Rise and Shine.  We are up really early this morning to go up to Penang Hill.  We had prebooked our funicular tickets, so knew we could go as early as they opened (at 6:30am – well, we’re not going that early!).  After a quick breakfast, we checked out, dropped our bag with the clerk/manager (I’m telling you, she is always there!) and headed out into the street to wait for our Grab.  One of the night staff of the hotel came outside to wait with us – which was extremely sweet, and we found very interesting because we never thought we’d need “protection” or what have you out on the street.  Maybe it was just a nicety?  Wouldn’t surprise us, this place was fabulous!

Grab arrived and off to Penang Hill we went.  We were trying to get up there for the sunrise, but were about 30 minutes late – not that it mattered because it was really cloudy and not much of a sunrise.  Arriving at the station, we went straight to the online ticket line – where a guard asked us for our tickets and then blocked some other woman who was trying to follow us.  Ok.  We’re strict on these line designations! Reservation confirmed, tickets in hand, we go to the priority line (which I think we have, but don’t really know – and since they don’t turn us away, we figure we are all right), board the funicular before the masses, and grab the seats 2^nd from the very bottom of the last car (coz some other priority people beat us to the last seats) for the views.  Well, sort of the views – because here comes everyone else, jamming themselves into the little area below where we are sitting.  Probably a good thing we don’t have those last seats!

And off we go, traversing up the 2km long track, the longest in Asia, for a really fast and steep ride to the upper station.  Even though we missed the sunrise, it is still gorgeous up here with views out over the island and the mainland across the bay.

Really cool!  Literally and figuratively, as in I could have used a wrap! Will take it – quite a lovely respite from the heat we’ve been having so far.  The views all over the city were fabulous, the only downside was it was early, we wanted coffee and there was nothing open!  Not the hilltop Garden Restaurant to which we climbed up these steep rock stairs, not the Astaka Cliff Café – well, Ok, some of their food stalls were open, but nothing with coffee.  Not a thing here in this part of Malaysia. 

Making our way over to The Habitat, a protected rainforest with 1.6k nature trail built in the early 1800s by the British East India Company.  We still have about 45 minutes until this place opens!  Ok, time for more explorations.  Meandering back up the hill, we head toward the Bellvue Hotel, figuring there must be coffee here.  There are 2 guys sitting in a closed food stall who, when asked, tell us sure, go inside, there will be coffee there.  Alrighty then!  Think they thought we were guests, because the only coffee is on their breakfast buffet, and while we really want some – we aren’t quite that bold!  Instead we amuse ourselves with going out into their back garden and taking photos of the gorgeous views. 

Back to the Habitat, we stand in line by their front gates (probably a good thing as people start lining up behind us), totally absorbed by the monkey show going on!  At first there are these 2 monkeys fighting – upside down – then going their separate ways.  Then a whole pack of them go running across the wires and head straight toward us.  Retreat! Retreat!  Not ready for monkey madness right now – plus, these guys look like they mean business, not getting attacked this morning, thank you.

At 9:00 exactly, the gates are opened and we head on in to buy our tickets and beginning our explorations of this great natural habitat.  Beginning life as the Great Hill, this area was the first and oldest British Hill station in Asia.  In 1793, the British built a lookout point here to alert Fort Cornwallis, down on the shore, if any French ships were approaching.  Since the Hill provided clear views, it was the ideal place to spot a potential attack before ships rounded the island into the Straits of Malacca.  The British obviously kept the hill as a natural track, protecting it in 1911 as a forest reserve. 

Following the paved trail through acres of pristine rainforest flora and fauna was perfect for us!  It made us miss our walks at home so much – but it was so refreshing to be able to be out in the forest and wilderness, basically all alone as we were the first to enter and no one had caught up to us yet.  Enjoying the peace and solitude, we pass by murals of an Indian girl in tradition costume (an homage to the Sri Aruloli Thirumurgan temple we caught a glimpse of outside the gates) and a little boy in traditional Malay clothing (a tribute to the Penang Hill Mosque next to the temple, reinforcing the harmonious way of life between mixed faith here in Malaysia). 

Turning off the path, we walked the Langur Way Canopy Walk, the longest double span stressed ribbon bridge in the world – sort of like a stationary suspension bridge!  It was beautiful and so high up – and the trees were so huge. 

