11/12 – Domat to Bergun

It is another cold and rainy day in Graubunden canton, and while we were originally scheduled to go to Weesen today, we are on to Plan B again – now going to ride the Bernina Express to Bergun up in the Alps.  This trainline is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site for the combination of the train and the surrounding landscape. 

Sigis picks us up for another wonderful breakfast at the apartment, then after choosing our borrowed heavy coats (because our puffy coats are too lightweight for the altitude and temps we will encounter – Gaby and Sigis think of everything!) at the appointed time we drive to the train station to catch the noon train up into the Alps in the direction of St. Moritz.  The ride is spectacular.  We pass the confluence of the Rhine and Vorderrhein, the waters a magnificent aquamarine. 

Higher and higher we climb with stunning views out over green pastures, a little town where there was a huge landslide a few years ago and then up into the Alps where the snow starts to show on the peaks.

We cross over many of the 196 bridges, with incredible views down into the water filled ravines below, finally transversing over the Landwasserviadukt and through one of the 55 tunnels on this 122 KM of railway. 

A little over an hour later we are deposited in Bergun, where we get our first up close and personal interaction with snow – or at least Ed does!

At the station we visit the Bahnmuseum or train museum which provides tons of details on the Abula line and the Rhaetian Railway, which was begun as a private enterprise, but taken over by the Graubunden government in 1897 when the Federal Government changed the laws to make railways state operated, not privately funded.  The Graubunden government promptly determined to expand the existing narrow gauge railway through the Abula valley.  This part of the railway line was completed in 1914 and runs through St. Moritz and on to Tirano. 

The museum is an interesting array of history and displays and a fantastic kids area with little caves and tunnels to crawl through – which of course I have to try – hey they were talking about mountain fairies inside this cave!  You can’t miss that – in English no less!

We spend a very fun hour or so wandering through all 3 floors of exhibits, marveling over the displays and particularly the images of the longest train in the world – over 1km long – that ran on October 29, 2022.  That was just amazing!

We take our leave of the museum, with plans to come back after 3pm to see the miniature train set in action – in the meantime taking a beautiful stroll through the little alpine town of Bergun.  Talk about picture postcard material!  The snow covered alps, the Swiss style houses nestled in the valley, the river bed down below.  It is just gorgeous up here.

We find totally interesting architecture – windows, doors, clock towers – but of course the best is the bear!  There’s a life size bear wood carving standing at the edge of a lot which just begs for a picture!

Looking for a café for coffee, we find everything is closed as this is the “middle” season between summer and winter tourist time.  So we go back to the Museum which has a nice little café where we have our coffee, cappuccino, tea and Ed and I splurge on an amazing Apple Strudel – like nothing we have ever eaten! – and an equally amazing Nut torte called Nusstorte in German.  They are both so good – but that Nusstorte!  Oh, I am definitely putting that on my recipe list! 

Caffeine and snacks handled, we re-enter the museum to see the miniature train set in action.  That thing is a work of art!  The man who created the entire set is there and talks to us for a long time.  He is such a great guy and you just here the passion in his voice when he talks about the models.  And what detail!  The buildings, the people, the little details like the bikes leaning up against the wood pile.  Really, truly a work of art!

Done with our explorations, we head back outside to the station to wait for the train, snapping our last postcard pictures from the parking area outside the station.  Sigh.  Just beautiful.

Then it is onto the train with equally stunning views – just in reverse! The colors are extreme – the bright green fields against the dark green pine forests.  The translucent clouds floating against the snow covered peaks.  I could sit on this train and look out the window forever. 

But eventually we are back down into less rural areas, back to the confluence of the Rhine and then eventually to the car and our apartment across from the pasture.

A quick freshen up break and Sigis is back to pick us up for our last dinner together.  Drinks and appetizers in the sitting room, with Sigis serenading us on the Trombone (that he played in the service and now plays with Dominic in their 2-man/boy band!).  First it is the US National Anthem, then it is the Swiss National Anthem.  Standing ovation for both!

Then it is on to a fabulous Gaby dinner of beef in sauce that we absolutely love (and have the recipe from her that we have made at home before!) and lots of conversation and reminiscing and fun.  But bittersweet because we know we are leaving tomorrow and this is our last night together. 

Tearful goodbyes ensue, but with promises of a reunion next year for our 20th anniversary!  Can you believe? 20 years of a wonderful friendship – and plenty more to come, that we can promise.

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