Another lazy day today – we are up early as usual, doing all our normal activities. We aren’t scheduled to get into Kochi until 10 with the first shuttle into town at 10:30. So….relaxing morning hanging out on the balcony as we sail in. Again – we know the shuttle drill, and even though we are early at dock (9:30) we are one of the first off and one of the first in the shuttle line – along with Byron and Kelly a few people in front of us. Which proves to be the right move because by the time the first shuttle is loading (to the port folks credit, they get the buses running early) the line is wrapped multiple times around the parking lot – must be a few hundred waiting for the shuttle.
Off we go, through the roads and tunnels that we remember so well from our other visits here (and the reason – mostly the tunnels – why we didn’t try to walk to the botanical gardens!). We have absolutely no plans today except food – Kastue no Tataki (seared Bonito) and Boshi Pan (hat bread)!
We arrive in town a little after 10 with plenty of time to wander before the restaurants opened. Not that we have much we want to see, but we did find an old clan “tenement” at the other end of town, so we headed there, walking along the riverfront with the wild looking buildings – it’s a hotel! – and of course, manhole covers.
The home of the Yamauchi clan is easy enough to find, nestled in between modern buildings all around it. Called a “tenement” – a clan living space from the old traditional period – it was the villa belonging to the 16th lord Yamauchi. Some of the explanations say it is for lower class Samurai, with rooms set up to exemplify how they would live in the 1800s. There are a series of rooms with lots of tatami, obviously, as well as displays that show the villa before and after restoration, along with examples of the actual timbers used to build the house originally. Also a 2nd floor area that had a display of lots of model ships – including miniature sailors manning the ships – that apparently one of the clan members built in the more modern era. We think – at least that is what the translation led us to believe. Overall, very interesting and a good time waster.
Across the street is a park that used to be the residence of the 15th lord Yamauchi, which is now where a bunch of school children are there eating their lunch. As we enter the park, one group is leaving, crossing the street like little ducks in a row, with their yellow hats and arms raised (apparently something they are taught to do when they cross the street because each group does the same thing). Up the hill from the park area is a shrine dedicated to the Yamauchi clan surrounded by trees with a view of the river. The clan – or at least some of its members – is buried here. It is a peaceful and beautiful little corner of the city. Made all the more special because there is a little girl dressed up for a ceremony – probably her 7th birthday which is celebrated in Japan, and as we are leaving the photographer is posing her. We ask if we can take a photo too, and the parents agree – she is the cutest, most adorable little thing! Made our day.
Leaving the park, we walk through the Thursday market – a local farmer’s and prepared food market where more school children are buying their lunches (and not looking all too happy about it either!). Heading toward the arcade for lunch, we of course have to stop for pictures of the Kochi castle, and then, bonus! We hit the grocery store and they have the boshi-pan already out in packages. We were worried we might be too early for just boshi-pan – last time we could only get a mixture with croissants and other pastries. We’re gluttons – we pick up 2 packs. When in Rome. It is now time for our Katsue No Tataki – and since we thoroughly enjoyed the Myojin-maru restaurant the last time we were here, we go there again – and it just as good as we remembered. This time we order combination plates with both the salted fish and a soy version – ever so yummy!
With nothing else to do, we wander through the arcade, finding two more manhole covers, only to be roped into a junior guide presentation. There were about 50 6th graders who were walking around doing “tourist guide” work, corralling cruise passengers and giving them little tours. Absolutely adorable. They descended upon us as we were walking, asking us to watch a presentation. We were going to turn them down, when the adult guide supervising them really sort of begged us to go. We couldn’t resist – and so glad we didn’t. Best 10 minutes ever! They stood in front of a large screen explaining all about the food and the fruit that are special to the region. They explained the Yuzu festival , all about the sweets, including hat bread, when they started talking about the bread – Ed held up our bread. They went wild! I was too busy watching and didn’t video it, darn it. It was the cutest thing ever! I did video after that though. As well as the end with a sweet thank you. So special.
Afterward, we just meandered through the arcade, stopping at the 1 coin store for bags for candy for the crew. At another store, finding the flat umbrellas we originally bought in Osaka that are perfect for travel. Figured we should have back ups in case they fail at some point in time. It was still really early, and we had nothing left to do. We thought about going to the Yosakoi Festival Museum again, but then stumbled upon this Manga museum a little past the bus stop and figured why not?
Perfect stumble! The place is 2 stories of Manga memorabilia created by a famous Kochi cartoonist, Yokoyama Ryuichi, considered the father of Manga, who created Fuku-chan, an incredibly popular Manga character. The museum has exhibits from Yokoyama’s early days – when Fuku-chan was just a side character – through his later years after Fuku-chan became the main character and one of the most beloved character across Japan. The little boy with his trademark student hat and geta sandals.
There are tons of drawings and books life size reproductions of Yokoyama’s home and studio (he was a collector and possibly hoarder judging from his studio!), a Fuku-chan Kesho Mawashi, the obi that a sumo wrestler wears when entering the ring, for Tosanomi (a famous sumo wrestler from the Kochi Prefecture) and all sorts of other collectables, such as his toy collection. Oh and a replica of his authentic style bar – the placard said that “Ryuichi love alcohol.” Man after our own hearts! But still a hoarder!
A special collection on the 2nd floor featured all his original Manga drawings. Cases and cases full of pen and ink drawings, original Manga books (like our comic books) dating from his first in the 1920s to some of his last in the 1980’s and 90’s. Totally fun and interesting and a great way to spend an hour or so in Kochi.
Leaving the exhibition, we pass under the huge Gyo Gyo tower, a giant fish hanging art created by Yokoyama, suspended from the ceiling over the staircase. It is similar to a mobile, and every hour it lights up, spins and plays music. One of the docents told us to stay for it, so we make ourselves comfortable in the lobby there and watch as the tower performs for us even singing the special ocean song. A nice diversion.
A quick walk back to the shuttle puts us in line and easily onto the next bus, then back to the ship in a jiffy. We buy some wasabi cookies from the little market inside the pier (oh, I am such a happy camper) and then proceed with our normal evening activities. Dinner in Lido – why bother with the restaurant now? The cruise is almost over and we just prefer it up here, food quality, atmosphere (heck we are outside all the time) and great staff. Tonight there are 3 types of fish too – and we got to sample each. Perfect.
We finish dinner too quickly and have tons of time left of the evening, so we hit the show, which is the dancers with In Tandem. We’ve seen it, but we’re bored! They are a great dance troupe – so not like this is torture – just time wasting. Then it is the Ocean’s Bar for our nightcap and the cabin. Only 2 more ports. Where does the time go?
Andiamo 