Onto the Local Museum, which is another fascinating historical visit, this time through Nuuk’s history.  Nuk, the Greenlandic word for “cape,” was founded in 1728 by Hans Egede when he moved from another area of Greenland.  Five years later, a Lutheran Congregation arrived, establishing themselves and carrying out their missionary activities.  They leave in 1900 and the city remains relatively untouched by world events until 1939.  There are great old photos and documenting the timeline of the town – from the early days, the 30’s, the 40’s, the 50’s, the 70’s – you can see the progression as the city grows. Still, today, Nuuk has the highest percentage of aboriginal people of any city: almost 90% of Greenland’s population of 58,000 is Inuit, and at least eight in 10 live in urban settlements. Nuuk also celebrates Inuit culture and history to an extent that is unprecedented in many cities with higher total aboriginal populations.

There is an entire wall dedicated to the massive residential block called Blok P.  Construction of the concrete monster began in 1965, eventually creating 320 apartments in a 5 story high building, 64 apartments on each floor.  It was the largest residential building in all of Greenland and was it was said that it housed 1% of the total population of the entire island of Greenland.  The building was built as part of the Danish Parliament Folketing program focused on modernizing and urbanizing Greenland’s infrastructure by moving people away from coastal settlements to give them better housing conditions and equal educational conditions for the children.  The government did indeed move settlements of hunters and fishermen into the building with modern conveniences, but at the same time this form of housing was very different from their village lifestyles and it was hard to adapt.

The building was not designed for the Innuit lifestyle, the residents finding the narrow doorways hard to enter and exit wearing thick cold weather clothing.  The wardrobes were too small to hold their fishing gear, which was then stored in hallways and stairwells, blocking fire exits and creating security hazards. During the first few years, there were also problems with drains and drainlines being clogged with coagulated blood.  There was no appropriate place for the fishermen to clean their catch, so they did so in their bathtubs!

Ultimately, the “experiment” in exporting the Welfare of Denmark to Greenland failed.  The building was looked upon unfavorably by the local population who viewed it as an extension of Denmark’s colonial influence and power.  Plans were finally put into place by the Greenlandic Home Rule and Nuuk City Council to demolish the building in 2012 with most of the residents moved to another community in Qinngorput on the other side of Malene Bay. 

There was even a movie all about the residents of the building and the demolition, sadly only in Kalaallisut, the local Greenlandic language, with subtitles in Danish.  Couldn’t get Google Translate or the Samsung app to work, so we didn’t stay in there long, but it was cool to see the building and the demolition going on.  The next room had memorabilia from the years, obviously donated by local residents.  Dolls, books, furniture, even a whole room set up as it would have been in a typical Greenlandic home.  Cute little museum – and well worth the entry fee.

On our way out, we stop in the little art gallery, where they apparently have hands on demonstrations and classes.  On display though was a great Polar bear series painted in acrylic by a local artist, Camilla Numand Petersen – born and raised in Nuuk, a practicing Psychologist, who is a self-taught painter.  They are just stunning.

Museums done, we meander our way back into town, past Hans Egede, up the long hill and staircase to the town level, snapping pictures of the cool apartment complex with the bird murals that delineate each building.  The artwork here is just fabulous.

We head toward the Katuaq Cultural Center, but decide not the pay the fairly exorbitant entrance fee.  As we are leaving, we meet up with a woman we met on our Qaqortoq walking tour, who decides the same about the Cultural Center. Instead, we give her directions on how to get down to the waterfront and she gives us the recommendation to visit the glass souvenir shop up the road – which was wonderful, the artwork there was incredible and we wanted so many of the pieces!  Polar bear plates!  But – nope – not happening.  A) we don’t want anymore “stuff,” we have way too much of it as it is, and B) we ain’t spending that kind of dough.  Seriously.  But very pretty.

After our not-shopping visit, we decide to make the trek back to the ship instead of the shuttle. It is turning out to be a beautiful day, warming up quite nicely and the walk is virtually all down hill.  Good decision on a pretty day.

Back aboard, we hang out on the balcony in the sun – it is now officially gorgeous and very warm – catching a sun halo!  Cool.  And watching the planes land at the airport carved into the valley just beyond us. 

Then it is more beautiful fjord views as we sail out of Nuuk on our way back to North America. The vistas keep us captivated for hours.

Afternoon gym, drinks, then dinner in Aqualina tonight where we have a beautiful window table to continue to watch the gorgeous scenery – and Tetiana to serve us.  We’ve sailed with her previously, just where and when we can’t recall (and bad girl that I can be, I don’t have her in my notes).  After a wonderful dinner, it is to the Living Room for drinks then down to the cabin for my Dramamine – it is going to get choppy tomorrow due to a storm – and a night of TV and snoozing.