After two beautiful days at sea, today? Not so beautiful. It is dark and wet as we wake up and head to the gym to get an early start on our touring today. Pooh. Oh well, at least its warm – and that’s what we have rain gear for!
Gym done, breakfast handled (although you really can’t go to Pinnacle Grill if you have an early tour – or want to get off early. These guys are slow – sea days are perfect in here, but port days? Nah. Today was ok, as we had no set schedule and knew we couldn’t be at the Naval Underground Headquarters until 9 – slow was fine!
Out in the terminal, we pass through immigration (actual passport in hand – the Japanese are still so strict!), find the ATM then hit the Tourist Information desk for more info on how to get to the Underground Headquarters. We are thinking about taking the bus, but there is a laminated card on the desk providing taxi cost estimates, and we see the Headquarters is only 2500 Yen. When our turn comes, though, we get the lady who only speaks Japanese, not the English speaking ones – so it was a little hard to figure out what we wanted. She spoke and understood enough English to get us a brochure for the Headquarters – in Japanese – to show a taxi driver, and she gave us a nice map of Naha – but just mentioning the bus threw her for a loop. So….what the heck, we’ll just grab a taxi.
Which was super easy and absolutely the right thing to do! They are so organized – there are 2 “helpers” out at the taxi rank, with a sheet of paper that designates where you want to go. The helper fills it out, or ticks off a box with the destination, then hands it to us to show the driver. Oh, and on the back of the paper it literally says “Please take me back to” and then the Japanese for the cruise port terminal. Perfect!!!
We won the lottery with our taxi driver too. He was young and adorable, and talked to us the whole way to the Headquarters. Excellent English – even though he claimed he didn’t speak it well. Everyone says that – and we’re always telling them they speak English a heck of a lot better than we speak Japanese, for heavens sakes! We know 2 words! At any rate, he talks to us about the traffic and tells us how long it will take to get there – it is a far piece away from the core of the city and as he drives us up the hillside to the entrance, we are ever so glad we bagged the bus idea. Walking down will be fine – up? Another story entirely.
And that was our plan, to walk back into the city, but sweet taxi guy says he’ll wait for us. No way? Really? And for free – he’s not charging us. We were amazed – and of course thanked him profusely! He showed us where he’d be waiting – and off we went, up into the gardens surrounding the tunnels, meandering past the Navy Veteran Memorial Tower and along the path overlooking the city. By the time we make the circuit of the park pathways, the Headquarters Bunker (or trench as the literal translation) has opened and we begin our explorations.
On the top floor, entry level, there are quite a few photographs lining the stair railings and the around the circular room – all focused on the Okinawan people and their situation during and after the battle for Okinawa. Definitely comparable to the Vietnam War photos all over Saigon and Hanoi, the damage here was devastating, and the people were so affected. They call this battle the “Typhoon of Steel” and it lasted for 3 months. A total siege that obviously changed the outcome of the war.
Heading downstairs, we pay our entrance fee and start in the museum which has lots and lots of artifacts from the time period. Most of the exhibit is in Japanese, but there is enough English translation to get the gist. Essentially, this underground labyrinth was used as the Headquarters for the Japanese Naval Command. Vice Admiral Minoru Ota, the Commanding officer of Japanese Navy committed suicide here, along with 5 others on his staff, when it was evident the battle was going to end in surrender. He sent a farewell telegram to the mainland before dying (the recording of the actual Morse code for the telegram is there in the museum!) and there is a carved farewell poem on the wall of the Commanding Officer’s room. The museum also provides details on the 2.7 million explosive devices used by the US – 4.72 per person “based on the population of Okinawa at that time.” In case you were wondering! We also learn that 2,400 “human” bodies were recovered at the Navy Underground Headquarters.
There is so much we don’t know about this part of history! So interesting! Finished with the museum, we peruse the temporary exhibition outside the tunnels off all the new artifacts they have found in recent excavations. The artifacts are amazing in and of themselves -toothbrushes, Navy gas masks, parts of an eyeglass frame, a belt buckle, but the translations are equally amazing – or funny really. There are quite a few items that say “Something like a battery.” Ok. Something like? Or a battery? Which might it be? Too funny!!!
Then down into the tunnels we go. Fortunately it isn’t claustrophobic, a series of large tunnels that lead to the Commanding officers room, the staff rooms and the medic rooms. Some have these oddly carved tree like structures in them – almost like a faux support beam – made to look like nature or a natural structure. There is also the room where Vice Admiral Ota and his staff committed suicide, complete with all the bullet holes and shrapnel holes that caused the destruction and deaths.
We also see the poem left by Ota on the wall of his room. Continuing in our wanderings, we pass the medic room where they found an incredible number of bodies and the Petty Officer’s room where it was said that it was so crowded, the men had to rest and sleep standing up. The whole thing is just fascinating – and something of which we were just so unaware.
Finished with our explorations of the tunnels, we exit out into the garden area and wander around, looking at the different monuments and memorials to different important families of the era.
Our taxi boy (as I am calling him, because he is so young!!) is waiting right where he said he would be, and he readily takes us into town- to the Makisha public market – dropping us off a few blocks away and explaining directions on how to get there. What a sweet guy who we just lucked into! Now we wander! Along the main shopping street with the crazy architecture and silly huge figurines advertising something we’ve no clue about!
Then through the market, which is a series of lanes and alleyways, all covered, with tons of restaurants and cafes (not yet open) and souvenir shops with trinkets and candies and sweets and just about anything you could ever want – if you understood the language and could figure out what everything was! We’re happy to just meander about, window shopping as it were, looking for places to eat for later.
