5/24 – Reggia Caserta Teatro di Courte and the Royal gardens

Now onto more explorations.  After a quick bathroom stop, we stumble upon the theatre, which is not well marked, but we peeked in a doorway where some men were coming out and one asked if we were looking for the theatre – Grazie!  Inside we are put with a small group of Italians as we listen to an Italian Touring Club docent explain the theater.  Of course we don’t understand a word, but there is another Palace employee who tells us we have to stay with the group, and explains that there is a modern art exhibit here as well, an artist has covered the floor of the theatre with oil and water, causing it to reflect the entire theatre.  Well cool.

Inside the theatre is amazing.  It is based on the San Carlo Theatre in Naples, but is inserted into the Palace – it almost seems like just another room from the entrance we use.  Four stories filled with boxes, decorated with the typical marble and gold found in the palace proper, it is said to have amazing acoustics and nary a bad sight line.  It is really gorgeous – and the oil and water on the floor has the most amazing effect!  You can’t really tell if you are looking down into a vast 2nd part of the theatre, or a reflection.  Really great effect.

It’s a fast visit, snap and go, and once again we are outside heading toward the gardens.  There are English Gardens somewhere here, but we’re not sure exactly where, or how to get there. We had asked when we first arrived and they told us there was a shuttle outside the back of the palace, which we find. But we’re a little confused as to where it takes us.  Buying the tickets anyway (it only cost 2 Euro 50 each) we hop aboard and end up being driven all the way out to the end of the gardens where the waterfall is located – almost 3km from the Palace!  And mostly uphill.  Good decision!

We are let out at the base of the waterfall – which at one point must have been open to walk up to view but is closed now – in front of the Fountain of Diana and Actaeon (Actaeon is the deer, Diana transformed him into a deer after he surprised her while she was indisposed, so to speak, and he is then mauled by his own hounds). 

From here we can look back down toward the palace, across the 10,000 acres of parkland with 6 fountains and over 60 statues.  The sheer size is amazing – and all from one man’s (Luigi Vanvitelli) imagination and creativity.  Not only is it amazingly beautiful, it is also brilliant.  The pipes that supply water for the park, the palace and the San Leucio silk factory begin here at the fountain.  Art and functionality at its best.

We actually find the English Gardens up here, and wander through for a bit, heading up hill to discover replicas of an Egyptian pyramid, a Roman style ampitheater and different statuary. 

This part of the garden is large as well, with tons of different features we really wanted to see, but as we continue to explore we descending towards the palace.  Since we weren’t sure if we could exit through the gardens at the bottom, we decide to reverse course and go back through the main part of the park to walk back to the palace.   Rather that then going all the way down hill to have to trek all the way back up again.

Plus in this way, we’ll be able to see all the different fountains and statues.  And the incredible long shots down the park and to the Palace all along the way.  And walk and see we did.  Just amazing.  First the Fountains of Venus and Adonis.

Then the Fountains of Ceres – behind some fencing – obviously a lot of renovation/repair work going on.

Next the Fountains of Aeolus, a huge structure that looks like a bridge lined with statuary, with a pond type basin below it.  There are actually caves underneath the bridge-like structure that have stalactites and what is described as “pseudo-natural” seating!  We didn’t go inside – don’t even know if you could, and don’t particularly want to, to be honest!

As we made our way down the sloping walkway, we noticed a group standing around looking at something in the grass.  Of course we have to stop too.  It’s a little Hedgehog!  Oh, so cute.  But we think something is wrong with him. He sort of creeps a couple of steps, then hunkers down.  Cute, but aw, hope he’s ok.

And then the last of the fountains, the Fountain of Dolphins – a massive structure depicting sea monsters with water flowing from their mouths.  Part of the beauty of this fountain is that the water here is channeled from the aqueduct that starts way up the hill by the Fountain of Diana, showing how inseparable the water, greenery and architecture of the park are.  

The remaining walk is lovely, with gardens and flowers and of course, the ever amazing long view to the Palace.

We’ve walked our legs off this morning!  It’s a little before noon and we’ve been walking since 7:45a with very little sitting!  Phew!  We make a decision to just head back to the apartment with a stop at the Conad for an antipasti lunch.  Perfect solution. We don’t need much and we can sit in peace and quiet, with our own wine and beer, and eat exactly what we want.  Done Deal.

The rest of the afternoon is spent repacking our suitcases for the flights home. 

Dinner tonight at Pizzeria del Corso, just a few minutes from the apartment. Tonight we are having pizza, and pizza only. Traditional Neapolitan pizza, pomodoro and all.  We arrive at the restaurant to find a line about 5 people deep for take out.  We ask for a table, and are shown to the back of the restaurant, where they have to turn the lights on for us!  And then we get Table 2!  Yes!  Azamara look out!  We have our table back!  Too funny.

And even funnier, we are the only people in the restaurant part.  The take out section? Oh my!  Never less than 5 people in line waiting for pizza to take home. In retrospective, we could have done that. We have beer and wine. But then what fun would that be – without Table 2?  Anyhow, the pizzas come out more quickly than you’d expect and are fabulous.  Ed gets Salsiccia – sausage – and I get Capricciosa, which has ham, mushrooms, artichokes and olives.  Perfection.  And oh so much!  Sharing pizzas here is not allowed.  Well, ok, you can do it, like we did last night with starters, but ordering just 1 pizza to share. Oh no.  Totally frowned upon. Thus. Gluttony.  We are both so stuffed, but it is oh so good. And a perfect last night in Italia feast. 

We happily walk home, watch our Bosch shows, then hit the sack, for our long travel day tomorrow.  (PS – there more fireworks tonight that once again I sleep through, but Ed does not!  Must be the pizza…..) 

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