It has been almost 20 years since we last visited Hydra – and spent two wonderful (if not creepy, we were the only guests and they locked us in at night – Shades of The Shining anyone?) nights here in the Ippokampus hotel.  Today we are on an early ferry over to one of our favorite islands to explore, and this time follow in the footsteps of Leonard Cohen!  Who knew? Well, Ed knew of course, being an avid Leonard Cohen fan, that he spent many years here on the island and wrote many of his famous songs here. There is even a bench dedicated to him on the path to Kamini – where we plan to go.

The ferry ride is smooth (thank you Neptune) and we arrive just in time to grab a coffee and watch the festivities in celebration of Ohi Day, or “No” Day, the commemoration of the day that Metaxas turned down the ultimatum Mussolini made to occupy specific locations in Greece during the war.  Allegedly, Metaxas responded with the single word, no,’ thus, the holiday to celebrate unity and the importance of national sovereignty and resistance.  There are military bands parading along the harbor as we sip our coffee and when we start walking toward the main town, older kids and then younger children parading down the streets.  

After that excitement we start our Kamini coastal path walk with a detour to climb up to the Greek flag.  First through some of the town streets on the harborfront, spying a great bakery where we succumb to one of the best Tiropita we’ve had. And a huge one at that!  We can’t finish it all, so I dutifully wrap it all up in a plastic bag (yes, I carry zip lock bags with me – would you expect otherwise?) and head off to try to find the path up to the top of the hill for what is said to be an incredible 360 view over this side of the island.

Following the directions we found on the web, we think we find the steps at the corner of the harbor that are mentioned, but they are closed off with a locked gate. Continuing on around the end of the harbor in the direction of Kamini, we find do at least find the old windmill and the statue of a boy riding a dolphin that commemorates the Sophia Loren film from 1956 of the same name. 

From here, we find another path that branches off up the hill.  Hoping this might bring us up to the flag, we head up that way, passing the beautiful Church of Saint Georgios – with the free running horses around the back – and then onto ruins of what we think is a monastery.  Or maybe just an old house?  Don’t know, but unfortunately, while it is incredible cool and makes for great photos, and we can see the damn flag up the hill behind the ruins, the path here is also blocked off with random stones and boulders.  Bummer. 

Retracing our steps, we head back to the main path and onto the Kamini path, all the while just enjoying the magnificent views, and the magnificent day – beautiful, sunny with a lovely breeze.  Finding another path that looks like it might head up to the flag, we take it, finding more great views, more wonderful, whitewashed houses and fabulous views out to the little Saint Nikolaos Holy Chapel perched all alone out on a scrubby rock island off the coast.  Beautiful.  But that damn flag defeats us!  We can see it up there on the hill, but not anyway to get up there.  Even though there are clearly people there – we are thwarted in our quest to achieve the summit.  Darn.

We take solace in the fact that we still have other exploring to do, setting off once again to Kamini, passing the aforementioned Leonard Cohen bench (at the moment occupied by other Leonard Cohen aficionados – or maybe just resting walkers), weaving our way through little village streets before finally arriving at the sweet little harbor and rocky beach. 

It is too early for lunch – by far, it isn’t even 11:30 – but there is a lovely looking restaurant here, Kodylenia’s, that opens at noon, so we just continue on the seaside path toward Vlychos, another village about 20 minutes away.  It is a lovely walk – perfect for us to stretch our legs after yesterday’s lack of activity – and while we don’t make it all the way to Vlychos, we do enjoy the 30 minutes or so of sun, breeze and of course tremendous vistas inland and offshore.

We make it back to Kodylenia’s right at noon, the first customers there (of course!).  Seated at a lovely corner patio table, overlooking the water, we feast on some excellent cheese croquettas, tender grilled Pulvo for Ed and Shrimp Saganaki for me.  All excellent and wonderful for our first sit down Greek meal. 

Sated from our lunch feast, we head back into Hydra town, this time getting our turn on the Leonard Cohen bench, enjoying the sun and the sea….and the cats. Of course the cats!

Following our maps and directions, we wind our way through the narrow cobblestone streets of Hydra town to find the house where Leonard Cohen lived, still owned by his son today.  A pretty little whitewashed house on a quiet street (but what streets aren’t quiet out here?) covered in the ubiquitous creeping bougainvillea trees/bushes that are all over these Grecian islands. 

Still with plenty of time before our return ferry, we meander through more narrow lanes, gazing at the iconic island architecture and flora, passing random mules (the main source of transportation on the island) until we final reach the blue doored Australia house, nicknamed for its occupants at the time, the Australian writers Charmian Clift and George Johnson, who Cohen stayed with – using the upstairs terrace as his writing place – when he first arrived on the island.

Scheduled touring complete, now we are just wandering – eventually finding our previous accommodations, the Ippokampos, still open and operating.  Maybe one day we will come back to stay a few days.  Back down on the marina, we stop at the Cool Mule (love the name!) for coffees – hot for Ed, iced with whipped cream (might as well just call it a coffee milkshake) for me.  Yummy. 

Continuing our explorations, we try to visit the history museum, but they are closing for the afternoon break, so we just continue around the harbor and out the coastal path toward Mandraki, passing old battlements and the DESTE Foundation Slaughterhouse project.  DESTE is an international non-profit foundation for Contemporary Arts to which Hydra granted this old Slaughterhouse building.  The Foundation has renovated and restored the building, keeping many of its old features, and since 2009, holds art exhibits here each summer featuring a single artist.  A sign of their restoration is the huge copper Sun mounted on the top of the building, which moves along with the actual sun. 

With an hour or so left before our ferry, we walk back into town, passing the only motor vehicles on the island – the fire and rescue vehicles – and randomly walk down the little lanes until we stumble upon Break Time, the absolute perfect place to take a break and have an afternoon beverage.  Tables on the cobblestone lane, local islanders lolling about, we have a wonderful time sipping great, inexpensive beer and wine while watching life – and donkeys – flow on around us.

All too soon, we are back to the harbor and boarding our ferry for the ride home.  The island hasn’t really changed all that much in 20 years.  Maybe more people, more visitors, but it still retains that sleepy, quiet Greek island vibe. Definitely on our list to return for a few days so we can re-explore the entire island. 

The ferry is smooth and easy.  The walk back to the apartment a nice way to stretch our legs after the relaxing ride.  Home and situation, we have a dinner of leftovers – tiropita and gyro sandwiches – on the patio, where we spend most of the rest of the evening staring out over the twinkling lights of the Zeas Marina.