A gorgeous sunrise greets us as we sail into Marseilles – our last port on this cruise.  Today we have yet another ship’s tour, figuring we are better off exploring two places we haven’t been – even if on a tour – than trying to figure out something to do in Marseilles, where we have explored extensively in 2017.  So, ship’s tour it is.  Normal morning routine – normal tour meet in the theater routine – we are out and on our way out of the port a little after 9am.  Not too shabby.

The bus ride takes about 90 minutes, during which we listened to Phillippe, our guide who gives us quite the history of this area – a long dissertation on the history of French popes, also war and maybe crusades? Don’t know, didn’t really listen. And quite frankly couldn’t really understand some things because of his accent (Think he might have made a joke about Trump and 3rd term but not sure) – plus after our hysterically fun Florence guide, this delivery was a tad boring.  Arriving in Avignon, Phillippe takes us on a walk into town.  A very slow walk.  First time ever the guide walked slower than the group! Plus he sort of shuffles his feet when he walks, sounding like a horse drawn carriage, which of course makes us start calling him clip-clop Phillippe. Phillippe has told us he is turning 64 tomorrow – that’s my age! – but he acts older than Moses. Terribly un-French-like!

Congregating in the Place de l’Horloge, Phillippe gives us our meeting time to return to the bus, then offers to take us on a walking tour of Avignon.  Um. No thank you. We want to have time to actually do something, and clip-clopping along isn’t our idea of a good time. So, we’re off on our own – snapping pictures of the city hall and theatre buildings before heading to the Palais de Papas – the Pope’s Palace – to tour the seat of the Christian world in the 14thC.  One of the biggest medieval Gothic Palaces in all of Europe, the Palace was the papal residence to 9 popes and 6 papal conclaves, ending with Benedict XIII.  Once a fortress and a palace, the over 160,000 sq ft of space, along with its architecture of strong crenellated walls, tall towers, support arches and ability to withstand heavy sieges make the building one of the most important in the world.

We can certainly agree with the architectural point of view, just walking around the exterior (which due to construction, you must do to get to the entrance) has us craning our necks in amazement as the huge structure literally towers over us.

Entering through the gardens (basically the back entrance) isn’t all that impressive. The gardens are also going through renovation, and really, they aren’t that picturesque.  But once inside the building, that all changes. 

We can visit 25 areas in the Palace ranging from chapels to the treasury to the Grand Audience hall to the state rooms and the Pope’s private apartments.  All huge and outfitted with various arches and domes and frescoes.

There is a museum type area that has examples of ancient doors and cupboard covers, as well as gargoyle waterspouts from the original Gothic roof. There is also a great display of 14thC pavement tiles that was uncovered in 1965. 

And a lovely cloister that is far more picturesque than the gardens in our minds.

Wandering through the vast domed Grand Tinel, used as the dining hall for official occasions, we get caught in a huge queue waiting to go into the Pope’s chambers.  A school group is in front of us, as well as another huge group in the chambers which bottlenecks at the single wooden staircase entryway.  We don’t have much time here, so we are debating whether to ditch this part of the visit when the masses start to move.  Following everyone into the chambers, we do a rapid speed tour, snapping pictures of the gorgeous frescoed walls and fireplace, as well as the North Sacristy where the Pope changed his vestments.

Fascinating as it all might be, it is way too peopley in here, and with only one way out – we don’t want to be stuck in here while the next group waddles their way down the staircase.  Doing an about face, we klep onto another school group and follow them out of the residences and all the way to the exit of the palace.  Perfect escorts!

On the streets once more, we wander a bit through town, snapping photos of random buildings and fun artwork painted in window openings.

Even though it is early, we still figure we better find a place for lunch before it is too busy and too late.  Deciding on La Sperlongaise on the Place de L’Horloge, we plop down at an atmospheric outside table to wait until the noon hour when the restaurant starts to serve lunch.  The waiter is adorable, joking around, on top of things, bringing us our drinks so we can wait comfortably until he can take our order of quiche of the day and Croque Monsieur – which on the menu is listed at Croque Mister.  Too funny!

