The day dawns bright and sunny, off we go for our morning exercise. There is a park/garden very near us, which, on the map, looks like a good place to walk and wander this morning. Unfortunately, upon arrival, we find it is a slightly small, round grassy area, surrounding by a walking/biking track, but that is currently closed for renovation work. Well, bummer. We still walk around the perimeter a bit, then wander down toward the Parco Urbano di Fontescodella – an urban forest with lots of great walking trails, also unfortunately closed for renovations. Well, pooh. At least we got some beautiful shots of the snow covered mountains.
Eventually we just take a couple of turns around the walking track, then head back to the apartment to freshen up for our explorations. First stop: The Sferisterio,all the way across town (a whopping 17 minute walk). Built at the request of a group of citizens of in Macerata “to embellish the town and for public amusement” in 1829 it is one of the biggest open-air theaters in Italy. Originally designed to host the Palla al Barcciale, one of the oldest games in Italy. Similar to tennis, the Palla, or “Ball and Bracelet” as it is also known, involved hitting a ball back and forth across a court using a weird wooden “bracelet” with spikes that was worn on the forearm. Over the years, though, the game’s popularity declined in favor of soccer or actual tennis, and the arena was used for many other disparate functions: military parades, political meetings, festivals, circuses, bullfights. But in 1921 an opera – Aida – was staged here for the first time. The incredible acoustics and visibility led the Sferisterio to become one of Italy’s main opera theaters – not to mention performance stage for all sorts of international musicians and singers. (In a bizarre twist of “small world,” Gaby and Sigis are coming here in August for the Opera Festival held here every year!)
Unfortunately, due to the staging of an upcoming event, we can only visit a small portion of the arena. But, first there is a wonderfully informative multi-media presentation (photos of which we have taken here to give you an idea of the location and performances), then out into one of the boxes for a view of the 2500-seat capacity open air arena with 56 Doric columns and stone balusters. It would be amazing to see a concert here – especially from a box!
Outside, in the loggia surrounding the arena are all sorts of plaques dedicated to different operas held here, artists who have performed here and of course the plaque that holds the epigraph about the 100 Macerata citizens who requested the arena be built.
Back out on the street, we walk around the traffic circle for better photos of the Sferisterio’s exterior, and the adjacent Porta Mercato gate …
… before delving deeper into the old town, enjoying the architecture along the way to the Palazzo Buonaccorsi, which has been converted into a series of art galleries and museums.
Built in the 18th C as a residence for the family of Count Simone Buonaccorsi, the Palazzo is a series of existing older buildings incorporated together. The exterior is rather non-descript, but with a fabulous Italianate garden with blusters and statues of Hercules. Interspersed throughout the different wings and rooms are the galleries and exhibits.
We begin in the basement with the Museo della Carrozza, the Carriage Museum. This is a collection of 24 carriages owned by the Count, originally scheduled to be burned when he died. A close friend suggested he donate the carriages to Macerata for a municipal museum – thus the creation of this amazing display. Everything from a late 18thC “sedan chair” to a hand-carried stretcher to more modern prototype of the first motorcoach is displayed along a winding path through the basement. There is also a display of luggage – and an explanation of how it had to be in pre-determined shapes to fit inside the carriage – as well as other accoutrements that would be found in the carriages of the day. Really interesting.
As is the Paper Carriage exhibit, a “participatory artistic installation” of huge, full size, paper recreations of horses and carriages that was created by University and High School students. A short video shows the process, and the installation, which included a parade of the paper carriages through the streets of Macerata. Nice.
Back upstairs, we head all the way up to the top floor for the modern art collection, which is a very interesting juxtaposition of modern art against the background of old classics. It is a little confusing and jarring, but nonetheless interesting. Modern metal art beneath a domed frescoed ceiling. An odd steel/iron cage, called “caged environment”, filled with strange items placed near windows where we can see the gorgeous patio/garden and surrounding countryside. And frescoes, frescoes everywhere.
Another room holds classic portrait style paintings, along with small little portraits inside metal frames attached to tripod stands with a metal pit bull looking dog guarding a skull sitting in the midst of them. Strange? Yes. Oddly interesting? Definitely.
And so it went – the weirdly modern, the gorgeous palace design of room after room with polished wooden door frames, more frescoes and period furniture.
Stopping quickly on the first floor for the Ancient art gallery, we make short work of those displays, then make our exit back out onto the old town streets. It’s lunch time, and we are in very near the Piazza della Liberta, the main square of the town where the Torre Civica is located (and our afternoon excursion). That being said, we had spied the perfect lunch place on our reconnaissance yesterday: Porchetteria Centrale. Oh yeah! This may be our last chance at Porchetta and we are not blowing it. Essentially a little deli style restaurant, we order from the counter inside, opting for a traditional Panini and a Crescia (the traditional type of bread here in Umbria and Marche), then take our beer and wine (yes, that plastic cup full of liquid is my wine!) outside to a lovely, shaded table across from the tower to watch the goings on around the Central square. Perfect!
Andiamo 