5/21 – Lecce afternoon street scenes and Museo Sigismondo Castomediano

During our quick rest stop at the house, we had mapped out a route to the Palazzo Turrisi Palumbo which we had read was a gorgeous example of Gothic architecture as well as a venue for art exhibitions.   While the streets in the main piazzas are getting busy with tours, most of the other lanes and narrow roads we wander through are blissfully quiet and empty.  The architecture is just stunning.  So much to see and so many photo taking opportunities.

Unfortunately, the Palazzo is closed when we arrive. The hours are odd, opening tomorrow in the morning and then again at 3:30 – but not this afternoon.  Figuring we’ll come back tomorrow, we head off into the “new city” to visit the Archeology museum – Museo Sigismondo Castomediano.

This place is great – and not to mention free.  Displays of 1st C pottery, wine and olive oil vessels from different shipwrecks across the region and centuries, meaning 2C BC to 2 C AD.  Ancient Egyptian vases and pottery found in the Salento caves. Two aquarium tanks filled with fish and archeological finds, a representation of the relationship between humans and nature. Really well thought out.

All throughout the museum, they are installing a temporary exhibition of very modern works juxtaposed against the ancient relics held in their showcases. Modern mosaics in between Egyptian pottery.  A huge mosaic vase in the lobby area.  A two sided mosaic panel depicting a nature scene on one side, a dystopian Wizard of Oz scene with Dorothy and an alien (or robot) on the other in the center of the room that holds a huge religious iconograph depicting saints.  Very well done.

Not to mention the “glass man” outside in the central courtyard. A permanent exhibition of the artist Nicola Gosa, who has apparently done these glass sculptures all over Italy – as we find out when we leave the museum from posters promoting his work on the walls surrounding the building.  We now need to add these sculptures to our list of things to see when we visit Italy next.

More stunning architecture greets us on the walk home.  Not to mention inside the house as well!  The decorations in here are just fabulous – as is the rooftop patio which we make use of as the afternoon sun starts its slow descent into evening.

Tonight we are dining at Alibi, another restaurant on the Piazetta that Luigia suggests.  It is a cute, quirky place – packed.  We made a booking so we get a great table in a little trellis seat.  Cute.  As always we order way too much food – but we can’t resist he Apertivio Salentino with all the typical Salento dishes – puccia (the local sandwich), bruschetta, friselle, mini pizza, pittule.  Tons of food, but oh so good.  For our mains I fortunately have a small dish of tonno rosso (excellent seared tuna), while Ed goes with the Polpo Alla Pignata – octopus with tomatoes.   Excellent meal – even if we are stuffed at the end!

Then it is a lovely walk back for an evening in our stunning Lecce home.  Tomorrow, a full day of Lecce exploring.

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