and so smart. He knew so much history – much of which he imparted to us with his humorous way, as in one of the popes was “not a nice guy,” which gave the Borgias a bad name and, according to our guide, were “sort of like the Kennedy’s” to Xativa. Oh, and he was a total food snob. Oh God. Priceless.  From the very beginning, we knew this was going to be a great day.

Heading out of the city, past all the orange orchards, we learn that Valencia started out as a trading center, then an agricultural hub, and now, of course, tourism is the #1 income producer. The Egyptians brought the orange crop here for the smell, not for eating, as well as Mulberry trees used to make silk. In the 1800s they got rid of all mulberries and planted more orange groves, transitioning to oranges for eating.

The farmers used to be the rich here, but they are aging out, a dying breed, because there is no future in farming.  Prices are falling due to competition with developing countries; the European farmers just can’t compete. But, because the land is so fertile, farmers can get up to 6 harvests a year.  Meaning there is a huge surplus of oranges that farmers give away for free rather than sell at a loss. Crazy.

Arriving in Xativa, we abandon our bus for a walking tour through the town, beginning in the Jardin del Bes (literally Garden of the Kiss – why?  Don’t know) which has lots of historical Arabic features, including fountains and aqueducts and a pool for clothes washing.  Xativa is blessed with over 900 springs and 3 times more ground water than surface water, making the aqueducts still viable today – and spawning tons of different fountains all across the city. 

Commencing our city walk, we pass fortified walls, churches – where the bells are still played by hand – Alexandre place (my square!) where one of the popes was born. Past the now ubiquitous fountains, lots of incredibly decorated doors and intriguing doorknockers. 

Past pastry stores with delectable selections (can we stop, please?), into an old pharmacy and then onto a square where there is a memorial to all the Jews who were deported to the Nazi camps during WWII. 

From there we enter a small museum filled with fun art, including the portrait of King Felip V, placed upside down by the museum’s curator in 1940 in protest of the King ordering Xativa be destroyed during the War of Spanish Succession.

Then it was up the hill (talk about a work out!) to the Castle of Xativa – with incredible views (you can see why they built the place up here).  Dating back to the Roman and Iberian times, the fortress began as Hannibal’s, as he unleashed his war against Rome and is where his wife gave birth to his son.  We wandered all over – through the plaza Armas with, of course, fountains.

Up into the Castel Menor – where Hannibal’s wife allegedly lived. And where there are amazing views across the countryside.

Back down to the Plaza and then up again to the Castell Major, built in medieval times, with its ramparts, chapel, prison cells (where we took turns taking photos of our “imprisonment”) and then where the jail cells. Ed chose not to join us on this steep climb (smart guy!) – he stayed down by the ramparts taking more gorgeous long shots across the town of Xativa and the countryside. 

A totally stupendous visit – and well worth the strenuous climb.  Now we can be rewarded with our lunch….at a hotel that was once a monastery. Fantastic!  A wonderful meal of Iberian ham to start, a prawn in a corn crème, mushroom croquettas, a tomato salad and paella as our main. We thought everything was great – although, not so our guide – remember – food snob!  When the paella was served he deemed the rice only ok.  That meant the paella was only ok because the rice was only ok. It would have been hysterical if he weren’t so dead serious.  Thus began a discussion on all the different rice types, etc.  With the final pronouncement that this rice was not the top.  Little did we know!  We finished off the meal with an excellent Lime sorbet with mango.  Yummy.

Back on the bus, we began our return journey to the ship, stopping at the City of Arts and Sciences for some photos.  This place never ceases to be amazing.

Then it was back aboard our lovely Journey, where we freshened up, hit dinner then actually went to the Captain’s Welcome aboard show before heading to the cabin for the evening.

Talk about a totally fun day – rice dissection included!