4/13 – On our way to Kyoto

Up an at’em early, we have our bags outside at 6am and are in the breakfast room right after that. It is empty this early in the morning, and much preferable to the zoo-revue that it is later. Quite a few of our group are already here, which gives us great hope for leaving on time for the train station.

Breakfast accomplished, we hang out in the room for a bit before going downstairs to meet the throng. No assigned seats on the bus today – it is only a 20 minute drive to the station – which throws off a bunch of folks. Finally all aboard, one guy (who we think is challenged) has forgotten his passport and has to run back to get it. Sigh. This is already not starting well. We are finally on the road at 7:30 and actually get to the station pretty much on time. Now comes the fun part! Herding 40 people – most with carry on bags (sigh) – through Tokyo station, one of the biggest and busiest, to get to the track and the train. Osamu has told us multiple times and has come through the bus with a schematic of the car and seats we are to take – but you know what’s going to happen! Ed and I are prepared. We’ve already strategized that whoever gets on that train first will take the first assigned seats on the 2 side (there is a 2 seat side and a 3 seat side). Let the others beware!

We manage to successfully file through the group turnstile, and then slowly make our way to the correct track. Then we go up the escalator and walk briskly down the track to the area where the 16 car will arrive. I’m in the lead (assigned by Osamu to stop at the 16 car) so I’m in the cat bird seat. Once to the platform area, nobody can figure out what to do. Sigh. We keep telling people the same thing Osamu did – 20 people get on at this door, 20 people at the other door. Why this is a surprise, or so hard, we’ll never know.

At any rate, the train arrives, is cleaned and we are allowed to board. We get our 2 side seats and then sit back and watch everyone get confused as to where to go, where to sit, why they can’t sit together. With the right attitude it is hysterical – which is where we’re trying to stay – laugh it off. Of course our code word is now “Anthony” – as in Anthony Bourdain, “Don’t get on that bus!” At least that keeps us laughing! Hey, this is filling a hole we needed to fill and it gets us to a bunch of different places we’ve wanted to see. So – it is all good – if not a tad maddening!

Once on the train, it’s a smooth ride – with great views of Mt. Fuji along the way.

I spend most of the ride writing up this blog post! And Ed spends reading. Once in Kyoto, Osamu gets us all on the bus, we have actually rotated into the front seat, which makes it nice to get off quickly and on last! Our first stop is Oki dori (which will forever by known in my mind as Okie Dokie street) and then takes us to the lunch area, which is a long arcade with shops and a few restaurants. As he disorients everyone with his rambling talking and trying to point out restaurants, we just wander on ahead, perusing on our own. We come to the end of the arcade and find the perfect spot for us- Yokozuna Japanese Tapas! We’re definitely in on that!

They escort us to the back of the restaurant, situating us at a little table in the corner and we feast on Gyoza and Karaage – we love that chicken!!! – plus Tianjin-han, the omelet over sticky rice – but this one with a different sort of sauce that is amazing. Plus two big beers that comes with marinated bamboo shoots as snacks and we are happy little food campers!

Plus, we are done and out of there as the place begins to fill up with the mad lunch rush. Now it is wandering time. We hit the underground mall, buying way too many sweet snacks (but hey, they are caramel liqueur chocolates – we can’t resist those!) Then make our way back upstairs, ending up across the street from where we are meeting the rest of the group – but managing to get there easily before our assigned meeting time.

Back on the bus, we drive through Kyoto, over bridges with sparkling clear running water rivers, and to our first stop – the tea ceremony. Not our choice – but we have no choice. We are all herded up into the open room with the tools to make our own tea in front of us – and watch a lovely little show of the mamasan making tea for her guest. It is very Japanese – just what you’d expect a ceremony to be. Then we are served our tea. Ok – I am NOT a tea fan, and this matcha stuff is, well, in a word? Gross. But the best part about the whole thing is the sweets that are given to us first, so we can have sweet and bitter together. Don’t even bother with the bitter tea – just give me the sweets – which is in the form of an adorable little bunny. And totally yummy!

Next we get to try our hand at making our own tea. Ok, arm strength. You really have to whisk really hard and fast to get the appropriate bubbles. It’s all well and good, but whatever. It was included and, we can say we’ve done it now.