Traversing further into the Biosphere, we climb the rock stairs up to the Curtis Crest Tree Top Walk, the highest public viewing point on Penang Island at 2600 feet above sea-level.  Looking more like the top of a football stadium than a walkway, after climbing the 100 or so steps to the top, the views are amazing – what has to be one of the best viewpoint walks ever.  We are so high up – and the views are breathtaking as advertised.  There is a clear view of Bel Retiro, the lodge that was built when the hill was first cleared in 1793 to be utilized as a lookout point for attacking ships.  For the 2 centuries since, it has been the official Governor’s residence and retreat.

Back down on the ground we continue on our nature walk, playing around with the Black Squirrel cut out – will probably be our only photograph of those huge things! Then stumble upon a Dusky Leaf Monkey, a really pretty monkey with the biggest whitest eyes that lives in the tree canopy here in the Biosphere.  They are small, only 5 to 9kg, but they eat up to 2kg of food a day – and that is exactly what our little friend is doing. Picking and chewing whatever leaves or seeds it can find then swinging away to another tree.  Much cuter than those aggressive things down at the entrance gate!

We also find a Giant Swing that in theory should give us great views out over the Biosphere, but in actuality does little besides make us dizzy and provide glimpses of the green trees that surround us.  Nice idea…and its still fun, even if a little nausea inducing!

And then we are done with our walk, ending up, where else?, in the gift shop.  Although to be honest, it is a pretty good shop with all the proceeds going to continue the research and protection of the rainforest here – plus, bonus!  They have an insulated water bottle on sale.  Perfect!  Now I can stop agonizing over the lost SH bottle.  Sigh. Yep. Still obsessing over that. A café is also here where we finally get our caffeine fix in the form of 2 lovely cappuccini.  Perfect end to a perfect morning!

And really – it was a perfect morning – because when we arrived up at the top of The Hill, there wasn’t anyone around. Hardly a couple of hundred people – if that – spread all over the top of the mountain.  Heck, we only saw maybe 10 other people in The Habitat the whole time.  Now?  Completely different story – teeming with people, ship tours included!  Oh, we are so out of here!  Happily so!  We still have about a 10 minute walk back down to the funicular, but it is a gorgeous walk, full of beautiful flowers and fabulous views out across the island.

Back at the upper station, we hopped on funicular pretty easily – me getting the catbird seat by sitting down on the steps at the very back of the car alongside 3 Aussie women who were so nice and sweet.  We talked and took pictures and videos all the way down the track. Going down you REALLY get just how steep these tracks are – phew!

Penang Hill complete, we order our Grab and head back to the hotel seamlessly.  They had nicely let us keep our remaining wine and beer in the fridge until we came back, and were so welcoming and sweet telling us we could chill there for as long as we wanted!  So we did, handing out for a bit, relaxing in the breakfast room, having a late morning refreshment, before heading out into the mean streets.  Ok, well, they aren’t’ really mean!  Truly though, the streets are all open now and cleaned up from the festival like nothing ever happened, just a normal day in George Town.

A little before noon, we finally left, heading toward the ship and the Saigon Bowl – our chosen spot for lunch.  Vietnamese? Yes please.  Of course, this being Malaysia, it is a Halal Vietnamese restaurant – so no pork.  Banh Mi’s with no pork of all things!  But, honestly? It was all really excellent.  We ordered a starter called Banh Knot – which ended up being these little fried pastry shells stuffed with vegetables and chicken and spices.  Amazing.  And then Vietnamese fried chicken wings and finally the aforementioned Banh Mi – we had to try it! And it was fabulous with fried chicken.  All absolutely excellent – and as always far too much to eat! 

From here we waddled back to the ship – which was only a short distance away – to spend the rest of the afternoon happily aboard – watching the huge RCL Anthem of the Seas disgorge her passengers.  They have a weird port call – from 2p to 11p – and quite frankly, we are happy to spend the rest of our afternoon here and not crowded into town with that mess.  And so we do –  satisfying ourselves with reading, early gym (we can get a machine!!!) and generally laziness until our normal dinner and then the Cirque de Soliel show, Him & Her mystery duo which is very good and worthwhile.  Later retiring to the balcony for a beautiful nighttime sailaway, watching the lights of Penang fade into the distance.