We have a very relaxed morning today as we have booked a half day tour of Tangier that begins at 9am.  Oh, joy, sleep in.  NOT.  Of course not, we don’t even need the alarm to get up at 6am, and we turned the clocks back last night, so it is even easier to be up early.  So, normal morning of coffee, gym, then Pinnacle for breakfast.  Afterward we hang about on the balcony watching ships out at sea (the sailboat looks like a ghost ship, only because it is so far out there, it’s the zoom on the camera which is awesome).

Hamid, our guide, had called last night to tell us he would meet us outside of customs, a 3ish minute walk from the ship (3ish was his word).  We watched the goings on from our balcony, seeing that some guides could get right up next to the ship, but other passengers were walking out to the terminal area.  Waiting until a little before our appointed time, we made our way down the gangway and out to the buses and tour guides.  No Hamid there. Waiting a few minutes, with no success, we journey out to the terminal area, past the security guards to the parking lot, where there are guides but no one with our name on a sign.  Up ahead a bit is another port fence/gate that we think may be where Hamid meant, and head that way, but there isn’t anybody there at all.  Uh oh.  Guide hunt on!

A few minutes later, we get a call. It’s Hamid asking us where we are. We’re at the gate!  What gate?  We explain our location and he said you went too far, “I said 3 minutes.”  We said “This is 3 minutes for us!”  Moments later he pulls up with his driver, Omar Shariff (who really does look like Omar Shariff), introduces himself and starts in immediately with this location is 4 minutes’ walk!  He’s a hoot – he talks so fast, and as we will soon find out walks just as fast as he talks!

Off we go on a whirlwind speed tour of Tangier.  First stop, the 0 KM point, the point where Africa starts for Europeans – and the starting point of all roads in Morocco.  It stands in front of the walls of the Borj Dar el-Baroud old city. 

Back in the car we make our way around the city, with Hamid narrating at every corner.  We learn he is an 8^th Generation Tangerine (as Tangier natives are called), that Tangier is a very cosmopolitan city made up of a peaceful mix of Muslim, Jewish and Christian Catholics.  He is very proud that Morocco was the very 1st country to ever recognize the US as a country in 1777.  As he narrates, we drive past one of the original mosques in the city (seen through the car window here), then up into an area called California (originally the International Zone from 1923 to 1956, it was filled with foreigners who took to the “California” type lifestyle), and then into Beverly Hills, the rich sections where the 1% live.  Here we stop for photos of the city stretching out among the hills surrounding us while Hamid explains the houses are white to help with the heat in the summer, but also to repel insects like mosquitoes and flies.  Didn’t know that last piece.

Driving through California, we pass all sorts of mansions and high dollar homes, including a home owned by the King of Saudi Arabia.  There are guards and police and all sorts of activity around the place, which Hamid says is because he read the family is here for a visit – he also said moving around the city will most likely be problematic as there is such police presence and protection when they are here.  That should be interesting!  As we head to our next stop in the Perdicardis park, Hamid tells us about the major industry here – cars, electric cars, fishing and now, marijuana.  Weed. It’s everywhere.

Perdicardis park is a huge area of forest and walking trails covering 175 acres on the coast.  Named after Greek-American family who moved here and purchased the land in 1904, it is a beautiful green space with amazing views across the hills and out into water.  Supposedly there are great views of Gibraltar from here, but we couldn’t see that from our vantage point.  The interesting story about the Perdicardis family, beyond this amazing park, is that the father and son were kidnapped shortly after they moved here and held for ransom by a hill-tribe leader who asked for financial ransom and the control of 2 of the wealthiest districts. Because Perdicardis was an American citizen (born to the American ambassador of Greece), President Roosevelt became involved and sent warships to the strait to help force negotiations.  Perdicardis was eventually released and later moved out of the country.  The movie, The Wind and The Lion, is loosely based on this story.  (Although, Hamid does tell us the Perdicardis story as the wife being kidnapped and falling in love with the kidnapper, subsequently marrying him – so you go figure the truth!) The land was subsequently sold to a gangster and then appropriated to the state when Morocco became independent in 1956.   A pretty little stop with some great history.

Next we are heading to Cap Spartel, the spot where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic ocean. Unfortunately, as we approach the parking area, we are waved off by a police officer because the King of Saudia Arabia is coming.  Okie dokie then – we’ll move on, heading toward the Terrasee des Dromadaires – the Camel Terrace!  On the way, we do in fact get passed by the King’s motorcade, just like the US President’s motorcade, complete with its own ambulance.  We also pass Cinghiale on the side of the road!  Wild boar anyone? 

Finally arriving at the camel terrace – with cute little baby camels – I opt for the camel ride, Ed opts to stay securely on the ground, while Hamid, who has now fallen in love with my phone camera, takes tons and tons and tons of pictures of my little escapade.  It is far better than the one we did in the Canary islands all those years ago – and much prettier scenery.  Still a little intimidating when the camel lies down for me to get off.  You really think you’re going to topple right over the camel’s head.  But fun.

