10/28 – Our first full day in Kyoto

After an absolutely lovely sleep – oh – those beds, and those comforters (but not the pillows – they are like bricks, we have no idea of what is inside of them, maybe bamboo? Like whole stalks of it?) – we decide to have a very un-Ed and Cathy morning and just take it easy. We can drink our drip coffee, relax and catch up with the world (and transferring all our pictures over to the computer)! Also, it was raining in the morning, so we figured, what the heck? Relaxing is a good thing.

After a while, we rousted ourselves and took our weird shower – not in the bathtub, in the middle of the bathroom under the shower head! – and walked over to the Train station for lunch at Tonkatsu Wako, an awesome Katsu (fried) restaurant that Takashi had recommended. The food was fantastic. We had Hirekatsu Don, which was 2 pork cutlets on rice with an egg drop sort of soup over it – but not a runny soup, this was thick and almost like a thick sauce, as well as Yambuki, pork katsu with crab croquettes. Excellent. And the miso soup had little clams in it again. Ed had a blast – he had both his and mine.

After lunch we wandered around the station. And what a station it is! 2 huge malls, 11 stories high, huge escalators, plus a massive sky bridge with views of the Kyoto tower and out to the mountains. A marvel of engineering – and so futuristic.

Station explorations complete, we hit the discount stores for supplies – laundry stain remover (PS, it didn’t work on the ramen stains we got in Fukuoka) and coffee mugs because the cups at the house are way too tiny. Ok, we know we are strange, but come on, we bought the mugs at the 1 coin store, so they only cost $0.67 cents each – it is amazing what they sell there. Bought some more coffee in the little single serving drip bags that we adore, then headed back to the house.

On the way, we passed the To-ji temple, which is only a couple of blocks from the house. It was one of 2 original temples built when the capital of Japan moved from Nara to Kyoto. To-ji means East – thus it is the East Temple. The West temple that was built was destroyed, so this is all that remains. The 5 storied pagoda is the largest in Japan. And there wasn’t hardly anyone there! Bonus!!!

As we entered the South gate, we spied a beautiful Heron sitting on the banks of the moat, watching us. Our talisman everywhere we go! Also as we entered, we noticed a poster for night time lights at the temple – every fall many of the temples open at night with lights on the foliage, most though don’t do this until November. We are lucky that the To-ji temple has a much longer lighting schedule, and while we are a little early for the true fall colors, we figured we can’t miss it and planned to go back in the evening too.

Entering into the complex, you can walk all around the exterior on the west side free of charge – so we got some lovely photos of the buildings that make up the temple site. Once in the paid part of the temple, we wander around the lovely garden and pond area, with a wild looking weeping Cherry Blossom Tree that must be absolutely gorgeous in the spring. The trees and shrubs in the garden are just beginning to show a little bit of color and look so pretty with the Pagoda in the background.

Circling through, we end up at the Pagoda. This is the 5^th iteration of the Pagoda, built in 1644. The first four each burned down after being struck by lightening. But none of the structures were ever leveled by an earthquake, due to the interlocking method of building. When an earthquake hits, the vibrations are gradually damped as they move higher and higher. Each level of the pagoda also moves independently, a motion known as the ‘snake dance.’ Pretty amazing considering the first pagoda was built in the 10^th Century. Unlike other pagodas, we can’t go in to view the relics of the Buddha, but it makes a great photo op against the beautiful cloud studded sky.

We can enter the Kondo (main hall) and the Kodo (lecture hall) although no photos are allowed. But of course, there are the brochure photos….The Kondo is the largest structure in To-ji. Originally built in 1486, reconstructed in 1603 after burning down (there is definitely a fire issue here!). There are 3 relics inside – The Yakushi Nyorai known as the Buddha of Medicine in the middle with his two attendants – the Nikko Bosatu (the Bodhisattva of the Sun) and the Gakko Bosatu (the Bodhisattva of the Moon) – on either side. Massive, golden, ornately carved. They are beautiful and peaceful to behold.

In the Kodo, originally built in 835, it’s present version being built in 1491, there are 21 statues placed according to the mandala that is central to the Shingon Buddhism sect. while the Mandala is usually drawn in only 2 dimensions, the Kodo is said to the be a 3-dimensional version of the mandala with Dainichi Nyorai, the principal Buddha, in the center. Here we get to walk all around the statues – so we can see all 3 dimensions. It is hard to describe – and we know the brochure picture does not do it justice, but it is a very spiritual and magical place.

Leaving the halls, we visit the Meido, the residence of the Monk Kukai, the founder of Shingon Buddhism. Now though, it is used as an exhibition hall, today for a special exhibit of the painter Kanransai whose paintings are all themed around families and children, and the Kannon’s power to gently soothe and heal. More whimsical than orthodox, the paintings are sweet and gentle – and definitely soothe the soul. There also some wonderful wood engraving prints he has created.

Before heading back to the house, we stop by the temple gift shop and spy some bamboo amulets – two of which speak to us! In this time of strife in our home country, we could not help but buy these special meaning amulets.

Back to the house, did laundry (see above stain removal fail), dried the laundry in the “heat up” – a heater in the ceiling of the bathtub bathroom that blows hot air into the room. There are rods installed to hang the clothes – and this ingenious folding rack with clips to hang items that don’t fit on hangers! I love it – and totally want one!!! We messed around with the automatic bathtub – it talks to you (God knows what it says) and fills the tub automatically. All you have to do is push the start button.

As dark settles in, we head back out onto the streets in search of a little restaurant across from the temple for dinner that we found on Google maps. We have to walk all the way around the temple – which is lit up and beautiful even from outside the stone walls! The Heron is also still hanging about, this time with a friend. Maybe they live here because no one else is paying the a bit of attention, while we are going nuts with the pictures!

As for the restaurant, well, that’s a bit no go – either it is not open, or not there anymore. Thanks Google Maps!!! Since we were right across from the Temple entrance, we just went there figuring we’ll find dinner somewhere. Wow! Gorgeous! Sort of like Winter Lights at the Arboretum, same, same, but different! The Pagoda and the gardens are brilliant – even if there isn’t that much fall color yet.

You can go into the Kondo and Kodo – and they are lovely – the statues all lit up But the main event is definitely the Pagoda and surrounding gardens. And because we are so early – in the season and the time of night – it isn’t crowded in the least. Even better.

Now it is time for dinner. There really aren’t many options in this area, but there is always Mr. Gyoza, the little hole in the wall gyoza place we tried to go to last night. Tonight we are more inclined to stand in line, and we are pleasantly surprised to find it isn’t that long. We are 3^rd, and after only about 10 minutes we are led to our counter seats where we have the best gyoza (12 pieces) and Karage (fried chicken – 6 pieces) and a beer for $12. Love it!