Done with our Duomo tour, it is high time for lunch. Easy! We just stay on the Piazza Duomo and go to Hescanas, grabbing a perfect table in the sun looking out at the Duomo. Pizza for the Rageths, antipasti with Porchetta and a Porchetta panini with cheese for us, plus beer and wine in the sun with excellent company. Who could want more?







After lunch, on our way to the Pozzo di San Patrizio, we stop by Trattoria Moro di Aronne to make reservations for this evening – we’re not taking any chances, especially on a Friday night! Then it’s onto the other side of town, by the funicular for our next exercise session: The climb down and up 240 some odd stairs of the Pozzo di San Patricio. Built in the1500s as a water supply for the town in case of siege, the Pozzo has a spiral staircase that leads us 175 feet down into the ground before climbing back up. Named after the legend of St. Patrick and the cave in which he retired to pray, the cave is illuminated with green lights every St. Patrick’s day. Today – it is only white light, but still a very nice little after lunch exercise – and a perfect excuse for tons more pictures and videos.




After a quick scenic rest at the San Patrizo viewpoint, we reverse course, back through the city on Corso Cavour, stopping for a picture opportunity at the “area pedonale” (Pedestrian area) sign that clearly indicates you can’t drive here if you aren’t a resident, police, handicapped or delivering to a commercial establishment. It is here that Sigis & Gaby drove on Wednesday after getting turned around and lost in the absolutely confusing Orvieto town roads while trying to find their Bed and Breakfast! Had to stop for the photo opp – couldn’t resist! Continuing the story: G&S ended up on Piazza Repubblica, called Francesca, their host, and she walked over to save them, driving their car back to the B&B, then taking it to the parking lot – and keeping the keys! Where is the car? Who is to know? Has Francesca sold it for the profits? Guess we’ll find out tomorrow when G&S check out of the room and ask for their vehicle back!





Back at the Duomo, we head to the Museo Etrusco Claudio Faina, an archeology museum housed in the Palazzo Faina – the home of the Faina family who started the collections – and the last stop on our Orvieto tour. Initially begun by Mauro in 1864 who was interested in coin collecting, acquiring over 3,000 coins as well as ancient vases received as a gift from Princess Maria Bonaparte, the collections were continued on by his nephew, Eugenio, who began to focus only on local excavations in Orvieto (many objects coming from the necropolis of Crocifisso del Tufo at the bottom of the hill leading to Orvieto). The collections were privately held until 1950 by Claudio Faina, descendant of Mauro and Eugenio. Now the collections, and the Palace, have been converted into a museum open to the public. Gaby, Ed and I start meandering through the lower level which now holds displays from the Civic Museum, focusing on the sacred areas of Etruscan times with carvings, statues and tombs.




As we ascend to the first floor, Sigis has decided he has seen enough artifacts and goes to sit on the stairs of the Duomo to watch the world go by, while the 3 of us gamely explore the rest of the museum. First we find the coin collection – which is truly amazing. The artistry and detail on these ancient coins is amazing.




We move into rooms with Chiusi vases and “Attic” style vases of the traditional black and red figures – very Egyptian-like. Then up to the top floor, passing down a hallway with excellent views of the Duomo…




…and into a section with incredible 7th & 6th C BC pottery using red clay fired in a in an atmosphere with carbon monoxide instead of oxygen to give it a deep gray/black almost steel look. Plus a section of Corinthian pottery showing the progression from black figure painting on light clay to the black on red that signified traditional technique. So interesting!




We finally called Uncle, leaving the Archeological Museum and reuniting with Sigis on the steps of the Duomo.



Agreeing to meet again in a few hours at our apartment for apéritifs, we headed off into town to the local Pam supermarket where I successfully purchased my Bigi Orvieto Classico (my favorite brand), then relaxed at the house for a while until Gaby and Sigis arrived. We spent a wonderful hour or so on the rooftop patio, snacking, toasting, reminiscing, and exchanging 20th anniversary gifts in the sunny yet cool evening.



We finished off the night with an excellent farewell dinner at Trattoria Moro di Aronne with antipasti, Amatriciana, Tagliatelle al Cinghiale (of course!) and Piccione alla ghiotta – I just had to have pigeon after our Underground tour! All was excellent and wonderful and perfect for our last night together here in Orvieto.







Walking each other back through the little lanes, we bid each other teary eyed farewells with hugs and kisses, promising to meet again soon. And you know we will! We are all confident our next trip together will be on the horizon soon.
Arriving back at our sweet little home, we prepare ourselves for our Italy tour loop, repacking our bags and organizing before falling asleep with wonderful Orvieto/Rageth 20th anniversary memories filling our heads.