After the ceremony we have time to shop downstairs in the craft store – which is nice, but really pricey and nothing appeals to us enough to buy. We retreat outside to the gorgeous day and fresh air – we’re not wasting beautiful weather by being inside – to wait for the rest of the group and the bus.

Back on the bus, we head off to the Kinkaku-ji Temple, or Golden pavilion. Originally built in the 12^th Century as an aristocrat’s county estate, then taken over by a Shogun, it was converted to a Buddhist temple after the Shogun’s death in 1422. Largely restored in the Edo period, it sadly burned down in 1950 and this is an exact reproduction, including the gold leaf encrusted temple – thus, the “golden pavilion” moniker. We have 30 minutes here to walk the one-way circular trail. Of course, we take off, A) because it is crazy crowded here and B) because we just can’t walk as slow as Osamu’s style! Even though uncomfortably crowded, we can at least bob and weave our way around to get some fabulous photos! It is a perfect day to wander here – gorgeous sunshine, mild temperature – if only there weren’t so many people!

Our next stop is Gion, the geisha area, which here in Kyoto are called geiko because it sounds sweeter and nicer, like the word for deer. Osamu explains the process of becoming a geiko; the girls start at 16 and are called meiko, then at 20 to 22 years of age they become geiko and choose to either continue as a geiko or go into some other entertainment business, or simply leave to get married. During their training, they live in this district with a mamasan, a retired geiko who trains them. Sounds a little, well, sketchy, to our Western senses, but what do we know?

Arriving at the crazy busy parking lot, the bus can’t even get in there, we disembark for a 10 minute walk to the main area, passing through a huge temple with a food stall festival! There are okonomiyaki on a stick! No! I so want one! Sadly we have no time to stop for it – although with this group we could stand here and finished eating it and still be able to catch up. But, no, we will refrain.

Sadly, we should have just stayed there and filled our stomach because the next 45 minutes can only be described as painful. This area is tourist laden – or overburdened – take your pick. The streets are crazy crowded, we are walking painfully slow, Osamu is droning on about geikos and shows and rich business men who pay for an evening with the geikos. The street is lined with old traditional wooden buildings and lanterns, but it is so crowded you can’t get a good picture. Then there is the bossy know it all Aussie/NC chick who has seen the signs that say “No photos on private streets” and is yelling at everyone to not take pictures. Come on man (or chippie) – this is NOT a private lane – it is the major thoroughfare through Gion. The little lanes leading off of here are the Private streets where pictures are forbidden. Sigh.

We continue to slowly move our way down the street, listening to all the stupid questions about geiko shows, booking, etc., etc. Osamu explains that these shows are sold out far in advance, but still is getting questions like “what about tonight? Can we get tickets for tonight? What do they cost?” We’re getting exhausted just listening. Finally we turn back, heading toward the bus, well ahead of the pack with a family from Vegas (who are cool), when we notice t hat Osamu has turned off into some side street. Oh geez! First off, we’ve lost about 5 folks who headed back to the bus. Second off, obnoxious Aussie/NC girl is now taking pictures! Really! On the private lane where you DON”T take pictures! You can’t make this stuff up. Long story short, we have to yell to Osamu to tell him we’ve lost 5 people, who then decides to cut our wanderings short, to the delight of some, the disappointment of others (you can guess which category we are in!).

The bulk of us make it back to the bus while Osamu goes back to locate the missing 5 who have called him with their location. They finally arrive, no worse for wear, and very contrite, and we are finally off to the hotel. Thank God! Osamu is taking anyone who wants on a walking tour of the Kyoto station later to show us restaurants, etc., but we’re having no part of that – oh no! We are done with this style of walking tour, we’re on our own. And quite happily so, I might add.

Checked in, freshened up, we hit the road, heading to a little place I found in my research which has an assortment of everything – from sushi to tempura. Finding it was easy – but getting in not so easy. Unfortunately, there are no seats available in the tiny restaurants. Poop. Plan B – we wander! Actually ending up in a great place that we’ve deemed the Japanese Denny’s (for some reason – maybe coz it sort of looks like a free standing Denny’s). There are spacious tables, we get to order on the tablet that the waitress helpfully changes to English. Perfect! A repeat of lunch plus a few dishes – Gyoza, fried chicken, marinated bamboo shoots, a salted egg and this great thinly sliced pork! Plus 2 beers and it only cost $14 USD. Happy campers.