Our normal morning commences, because we figure we have time for a short gym visit before preparing to explore Ceuta.  We didn’t get to watch the sail through the straits because of the timing – it’s still pitch dark out there at 6:30 and we entered the straits at 4:20am.  There isn’t a darn thing to see except night time – and some huge monstrous ship going into Gibraltar (Celebrity Ascent, it turns out).  So gym, breakfast, and then out we go.  We’re still off the ship a little after 8am, which is perfect for us.

Truly perfect, as it turns out, because we get to explore the old town while it was virtually empty in the morning, before heading out on our hike around Monte Hacho and the furthest tip of the African Peninsula here.  The only other people out at that time were the street cleaners.  We meandered through the Baluarte de los Mallorquines, the huge bastion erected in the 1500s to protect the town, with beautiful tile mosaics and art, then into the town proper.

Past the closed info center with a cool steel seaman/fishing/scuba sculpture, then on to the Plaza de Africa and the Santuario de Santa Maria de Africa, all so beautiful and so empty.

Circling to the other side of the plaza is the Catedral de la Asuncion de Ceuta, and then on the side toward town, the Ayuntamiento de Ceuta, city hall, with the obligatory town clock tower.  At the end of the block is the Virgin of the Remedies, at the former location of the convent of Trinitarios.

Following Paseo Alcalde Sanchez Prados, one of the main street running through the city, we marvel at the dragon embellished street lamps that line the street. Dragons are a symbol of the city, for over 100 years, when the Cerni brothers (one of whom was the Mayor of Ceuta) commissioned dragon sculptures to embellish the roof of their building, located in the Plaza de los Reyes.  Dragons symbolize strength and protection, emblematic of the city’s history and resilience.  We are looking for the Casa de los Dragones as well – but didn’t find it on this pass of the town – it’s on our map, so we’ll see it on our return trip through town on our way to the ship, we hope.

Taking a quick diversion back to the waterfront for a photo of The Pillars of Hercules, symbolic of the two promontories flanking the entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar – The Rock of Gibraltar and Monte Hacho in Ceuta – and one of the over 80 statues of Ceuta (of which we will explore on our next visit in November). 

Continuing our stroll through town, on our way to the hike around Monte Hacho, passing Iglesia De San Francisco with the wild Monumento a la Semana Santa, a bronze sculpture for Holy Week in Ceuta, neat tile panels on the side of a random building, more churches, and finally beginning our climb up and around Monte Hacho, some wonderful views of typical Spanish/Moorish wall carvings and flowers.

Let the climb begin!  We had found this hike on AllTrails and are following those directions to walk the 4 mile route, counterclockwise around the peninsula.  There is an elevation gain of 700 feet, which in looking at the maps, comes in phases as we walk this way, with a continuous drop on the other side, making our descent easier than our ascent.  We start out following the contours of the wall that surrounds a military facility here, then cut through the front drive of the University to finally arrive at the peninsula on the water side, albeit a few hundred feet above the water.  The views across the sea to the Moroccan side of the peninsula are incredible, including the abandoned fort or what have you below us on this side of the water.

Up, up, we continue to go, with increasing numbers of walkers heading our way, doing the clockwise circuit. Everyone who we see also has something that says Ceuta on their clothing – a zip up hoodie, running shirts, t-shirts, you name it.  Obviously a huge walking, running, oh and biking, culture here. And when we say walking, we mean speed walking. These people ain’t just strolling!  And the ones coming behind us, few as they may be, overtake us easily.  Phew.  That’s some fitness statement!

Anyhow, we continue on our trek, with Monte Hacho Fort (which has been a barracks, prison, concentration camp, and finally again an artillery barracks) looming over us almost the entire way.  Passing outcrops of cactus and flowers growing out of the stark rock cliffs, outlooks overlooking the Desnaringado Castle, where a Barbar pirate hid when his nose was amputated  while he was imprisoned in the Rif Mines, more cactus and just stunning views, waving at the cruise ship shore excursions buses as they pass us by – 2 hours of just riding around in a circle to “see the best” of Ceuta.  No thanks. We’re seeing the best here on our own!

We finally reach the apex of our hike, resting for a moment at an “official” outlook, the Mirador de Punta Almina, we can see back toward Desnaringado as well as the Punta Almina lighthouse, first lit in 1855, rebuilt in 1919 and still use today.  Plus, of course, more incredible coastal views.

Further on, we pass the Baterie de Punta Almina, with those steep wooden stairs leading down to the viewpoint.  We’ll pass, thanks.

But we do continue on our circumnavigation of Monte Hacho, with more and more beautiful coastline https://youtu.be/lhMlYjNIfxQ and more and more people walking against us.  This is just crazy, because as we figured from our map, this side of the circumnavigation is straight up with absolutely no rest – the way we came at least had some respites with level ground and no inclines.  And these people are all speed walking too.  Wow!  Impressive

Approaching sea level, we started seeing snails – which are so cute – as well as this sign for a Hindu crematorium?  Huh?  Well, you know we have to figure that out – so off we go on a diversion from our scheduled hike, walking along the seafront to the crematorium and the traditional cemetery.