Backtracking, we hit Cap Spartel for some great photos of us and the Med/Atlantic meeting point sign, then take a little stroll down the path that leads to cave area.  It is all so pretty and wild and lush.  We can’t resist taking way too many photos…just like Hamid!

On the way to the Phoenicians tombs, Hamid gives us tons of facts and information about Tangier:  The country is the size of California, population is 1.5 million, there are 480 kinds of fish in the surrounding waters, they are the #1 producer of sardines.  As we approach the tombs, we pass by the Forbes mansion, now called Palais Mendoub, which is located across from Marshan Palace, originally the King’s palace and now used as the President’s office. Palais Mendoub was sold to the president once Forbes died and is now a private residence.

From here it is a quick walk to the 108 tombs carved directly into the rock on the hill above the Strait of Gibraltar.  The necropolis site, built in 1400 AC, has stunning views across the city, to the port (there’s our sweet Oosterdam) and over the water, making for a scenic view filled with other tourists taking pictures, as are we!

Before leaving the tombs, we are treated to Hamid playing futbol with a kid who was practicing on the lawn.  Hamid is so fun!  Plus, he knows everyone, stopping to talk to seriously every local, everywhere!  We start calling him our famous guide.   There is nowhere we can go that he doesn’t greet someone, or they greet him.  Small town?  At 1.5 million? Nah, just a friendly, popular guy.

Now we are onto the Medina, the Kasbah, talking a speed walking tour through the narrow windy little alleyways and streets.  All white washed and glowing in the sunshine, with gorgeous tiled buildings, lush potted plants and fun stores, like this novelty store with the great “head” mural depicting all the famous people in the history of Tangier. 

We also make a quick stop, just to rest, at a little 6 room hotel owned by a friend of Hamid (of course, who isn’t a friend of Hamid?).  Traditional Moroccan architecture and decorations, with some lovely paintings, it was a nice little respite from our speed walk through the Medina. 

Rest done, we are back out into the Medina, wandering through lanes and streets with fabulous architecture and scenery.  We stop at an overlook with more views over the water, before delving back into the Medina, now heading for lunch.

Ending up at the Restaurant Vandalucia, we sit down to a tradition prix-fixe lunch of delicious Moroccan specialties:  bread, olives, tapas and snacks to start; some sort of soup with a side salad with beets (yay, beets); chicken pastilla (an excellent flaky phyllo dough triangle filled with minced chicken and topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon – strange combo, but oh so good); chicken tangine (which I totally forgot to photograph); little lamb meatballs;  couscous with raisins and chickpeas (that we had originally passed on because there is enough food on this table, but that the waiter insisted we have – what you see is his version of a “small” portion, ha!); and finally dessert (of course, how can you not have dessert?) of fruit and chebakia, a popular Moroccan treat of fried dough coated in syrup and sesame seeds.  Oh so good, and oh so bad!

Filled to the brim, we make our leave, out of the Medina, over to the Resistance Museum with the monster Banyan tree in the courtyard.  We wander through the museum a bit, getting a history lesson from Hamid, which of course I have all but forgotten, then make our way back to the Kasbah on our way to the Jewish Museum, housed in the Beit Yehuda Synagogue. At some point in time, Hamid tells us the Medina was used as one of the locations for the Bourne Ultimatum movie, and he toured Ben Affleck around.  He even showed us a picture of the two of them.  See, he does know everyone – and he IS famous!

Totally tucked away in a little alleyway – past the olive market and the box of little nursing kittens – the old synagogue, built in 1890, has been preserved and maintained with added exhibits after the Israel-Morocco normalization agreement in 2020.  The culture here is such that all religions are welcome and accepted. Hamid even shows us his membership card to an organization promoting Jewish-Moroccan relations.  He is active in the community, also showing us a picture of himself and the Holocaust Foundation chair.

Now we are onto the commission/sales part of our tour! Of course, how could there not be a sales pitch! We tell Hamid we won’t buy anything, but agree to go to his friend’s carpet shop, walking through the Medina, past more gorgeous tilework and doorway architecture (yes, we are into doors and doorways – you should all know that by now).  Once at the shop, we walk through the displays and then go up to the roof for some great views across the crowded Medina and out through the city.  Hamid points out the street where he grew up and talks about the town and his life there.  So, worth the visit, honestly.

And then we are done. Wow, a whole day has flown by – with Hamid who is a fabulous guide and just a joy to be with.  We end our day with pictures on the Dar Al-Baroud Tower plaza, then rejoining our driver for the short ride back to the port entrance.  Totally great day!

We’re back aboard fairly early (remember the speed walking!) so we have the rest of the afternoon to hang out, hit the gym, have dinner and be ready for our evening sail past Gibraltar.  We are so lucky that the weather has cleared enough to see the hulking mountain there across the strait.  Then of course there is the brilliant sunset, with Gibraltar in the distance.  Perfect end to an absolutely perfect day.