And we still have plenty of time left before we have to return to Civitavecchia. So, being us, we searched around and found another ghost town to visit: Antica Monterano, dating from Etruscan times, the structures we will see here were abandoned in the 18thC after a malaria outbreak and then an invasion by the French army. What is left are just ruins now, but supposedly something to see. Game on!
The drive to the road leading to Antica Monterano takes a little over an hour over hill and dale, through typical Italian countryside, heading south in the direction of Civitavecchia. Once we turn off onto the so called road that leads to Monterano though, Ed’s driving skills kick in – this road is decidedly a path more than an actual road! More like a one lane rutted goat path! Ay yi yi! Ed – being elevated once again to the best driver in the world – Sigis is back to 2nd best – beautifully navigates down the little path between the overgrown greenery towering above the road, the raised dirt shoulders – and especially when we had to navigate passing an oncoming car! Mirrors in! Phew.
Arriving unscathed at the empty parking lot, we begin our hike, circling around the gate and walking the half mile path (that looks very similar to what we just drove in on) to the 17thC Aqueduct peeking out of the trees. There are some caves here as well as the first glimpse of the castle above the tree line.
There appear to be 2 paths to the castle, one on the dirt path that veers off to the left, away from the hilltop structure, and one that goes behind the aqueduct and up the hill, following the castle walls. We choose to take the castle wall path, which is gorgeous and shaded with incredible views of the ivy covered walls towering above us.
The path dumps us out at the side entranceway to the castle, in front of the octagonal fountain and Church of San Bonaventura, both built by the sculptor Gian Lorenzo Bernini in the late 1600s. Definitely worth exploring – even if it meant sneaking around the fence at the entryway to take some interior photos. Shhhhh.
Heading up the path from the church, we enter into the main event: The fortifications of Antica Monterano. Walking around the exterior of the Ducal palace – once the Orsini-Altieri Palace (another Orsini – same as Celleno!) is just incredible. Originally built in the 8thC, then renovated several times across the centuries, the remaining stonework is amazing – as are the huge loggia arched columns we can see above us.
We can’t access the interior, but just circling around the exterior, with the tall fortified walls – now overgrown with trees and ivy – and the amazing views across the landscape is quite enough.
Arriving back at the front of the Palace, we can explore the remains of houses and stores that served the residents of Antico Monterano. Then on into what was once a square or plaza – now completely overgrown with huge trees – to view the Bernini created lion fountain built into the side of the Palace wall. It is hard to make out now, but at one time it appeared the lion was making water gush from the rock at the top of the fountain. Originally carved out of volcanic rock from Mt. Eremo, this lion is a concrete copy. The original is now located in the Palazzo Comunale in Canale Monterano.
Continuing our circumnavigation of the complex, we come across more store and residential ruins, then make our way out onto the main path, past the Church of Bonaventura and down to the carpark for our journey back to Civitavecchia.
Back down the goat path road we go, praying all the way we don’t meet another car. Fortunately, we are successful and eventually hit the “main” or rather slightly wider paved road that will lead us south, through the lush green hills dotted with stone villages on our way back to Civitavecchia.
Successfully navigating our way to the city, we are then stymied with trying to buy gas. Every station we go to is closed, which would be fine, because the pumps are open – but at the first one we visit, a helpful man there explains that we can’t use our credit card unless it has a PIN, and the only way to use cash is exact – you don’t get change back. So, if we put a 50 Euro bill in, and only get 30 Euros worth of gas – we just lost that extra 20. What? What a pain. We searched the streets on our way to EuropCar, finding one station right next to the lot that said it was open. It wasn’t, but we were lucky enough to only need 20 Euro worth of gas – 20 Euro bill in, 20 Euro on the pump. Phew!
Depositing the car at the front gate of the lot (EuropCar was closed – this was their version of after hours drop off), we dropped the keys in the box and grabbed the first shuttle – which went to every ship in the harbor. That’s new too. It used to be they designated shuttles by cruise line. Eh, no problem for us – we’re in no hurry, even though our berth is the very last on the pier – we can sit here while everyone else gets off. Not a problem.
Back onboard, we did our normal afternoon wanderings – gym, bar – then tonight, the Jazz band was playing on the aft deck, so we just hit the buffet for snacks (remember we had that Uber lunch! We’re not all that hungry, just munchy) and sat outside on the deck for dinner, listening to great music and enjoying the weather. Perfect evening.
Then it was balcony time, watching the sunset and the last 4 passengers run aboard with 2 minutes to spare. Ok, that’s pushing it. Even though we are just going to Livorno – and it’s an easy jaunt up there…still.
And then we are casting off for Livorno – our last Italian port on this sailing.
Andiamo 