It is a nice diversion and pretty much flat (which at this time is nice) with good views out across the bay.  There is a castle, Castillo de Santa Catalina, on Google Maps, as well as a park, Parque Urbano Teniente Morejon in this direction that we originally thought we would save for our next visit in November.  We are so early today though, we decide to go explore that area as well, since it is right past the cemetery.  Unfortunately, when we get to the Park it is closed and under construction.  Bummer.  But we do notice people walking in there, so, we figured do as the locals do – and walked up hill a bit until we found a way to get into the park and wander.

It’s a great diversion!  Nice wide paths leading down to the point, and lots of work going on.  Most of the paths are dirt, but some have rocks beginning to be inlaid, so you can see how it will look when finished.  Flowers and plants are being planted everywhere as well. We’ll definitely have to come back on our next visit to see the finished product.  And of course all along our route are those incredible views out to the water and around the now ruins of Castillo de Santa Catalina.

Circling back, we exit near the cemetery entrance, opting to go into the lower entrance to avoid a funeral beginning at the main gates.  A typical Spanish style cemetery, with crypts and engraved tombstones rose above us on different levels of hillside.  Because it is Labor Day, and so many people have a work holiday today, the cemetery is quite busy with other mourners as well. We aren’t comfortable wandering through as spectators while others are here paying their respects to their deceased, so we snap a few photos then head back into the city.

On our way, we pass by Monolito Llano Amarillo, or Monolith of the Yellow Plain, that commemorates the Military Uprising of July 17, 1936, when Moroccan generals finalized the details of an uprising against the Spanish Republic right before the Spanish Civil War.  The art deco-ish Monolith was inaugurated in 1940 in Llano Amarillo (Morocco), then moved to its current location in Ceuta in 1962. Then continue on along the coast with those fabulous rocky views.

We finally complete our circumnavigation and end up back at our starting point in town.  Along the way though, we keep seeing this one guy – first he is walking uphill toward us on our downward trek, then he passes, going in the same direction and says hello to us on the flat roadway as we are heading back to the city. Once in town, we see him again eating a potato chip and walking in the same direction as us.  We lose him for a bit, then see him again ahead of us on the main pedestrian avenue!  I start calling him our stalker, even though he wasn’t scary or threatening or anything – just funny that we saw him so much on such a long stretch of our walk/hike.

Meandering back through town, we find that some shops are indeed open, as are cafes and restaurants.  A lot are also closed, but there seems to be enough to do to keep most the passengers from whining.  As we get further into town (i.e., closer to the ship), there are more and more cruise passengers about.  A big clog are standing at a corner by the Monumento a la Semana Santa, but looking across the street.  I finally look up and see that they are looking at that darn Casa de los Dragones!  Crap!  We’ve walked past it twice and never even noticed.  True Amazing Race moment!  So now we have photos – have to thank the touron passengers for that one.

At this point we are getting hungry and are trying to find someplace to eat.  It’s too early by Spanish standards, and the one restaurant we try isn’t serving food until 1pm.  On we go.  Looking up and down the streets that extend off the main pedestrian area.  Most restaurants are either not open, or not serving yet, until we luck out at Correos Café, where the Captain and his family are eating – as well as a bunch of other cruise passengers.  Eh?  Not normally our thing – you know us and local off the beaten path – but on a holiday, at this time of day?  Any serving café is the place to be! And it’s a great meal.  Al fresco on the little square outside, we had excellent croquettas and a baguette Iberica that was perfect. 

Finishing our lunch with plenty of time left before all aboard, we wandered about, heading to the beach, then decided to go to the City museum quickly before their 2pm closing time.  Unfortunately, we found all the museums closed today because of the holiday.  Bummer!  And even more of a bummer, our next visit will be on a Monday!  Yep, no museums that day either.  Eh – we’ll go to the fort and walk all the statues that day.  Always something for us to do.

We did end up heading toward the beach, snapped a couple of great pictures, while watching a group of guys in black suits take pictures of themselves on the beach.  Curious?  We couldn’t figure out who they could be. 

At the end, we find we’ve broken our previous record for walking in a single day, hitting 18.50 miles (and 38,000 steps) today.

Then back to the ship, to hang out on the balcony, hit the gym, then watch the cool sail away from the balcony, messing with our cameras and the incredible zoom capabilities they have!  Look at the picture of the Monolith!  We were at least a mile away when we took that.  And the Pillars of Hercules on the breakwater.  I can’t even begin to guess how far we were from that statue.

A quick dinner, then onto the World Stage for the new comedian, Paul Adams. Absolutely hysterical!  He keeps making these side comments and talking to the production director off stage, which is even more funny.  He makes some political comment, which everyone applauds and laughs about, and he says to whomever is off-stage, “see, I told you I could do it without saying his name!”  Even more guffaws and clapping (this is the MOST liberal ship we have ever sailed – it is great, and a little surprising, happily so).  We spent the whole show just laughing and giggling, and then he tells all of us who are staying on for the next cruise, not to bother coming to his opening night show, because it will be exactly the same as this one.  Thank you! Seriously, that’s nice, so now we know – we have nothing to do on Barcelona Night.

And that’s a wrap!  Back to the balcony we go for our nightcaps and TV watching to end the night.