A 1-hour ferry ride ensues, with us only 2 of 4 non-Indians on the boat.  It was fun though, with a very nice breeze.  They sell food and sodas on the boat, but we weren’t interested, although many people bought Takis to feed to the tons of birds that were flying alongside us. Along the way, we pass petroleum or gas facilities out in the water with freighters moored alongside, tons more ships out in the harbor waiting for a birth, as well as stopping for a couple of passing ferries to switch off passengers?  Crazy – guess the locals just bum rides on certain ferries to meet other ones?  Again, we’ll never know, just one of the mysteries of Mumbai….well, India really.

Finally to the island, we were indeed met by our guide, Nikhel, who escorts us to the Toy Train for our ride from the pier, passing by a little bay area at low tide and then letting us out at the beginning of a big shopping stall arcade that leads up to cave entrance.  Tons and tons and tons of shops are set up along the stairs that lead up to the cave – all of which Nikhel tells us to ignore, we’ll see them later after the cave visit.  We’re good!

Nikhel gives us the overview of the caves as we climb: They date back 1500 years, but little is known about the origin of them. The Portuguese discovered them (of course) but couldn’t say the name of the island, so they started calling it Elephanta because there were 2 huge Elephant statues on the island (subsequently destroyed by them).  Even before the caves were excavated, the island was a Buddhist center, with the elephant statues probably belonging to the 2^nd C BC.  Over the years, particularly under the Portuguese rule, vandalism and looting, as well as military target practice disfigured many of the priceless carvings inside the caves.  We will see the evidence of this once we enter.

The main cave is the biggest attraction with 9 main carved panels of Shiva in various manifestations.  We won’t go into huge detail – but suffice it to say, we had a wonderful time exploring all the different panels, and being photographed by Nikhel at every turn!  We started with the temple in the center of the cave, then worked out way to the Andhakasura – Vadha, Shiva destroying the demon king. 

Next we moved on to Kalyanasundara-Murti, which shows the marriage ceremony of Shiva and Parvati, with Parvati on the left (after the marriage, Parvati is always on the right of Shiva), along with her brother, the Moon god.  He is holding a bowl of honey for guests, symbolizing good luck and long marriage.  This is where the term “honeymoon” came into use!  Had no idea!

The carvings are amazingly intricate – even if mangled and destroyed.  We wander from panel to panel, listening to Nikhel tell us more about the Gods than we had ever known.  And still snapping great photos of us everywhere.

We view the panels destroyed by bullets – from the aforementioned target practice – and continue on with our photo shoot in one of the anterior chapel areas before leaving the main cave entirely.  An incredible experience!  But one that isn’t over yet.

Nikhel guides us around the island to a series of minor caves used by the Buddhist monks in ancient times, most of which have nothing inside, but the carving on the entrances are the draw.  And of course the monkeys are the attraction too!  They are everywhere over on this side of the island – and while cute to look at and photograph, Nikhel tells us they are very aggressive, so we keep our distance as always.

Tour finished, we head back down through the shopping arcade area, meeting Nikhel’s mom who is selling food at one of the stalls (his entire family lives and works here on the island, as do all the guides and most everyone else in the shops).  Nikhel also takes us a shop that is owned by his cousin – no pressure to buy or anything, of course! But of course we do buy, a really neat wooden mudra carving that opens up and has the figures of Shiva and Parvati on the inside.  We had also been looking at stone carved elephants, but decided they were too heavy, so at the end of the Mudra transaction, the owner of shop gave me a little carved elephant too.  Sweet. 

Back down the walk, past the cows (everywhere!) we bought a pair of cheap sunglasses for Ed, then since we had time, and didn’t want to hang out for the toy train, we walked back down the long pier (past more cows) to the ferry, where Nikhel deposited us and off we went. 

We got some great shots of the island on our way out, plus many more birds (of course).  As we chugged our way to Mumbai, I WhatsApp’ed Husain, who had never sent the driver’s phone number.  No response.  Ugh.  We also still hadn’t received our trip documents (train tickets, hotel vouchers, etc.), so Ed also WhatsApp’ed Amit to see when/where we would receive them.  No response from Amit either. Sigh. As we said previously, there is always Uber to get back to the hotel tonight, but tomorrow, who knows?  Finally, Husain responded with the driver’s number, I WhatsApp’ed and again go no response.  Back to Husain, who finally just communicated with the driver himself and told him we were on the ferry.  He also found out the driver did indeed have our documents.  Details, details….a little lacking for the uber-spreadsheet-detail-oriented Stevens!

The trip back took way longer than over, and once we finally arrived at the gate, we were worried our driver would have had to leave – but not to be.  He showed up a few minutes after we stationed ourselves at the corner of the Taj where he dropped us off.  He is a really sweet guy, just speaks very little English – a good thing Husain organized all this!  Driving back to the Sahil, we got stuck in horrendous rush hour traffic as it was 5:30p.  It took forever to get past the train station, then by the hotel it was a mass of people, a girl’s school letting out, parents picking them up.  People pulling carts in the road, scooters, cars, taxis, you name it.  At the turn for our hotel we were blocked by a taxi trying to make a u-turn and then a huge van.  Craziness!

But we made it, and decided to take sanctuary in our sweet little hotel, eating in the restaurant again – because no way, no how are we going out into that melee!  The manager was there again and gave me a huge wine pour – and then huge portions of food!  More than we could eat actually.  Ed had Chicken Katsu, and I had the same noodles, because they were so good.  We started with a stuffed Kucha with cottage cheese which was excellent – but so filling.  It was probably the reason we couldn’t finish the noodles! 

This hotel has been fabulous. Everyone here is so service oriented and great.  In the restaurant, the waiters serve you all the food at dinner and then get upset if we serve ourselves!  Really a fabulous stay – fingers crossed the other hotels are the same.

Back in our room, we hang out watching life go on in the apartment building across the street with the residents out on their balconies (including the man we have dubbed “Santa Claus”), then hit the hay, prepared for whatever is in store for us tomorrow!