Another early morning as we are to meet our guide at the port gate between 8:15 and 8:30 – so early gym, early breakfast and out the door we go to the shuttle for the gate. This time the shuttle stops at 2 gates, which is different. But we are also in a completely different location from the last time we were here, so maybe that has something to do with it. Eh, no worries for us – for others on the bus? They are all confused and don’t know where to go, and are obviously just going to walk around. Ugh. One of the cities we for sure would never just wander around in – too crazy, too big. Oh well – their deal.
We sit happily until the normal gate and wander out into the madness of tour guides and hucksters!!! It is super crazy – just like last time! And of course, we’re early, so we have to stand out there for about 30 minutes being pestered by just about every guide out there. Ed just loves it, loves talking to everyone and showing them we have driver – he’s on WhatsApp – really!
Finally, Shifan, our driver/guide arrives and we are off on a fast pace tour of the city – a lot of which we have already seen, but also a couple of new places. Shifan is fabulous (we have really lucked out with guides so far), he is so knowledgeable and shares tons of information about Sri Lanka and Colombo in particular. Our first stop is the old lighthouse, no longer in use because expanded the land area around the port with fill and the lighthouse is landlocked – no longer on the coast.
As we drive, Shifan gives us a refresher on Sri Lankan history; The Portuguese, Dutch and British colonized the island (sound familiar), originally called Ceylon. The British developed the most of the island, including the cinnamon plantations – a huge export here. Independence came in 1947, but the British still remained until the 1960s. Then in 1970, the island officially changed its name to Sri Lanka.
At the clock tower, Shifon explains that it is called the “0 km place” – all mileage around the island is counted from here. We stretch our legs for a bit here, and Shifon gets into his photographer mode, including selfies of all 3 of us!
Our next stop is Saint Anthony’s Shrine, the catholic church that was one of the placed bombed in the suicide bombing attacks on Easter Sunday, 2019. It has since been renovated and is once again a holy place for worship, including a small piece of St. Anthony’s tongue that is in a reliquary in the glass case with the statue of the saint at the doors. It’s a nice, if not brief visit, as there are many folks here praying and we’re never quite comfortable being the tourons who disturb their worship.
Next is the Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque, where we have been before, but once again, not inside as they are closed for prayers. It is supposed to massive inside, big enough to handle 10,000 worshipers. Today, we just stand outside – well I do – and Shifon goes across the street to snap some photos of me and the impressive building.
Back in the car, we make our way around the city, past the various different architecture styles and the gorgeous old Cargills Ceylon building. Originally built in the 1600s as the resident of Captain Pieter Sluysken, the Dutch military commander, it was also occupied by the first British Governor, then purchased in 1896 by Cargills and the current building was constructed in 1906. Mammoth and gorgeous and very colonial, it sits quite regally in one of the main corners of the business district.
More city streets, more history – 15 years ago there were only 3 tall buildings (which we drive past), now there are tons and tons of high rises – we arrive at the Sri Kaileswaram Temple – the oldest Hindu temple in Colombo where we visited on our last trip. We told Shifon we had been here, so there is no reason to go inside – instead we just wandered the vibrant exterior, snapping more photos of the façade and trying to evade the vendor with the python and the monkey!
We drove past the floating market, which was listed on our itinerary, but it isn’t open any longer. The lake is very polluted and the smell is really bad, so the market closed. Now they use the parking lot for the private bus to have their morning market. Loads of small market stalls line the road alongside the bus lots, all open 24 hours as there is a constant stream of incoming and outgoing commuters here. As we said: Crazy busy city!
Next, we head to the Lotus Tower, the tallest self-supported structure in South Asia and the 2nd tallest in all of Asia, this time to go up to the top for the view. But first we must stop for a photo opp at the Valentine themed Lotus tower/casino cut out. Fun!
Then it is up in the elevator to the top, 1150 feet in the air, with a wonderful 360 degree view of Colombo. Although it is a bit hazy (or maybe smoggy?) out in the distance, the city views are not to be missed. You can really see all the new high rises – as well as the original 3 (see the picture with the 3 tan buildings circled). You can also see out to the reclaimed land that the Chinese are developing into a huge new Port City. There are multiple playing fields – where schools are having their year-end ceremonies – and the rather large Beira Lake in the middle of the city, plus we can spot the Hindu temple we just left.
Back down on the ground floor, we go to the Pixel Bloom video presentation – which is actually really cool, separated into different rooms that tell the story of Sri Lanka, Colombo and the tower. Plus, there are the Flora and Fauna and Jungle rooms – where all the animals are located and we finally see our leopard! Yes! We’re sending it to Rumesh, LOL!
On our way to our next destination, we drive past the Arulmigu Sivasubramania Hindu temple, built 125 years ago to worship Muruga, otherwise known as the God Kataragama. The temple is important to Hindus as well as Buddhists who travel great distances and in great numbers to come worship at the shrine.
Now its onto the Sri Lankan National Museum, the largest museum in Sri Lanka, housed in this gorgeous, huge, 150 year old building. Fabulous! There are so many rooms and displays and different exhibits – it is hard to know where to even start to explain! We went from hand carved shotguns to 6th Century Buddha icons to totally cool hanging oil lamps in the shapes of Elephants to reliquary to Royal sandals cast in bronze. It was overwhelming – in a great way.
There was one whole wing with ancient wood and rock carvings, like this guardstone used a front door mat, along with frescoes now displayed in frames.
