Once again, we are lucking out with the weather, as another beautiful sunrise greets us as we head to the gym, then get ready to begin our overnight adventure to Lucca.  We are docked at the city pier today – the good pier – where you can walk right into town.  Liberty Rental is still a 30-minute walk away though, so we message them to tell them we are here and dutifully wait at the end of the pier, by the roundabout entrance.  It takes a while for them to come and get us, but eventually the same sweet guy with the girlfriend in the Phillipines comes and picks us up, exclaiming over the fact that we remember him from 3 years ago!  Of course we do – how could we not?

At the office, Eva, our rental-agent friend for over 10 years now greets us and chats with us while our paperwork is completed, then gives us the nickel tour of the garage which houses 10 or so vintage cars.  Why?  Not sure, but hey, they are fun to look at.  Then it is out the door to our little car, and off into the Tuscan countryside to explore some castles before heading to Lucca for lunch and our apartment for the night.

A short 60 minutes later, we arrive at our destination, Monte Carlo – not to be confused with the Monte-Carlo in Monaco.  This Monte Carlo was built in 1333 for the reidents of another community that was destroyed by the Florentines.  The village was named in honor of Prince Charles who liberated Lucca from Pisan occupation – thus “Carlo” and “Monte” because of the location up on the top of the hill.  A strategic location, due to its location on the highest point of the Cerruglio hill, the old fortress we will be visiting was the site of numerous battles between the cities in Tuscany.  Rebuilt, expanded and renovated over time, the Fortezza became private property in 1775 when the Grand Duke of Tuscany decided its military purpose was finished and sold it.  Still a private residence today, the current owners purchased the property in 1905 and live there today while working to keep the Fortezza in its original condition and opening certain areas to the public a few hours a day.

We are a few minutes too early for entrance, and the sweet lady at the gate tells us to go have a coffee at the one café open in the little town while we wait. Instead, we wander around a bit, taking in the architecture and the cute narrow little cobblestone streets of the town up here on the hill.

Returning to the Fortezza, we wander through the new Italian garden (from the 20^th century, no less), then enter further into the castle through hallways to the courtyard of the old fortress with the open-air oven and cistern used for cooking.  Then into the dungeon/prison at the far end of the complex.  

Traversing back through the grounds, through more open squares, we reach the original 14^th century wooden entry door with another small door in the bottom used to prevent armed invaders.  The little door could be opened but was too small to allow weapons carried by soldiers to enter.   Past the door we head up to the Torre di Cosimo I dei Medici, where we climb the winding staircase, each step with a different height designed to slow down the enemy.  

Climbing all the way up this “new” tower (new, as in built in the 1500s), you can see why this was such an important fortress – a 360-degree view all across the region.   Not to mention beautiful views down the main street of Monte Carlo as well as wide angle perspectives on the Fortezza itself.

Then we walk along the ramparts with the 5 “murder-holes” that allowed soldiers to protect the main entrance of the fortress from above.  Here we enter into the rooms used by the soldiers in charge of defending this side of the fortress – with displays of items that might have been here during the period.

Really great place – and can you imagine living here?  How incredible must it be to live in a medieval castle at the top of this “Rocca” with the cute little town laide out at your doorstep.  Something to dream about!

Bidding our goodbyes to the sweet doorkeeper, we wander through town, looking at all the beautiful painted wine barrels.  Obviously a town known for its wine – and its artwork. 

Winding up our walk at the end of the town, enjoying the vistas even from the low street level, we head back to our car, strategically mapping out how we have to drive to leave the village – we definitely do not want to take a wrong turn and end up on one of these teeny narrow cobblestone lanes – we successfully navigate our way back toward Lucca in search of lunch.

There was an olive oil and wine shop at the bottom of the Rocca di Monte Carlo, as well as an associated restaurant, but the shop looked like it was closed or under construction, and the we could never ascertain if the restaurant was open or not.  So, we decided to cut our losses and just go onto Lucca, park and have lunch inside the walls.  Which worked fine, except for the fact that I got turned around trying to find the parking lot we always use, instead getting us messed up inside the walls, dodging the remains of ComicCon (which fortunately ended the previous weekend) and eventually managing to drive out and find a pay lot – that was free today for some reason – depositing the car there and walking inside the walls.

No harm, no foul, just aggravation, which was soon washed away with a good hearty meal at Itaco Pizzeria.  Oh geez, and talk about hearty!  I had a calzone, a Puccini, filled with mushrooms and ham; Ed went with a Pizza Giglio, with spicy sausage.  We knew the pizza would be a personal, i.e., 8-10”, pizza – that’s the norm.  But the calzone? Figured it would be small, hand sized. OMG. Nope.  That calzone was the size of a large pizza folded over – and stuffed to the gills with ham, mushrooms and cheese.  So, so good, but so, so filling – and we have reservations for dinner tonight at 7.  Yikes.

Wandering a bit after lunch to walk off those carbs, we eventually get back to the car and head to the apartment where our hosts have sweetly let us check in early at 2:30.  The apartment is located about a 10 minute walk from the walls, with a gated parking lot, making it perfect for our stay here.  No noise, no crowds, just residential – it is actually right next to a school.  And equipped so nicely – great artwork, a red kitchen!, and a nice little patio with table and chairs where we can sit and have beverages in the fresh air. 

After organizing a bit, we walk down the street to the supermarket for supplies, snagging some fabulous taralli (of which I now wish I had bought more), beer, wine and snacks – we’re set for the evening.  A little past 6:30, we head off into town to Osteria Bastion Contrario, an adorable restaurant with the quirkiest décor ever.  I can’t even explain it.  Antiques and collectibles and photos and huge framed blow ups of old Lire and the cutest metal wine bottle holders, all in the shape of chef’s with various utensils.  An assault to the senses – a fun assault, but an assault no less.

We have the primo table, a little round table in the corner just as you walk in by the window, right next to the huge gourd we are assuming is there to celebrate fall, or horrors, Halloween. Whatever it is, it is fun and quirky and the meal is totally enjoyable:  a starter of mixed regional meats, Tagliatelle al Ragu di Cinghiale (wild boar, of course!) for Ed and a regional specialty, Tordelli con Pomodoro, Pecorino e Ricotta Salata (basically round ravioli’s stuffed with meat and an excellent tomato sauce with shaved ricotta and pecorino on top).  Yummy.

Plus, a huge bonus, we had a 50% off deal by booking our reservation through one of the food apps here.  Made an excellent meal even better!  Walking home through the chilly empty streets revives us from our carb stupor, arriving at the apartment refreshed and ready for a nice evening on our own, on land, here in Lucca.