5/17 – Orvieto to Macerata

And we’re off on our Loop drive through Italy.  Retrieving the car, we navigate back through Orvieto to our house, pick up our luggage, and head west toward Macerata, stopping quickly at Lidl for supplies for the picnic lunch we have planned today.  It’s an easy drive out west, through hills, past rivers and lakes and Todi, up on the hill.  Not too many crazy drivers today, although we do encounter some really souped up Vespa scooters. They are motoring!  And passing us like crazy. At one of the construction stops, they all catch up to each other – there must be 10 or more, then they scoot off when the lights turn green, heading up to Todi, leaving us pretty much alone on the road.

Because it is such a quick drive to Macerata, we planned a stop at the Abbadia di Fiastra (Abbey of Chiaravalle of Fiastra), built in 1142, but whose grounds are now a 4500 acre nature reserve where we can hike.  Arriving was simple, finding trail and hiking information, not so much.  We had a basic map, which we tried to follow, but ended up just winging it and wandering all over.  Which was the best choice!  The scenery was amazing.  Poppy fields!  (I do adore poppy fields!)  Mountains out in the distance covered in snow!  Woods, paths, fields, Plane Trees. A lovely way to spend a few hours just stretching out our muscles. And as you can see from these pictures, hardly anyone about.  There were lots of cars in the parking lot, but we didn’t see hardly anyone on our meanderings.

Heading back to the car, we decided it was time to find a place to picnic with all our Lidl loot. We saw on the Abbadia map that there were picnic benches by a restaurant off the main road.  We hopped in our trusty Opel and headed that way, parking in the restaurant lot and scoping out the area.  The restaurant was to the right, and there was a little area that had picnic tables and benches off to the left where we decided to sit for our lunch.  Well, um, actually they were the restaurant’s picnic benches. A waiter came over to tell us we couldn’t be there, but he only spoke Italian and we played dumb.  Then another waitress who spoke English came over and told us we could stay – just this time. But we weren’t’ supposed to be there – for next time!  Oops.  Oh well – we are just continuing our streak of using restaurant furniture for our lunches (see our Villefranche entry!).

Lunch done and handled, we bustled off to Macerata, a quick 20-minute drive away. Navigating successfully through the outskirts of the old town (fortunately our apartment is not in the old city proper), we arrive at the designated address, matching the photos our host has sent us to the building.  Hmmm…. The outside of this place is totally sketchy! Buildings undergoing repair, closed down retail on the first floor, a weird glass enclosed stairwell we have been instructed to enter to reach the apartment one floor down.   Ok. Just bizarre.  But inside the apartment?  The place is brand new with a fabulous view across the valley.

Crazy. The front door looks like Harry Potter’s cupboard!  And the street level is just, well, run down at best!  But hey, when in Macerata!  The apartment is cozy, completely well-equipped and surprisingly quiet for its location. But still, I couldn’t resist doing a video showing how to enter into the place.  Too fun. 

After getting settled and organized, we take a quick jaunt around the old town, perusing the different restaurant choices for this evening.  This is a college town, with one of the oldest still functioning universities in Europe – founded in 1290.  Cool Vibe.  Plenty of students around, and plenty of food choices geared to students – like street food, take aways and cafes.  Works for us.  We decide to take a non-traditional approach to dinner tonight – making a booking at Panda Bao for 7pm.  Yep. Asian sounds really good right about now, a nice little change from all the pasta and antipasti we have consumed the last few days.

Returning to the apartment, we spend the rest of the afternoon alternating between staring at the gorgeous view through the windows, organizing and doing a quick load of laundry.  Take advantage while we can! 

Later, arriving at the restaurant at 7, we realize that the place doesn’t open until 7:30!  We have no idea why they let us book a table 7!  Too funny. So we just sit there, watching the staff setting up the rest of the small room, while we snack on spicy/sweet peanuts and sip on our drinks. At least we have snacks and drinks! Gotta love it.

The meal was perfect – just what we needed and wanted.  We shared gyoza, which they call “ravioli,” a Shumai like dumpling in black pasta, put together in a very interesting shape – it looks like Darth Vader!  Also a “spring roll” with shrimp that turned out to be a huge shrimp in a spring roll wrapper and fried to perfection.  Ed also decided he had to have his favorite Ramen.  Perfection. 

Back at the apartment, we just relax by the windows, watching the changing light and sunset descend upon us.  Tomorrow – we fully explore Macerata old town.

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.