Then we moved into more modern day Malay and Chinese items – the bright and caricatured Krishna depictions, crazy (or grotesque as they described it) ceramic lion, neat tea pots, then more carvings, ivory combs, more hanging brass lamps – this time in the shape of lions and standing lamps in the various bird-man shapes, finishing up this wing passing by this cool looking cannon (why would they make the cannon so artistic? We get the Lion reference, but still….).
One of the last rooms focused on local Sri Lankan mask making and the different uses the masks symbolized – war, hunting, medications, rain, prosperity, etc. Some are really huge and ornate (how they manage to balance that weight on their heads, we’ll never know!) and some just odd and goofy with those big overextended eyes. Weirdly interesting.
The last display by the exit was a reproduction of a village, which was really realistically done – up to and including transforming the building support pillar into a Jackfruit tree – with real bark and a jackfruit hanging from it! Creative!
Meeting Shifan in the parking lot, we made our way back out into the city, passing the art wall where artists display their wares, and onto lunch. We had told Shifan we wanted seafood and we just happened to be right by Isso Prawn Crazy, a little local restaurant specializing, in yes, prawns. The menu is massive – with a history of the business explaining they started as a small business run out of a partially converted residential home, growing into a chain of 5 locations focused on community and local sustainability. Perfect for us. We start off with Corn and Crab meat soup for Ed, then continue on with prawn spring rolls (and because it is Valentine’s Day, get the sauce in little heart swirls on the plate), then move on to share Teriyaki Drift shrimp with garlic rice. Ed has a side of Watermelon juice – which is really good – and we dive into an excellent meal.
After lunch we continue our drive around the city, stopping in front of the Town Hall for our obligatory pictures in front of the Viharamaha Devi Park Golden Buddha statue. It’s a repeat, but one worth doing again! While we are there, we see Sayuri, our sweet Captain’s Club concierge, with a monkey on her shoulder. Too adorably cute. We say hello of course and she is just thrilled and giggling away (we did not take pictures, figuring we’d have to pay along with them!).
Next, we head to the Independence Square – again, a repeat, but again, one worth doing twice. It was here that Sri Lanka declared Independence with a formal ceremony in 1948 – the Square and Memorial Hall built later to commemorate the occasion. Shifan also tells us that this is place for Sri Lankans to come to relax and hang out, especially during the hottest of days, because the way the Hall was built, it is always cool inside. On our way back to the care, we also visit the statue of the first Prime Minister of Independent Ceylon, flanked by protective Lions.
Then we are off to the new Port City, passing by the replica of the Aukana Buddha statue (which looks like it is flipping you off, but really it is the Buddha’s index finger pointing up in the Abhaya mudra, or reassurance pose) in a park across from the Government building. Shifan drives us through the Port city area – as mentioned owned by the Chinese – which has been going on forever. He says it has been 5 years they have been waiting for permits to build, because inspectors are checking for sinking. The space is enormous, as we saw from up in the Lotus Tower. Once complete it will be a huge residential and commercial complex, but for now, it is this massive expanse of empty land with a manmade beach (the only safe place to swim) next to a large Food Court. We walk around the Food Court, Shifan explaining that at night it is teeming with people (also explaining that they aren’t exactly 100% sure how “clean” the food is here, so they don’t bring visitors to eat here – thank you Shifan!) and on weekends the beach is packed with locals.
On our way out, back to the ship, we get some great views of the Lotus Tower, way across the city, but still so visible from everywhere – even with all the new skyscrapers! We also passed this huge store that Shifan told us was the duty free store. Because products were so expensive here (appliances, electronics, etc.), people would buy things at the duty free store to save a lot of money. If you travel out of the country (and many do, as they work overseas in UAE and other places), you have something like 2 weeks afterward to shop – so they built this mammoth store here at the port area for people to come an buy. Totally different! But so smart.
On the drive back, we chat with Shifan about life, family, etc. He tells us his oldest son is an aspiring writer who has written a book (when he was only 13!). He has a copy which he proudly shows us, and while we drive, we both read the introduction which is superb. Neither of us can believe a 13 year old wrote it. Telling Shifan this, and our background, and that his son definitely has the talent and should continue focusing on his writing, you can just see Shifan puff up with pride – as well he should. Seriously – incredible writing. When we get back to the port gate to say goodbye, he actually gives us the book as a memento. Words cannot express how dear that was to us.
Another wonderful day and tour – even though it was a short day (we nixed a bunch of places we had already been, like the Gangaramaya Temple and the floating Gangarama Seema Malakaya temple as we had been there before and didn’t want to go again. Another option was the zoo – but really? Nah. This was absolutely perfect! So off we went, back through the gate and onto the shuttle for an afternoon aboard the Millenium.
Normal activities ensued, gym, drinks, dinner, then a beautiful moon from the balcony – and day done as we sail toward Cochin…..eek…Indian immigration – which by the way has already nixed our entire 2nd day in Cochin plans. We had a waterfall tour booked which took us 2 hours out of the city to one of the spectacular waterfalls there, but we learn that we have to be back aboard early for…you guessed it…face to face immigration on the way back. Why? Who the hell knows! We’re sailing to Mumbai from Cochin, it isn’t like we are going to another country or anything. India. Immigration. That’s all you need to know. So, waterfall tour canceled and we will just figure out what we will do on day 2. Eh, it’s all an adventure!
Andiamo 