We follow the signs – carved into the street tiles with directions to different places – to the Tsuboya Pottery Museum, which is has fabulous displays of typical Okinawa pottery – and a whole explanation of Shisa – the Lions that ward off bad spirits and are typically Okinawan. Shisa is said to be representative of the Egyptian Sphinx, which you can sort of see in their proud demeanor. First introduced from China around the 13th to 15th centuries, the Shisa symbolizes power and protection from evil spirits. These “lions” can be seen everywhere – two each, one with an open mouth to ward off evil spirits, one with a closed mouth to keep good spirits in. These are found at the entrance to homes, shops, just about everywhere – and placed on rooftops as well.
After the museum, with its fabulous displays and “open space” area outside with a little temple area, we wander the streets of the pottery area, perusing the many, many stores selling everything from ceramic chopstick holders to cups and plates and a bazillion different version of Shisa. We actually end up buying a set of Shisa with an Ishiganto carving – the carved stones that are placed at intersections to ward off evil spirits and keep you safe. Perfect!
Then it is more wandering through the market, and then to the restaurant where the hawker was trying to sell us on eating earlier. It is a little teeny place – reminiscent of the Midnight Diner, only not so communal – at least not inside. But still, run by a sweet man who also plays the guitar outside on the patio type area at the top of the steps leading down into the restaurant. Here everything is either 400 Yen or 500 Yen – just take your pick! We choose gyoza – which is described as dumplings with feathers – okay! And also what is translated as an Okinawan specialty. Have no clue what it is – beside a specialty. Well, when in Rome….or Okinawa as the case may be!
What is delivered are delicious gyoza – sauteed, well, actually caramelized – and crispy and delicious. Probably chicken (thus, the feathers) but who knows? They were delicious, which is all that matters. The Okinawan special is some sort of savory crepe. We’re damned is we know what it was -there were chives and something else inside the batter – but whatever it was, it was excellent! Two Orion beers (the local beers) completed our fabulous Midnight diner-esque meal. The perfect lunch!
Back out on the streets, we head toward the ship, window shopping and gawking at all the things we’ve no clue about. We wander through some department type store that sells all sorts of sweets and treats – including some red sweet potato thing that is only available this time of year. And they can only sell 250 boxes a day before they must stop. Interesting? Everything looks great, but it is all expensive and there isn’t really anything we have to have, so we move on, finding a lovely little park to wander through, plus these wild bathrooms – the building looking like it was an old concrete structure that has been either bombed out just decayed into disrepair. But it is totally modern. So oddly Japanese!
Then we go across the street to the Fukushūen Garden, this fabulous Japanese garden with gorgeous ponds and tall tower structures and traditional temples and pagodas – right in the middle of the city! Beautiful and serene.
There is also an amazing waterfall that we can climb atop -along rough stone steps – for views across the park. We carefully pick our way down the stone slab steps and into the stone structure behind the waterfall. We could walk through it, but choose to stay dry and only take pictures and a video of the powerful water from a safe distance!
We continue on, meandering along paths through more ponds and beautiful Japanese structures. This is an amazing find right in the middle of the city. The other large famous garden might be bigger and have larger ponds, etc., but it is far out of the city center, and this little Fukushuen Garden is perfect for us!
Now we turn our sights back to the ship – with a diversion to the Naminoue Shrine. Along the way, we are looking for someplace to stop for an afternoon beverage – which let me tell you – are few and far between here. Most bars open at 9pm and stay open all night, but afternoon drinking? Not a thing here. Or at least not a very popular thing. We actually end up stumbling upon the On The Waves restaurant and bar, about a block from the shrine. This little place is just a typical divey sort of bar/restaurant here in Okinawa. Tiny inside with a bar area that wraps around the kitchen space. The owner has all sorts of little crafts and odd things sitting around (like these tiny chairs made from beer caps) as well as food and Orion, of course, beer. We’re in!
We start off inside, because the one little outside table was occupied. But the gentleman there finished his beer and told us the table was available (very sweet!) so we moved outside and hung out, on the sidewalk, enjoying our refreshing afternoon beverage. Lovely!
Then it is on to the park across the street – up the wooden staircase to the lush forested area with great views and the ever present tables and benches carved to look like trees (they are everywhere here, apparently).
The park is lovely, and a great place to walk, but we have our sights set on the Naminoue Shrine, which is luckily at the bottom of the park. A quick little walk and we are inside the shrine area which is the sacred area to offer prayers to Nirai Kanai (world of Gods) and each boat going in and out of the commerce base of Naha looked up to the shrine on top of this high cliff and prayed for a safe journey. It is quite lovely – and I did sneak a picture (shame on me!!) just to get the feel of the place.
As we were leaving, we decide to buy an amulet that will keep travelers safe. That will be coming with us everywhere from now on.
Then it is a lovely walk back to the ship, down along the little teeny beach with those weird tent like structures that have smoke coming out of a chimney, almost like a fireplace inside? Haven’t a clue what they were!
Walking down toward the main highway and intersection to the port drive, we pass the huge Shisa that guard the city – looking regal and frightening all the same. I love those Shisa and am so happy we have a pair all for ourselves!
Then it is back down the waterfront, passing the statues of the little boy and girl playing ball that I loved – and took a picture of – when we left this morning in the rain…
…and back onboard we go, for a lovely evening of gym, drinks at the Lido bar, dinner and then the cabin. Dancers are on tonight and we just aren’t into those shows. We’re hoping one day HAL will upgrade to the full production shows again, but until then? We’ll pass thanks. Hanging out, we end up hitting the hay early, as we now have an earlier call in Ishigaki tomorrow!
Andiamo 