Perfect lunch complete, we move on to our next destination – the Pont du Avignon – walking through the Place du Palace, past the Palace walls, and right next door the Cathedrale Notre Dame des Doms. 

Originally built of wood in the 12thC, destroyed in a siege, then rebuilt in stone with 22 arches that spanned the Rhone river connecting Avignon to Villeneuve-les-Avignon, the bridge was abandoned in the mid-17thC because the arches would collapse each time the Rhone flooded and it was extraordinarily expensive to maintain.  Today only 4 arches and the gatehouse of Pont d‘Avignon remain, making it look like the bridge to nowhere.  Although a very picturesque bridge to nowhere with views across the water on one end and across the old city on the other.

Surprisingly, there is hardly anyone here, making the visit out to the end of the bridge and into the Chapel of Saint Nicholas on the second pier delightful. 

Nearing our meeting time, we head back into town, wander a bit down the shopping street, stopping at Autrefois, a local artisanale sweets manufacturer where we bought some wonderful chocolate candies filled with all different sorts of ingredients – olive (they were green, but were actually chocolate covered almonds!), caramel, crème brulee. Plus an assortment of caramels for snacks later (on the bus, excellent little treats), then met the group on the Place and clip-clopped our way back to the bus.

An hour’s drive through farmland and vineyards, we arrive at Pont du Gard – the architectural masterpiece built by the Romans in 50 AD supply the city of Nimes with water.  The aqueduct has 3 stories, rising 165 feet as it spans the Gard river.  Totally beautiful. 

Phillippe clip-clops us out to the aqueduct, explaining its history along the way.  When he sets us free for our 45 minutes to explore, we ask him about the viewing area at the top of the aqueduct that our friends Lisa and Katie have just visited (as in 2 days ago – we are that close! But yet, so far!) and have texted us pictures.  We just wanted to make sure it was across the river and not up these steps near where he stopped the tour.  Sadly though, Phillippe doesn’t have a clue what we are talking about.  He says there is nothing across the river and points us up the stairs, where we find some views across the river and what would have been a cool trail to hike had we had the time, but not the viewpoints we were asking about.

Ok – we’re on our own – well, thankfully with Lisa’s helpful texts – as we cross the lower level aqueduct to the Rive Gauche and begin to climb the stone stairs on the left bank.

Where there are indeed incredible views across the aqueduct, down the river and through the trees (though not to Grandmother’s house) as well as out to what we presume to be Nimes in the distance.

Our return trip across the aqueduct is equally scenic – how can you not take pictures of a Roman technical and architectural marvel that is almost 2,000 years old? – and gives us time to visit the little museum, which is sort of boring, but has the bonus of a clean and totally uncrowded restroom.  Serendipity.

Back to the bus and a short, less than an hour, ride back to the port – during which we amuse ourselves by watching this amazing cloud formation over the farm fields.   

Before we know it, we are back on the ship, watching yet another gorgeous sail away as we head to Barcelona for disembarkation day.

Planning ahead this morning, when we saw the weather was going to be nice this evening, and not wanting to hassle with the dining room or buffet, we decided to have snacks for dinner, pre-ordering the “suite hors d’ourves” – tempura shrimps, prosciutto and smoked salmon and cream cheese.  So very good and so perfect on the balcony enjoying the coastal scenery as we sailed.

The rest of our evening was spent wandering through the shops trying to spend our last refundable credit.  The apparel is definitely not our style (ee gads) and the snacks are ridiculously overpriced, so we ended up spending a portion on a really sweet stuffed black bear for me (I love him so – just a huge, overgrown, soft and fluffy Sunny) and a big tip to the great bartender we see every night.  Cruise done!

Bags packed, out in the hall, Balcony and TV for the rest of the evening.  Ready for our land adventure and reunion with the Rageth’s tomorrow.