Laundry picked up and put away, we climb the steps and walk up the steep drive to get to Bisma to await Ayu, who is picking us up at 1:30 to take us to their home to visit the family and the village.  She texts that she is running late – the traffic on Raya is always crazy this time of day – so we just hang out at the corner of our little soi and Bisma, watching all the Bules eat at ShamanaMama – which is always packed and busy.  We can’t really figure it out – the menu doesn’t strike us as all that great.  But, what do we know?

As we wait, Kadek is texting us via WhatsApp!  It’s midnight where he is!  He is so excited about us going to visit.  Then he calls!  He is too cute!  As I’m trying to talk to him – the connection is not that good – Ayu pulls up and we hop in their car to make the journey to the village, promising Kadek we will call him back.

Ayu has brought Kayla, their 8 year old daughter with her, and she is an absolute doll.  Shy as can be, so sweet. Barely speaks any English, but still can say thank you and please. We still talk to her like she can understand – the best way to learn, right?  Then Kadek calls again -and of course we need Kayla to help us with the phone to get him on video call!  We chat a bit through the drive as Kadek lays in his bottom bunk bed whispering into his headset (because they are 6 to a room on the Dawn and everybody has different sleep schedules).  We feel so taken care of!

It takes a good 45 minutes to get to the village where Ayu and Kadek live, with traffic and just distance and the little roads we need to take. We drive through the village, where Ayu points out the house (really a compound) where they first live and then drive down the little narrow lane toward the rice fields where they have bought their “new” house for just their family.  Kayla takes us inside, through the traditional ornamental doorway and into the equally traditional open air dwelling.  They have 4 rooms here, only 2 of which they are using currently.  One which is the living area where Kadek’s parents also sleep and Kadek and Ayu’s bedroom where the kids also sleep.  There is also a big temple (Kadek says it is only a small temple, we must politely disagree!) and an open air wood fired kitchen where Mom (Kadek’s mom) cooks – as well as a separate closed kitchen with all the updated amenities like a refrigerator, gas stove and cabinetry. 

It is a wonderful place, filled with love, as we can immediately tell with little Kadek (Alphonse – his middle name which they will call him when “big” Kadek is home – we guess). He is the spitting image of “big” Kadek and just so full of energy at 14 months – running all over the place, talking gibberish up a blue streak and in the loving care of Grandmother – it’s totally heartwarming and fabulous and wonderful to be here!

We meet Kadek’s mom and dad – who, as mentioned above, take care of the children, but also the rice fields.  Dad does all the work in the fields.  From morning to night – even sleeps out there occasionally.  Kadek has told him to retire, but he won’t hear of it.  Traditional Balinese – that is definitely the hard-working culture here.   

We spend a lovely time playing with Kadek and semi-talking, hand signaling to mom and dad who do not speak English.  Taking pictures of the kids, and of us all – well Ayu is taking a video – posing for a picture!  The kids are just so full of life and energy – they are amazing to watch.  Kayla is a girl after my (and my mom’s) own heart – she is sweet fiend – even going into the refrigerator for a piece of bread onto which she pours chocolate sauce.  Yes!  We are friends for life!  Oh, and talking to Kadek who is video calling once more.  It is so sweet to see him talking to little Kadek and to Kayla – and really sort of heartbreaking that he isn’t here now.  His vacation is in a month, which will be here so quickly, we know, but it must feel like forever to him, especially talking with us with his family all around.  ☹

After our visit, Ayu walks us through the village to their first home, which is where all of Kadek’s family still lives.  There are 7 families here, each with their own room in what we are calling a “compound.”  One of the older cousins is learning English and wants to practice with us, so she takes us on a tour of the house and the temple.  Her English is superb – with explanations of each temple, the prayers they make each day and what is called when make the prayers. 

After we greet everyone, we leave to walk the streets back to the rice fields, stopping at a warung right next to the family home that more family owns and runs for some ice tea (we decline), some jelly (sort of Jello) for Kayla and one of the cousins we have managed to pick up along the way, plus this fermented yogurt sort of drink called Yakult that Ayu says is good for the digestion.  Ok, she says it is good to help you poop – yep – I’m in.  I’m in desperate need.  And, wait a minute, this stuff is really, really good!  We’ve seen it all over SE Asia, little teeny bottles that look like miniature milk bottle replicas – it is amazing, sweet and tangy and creamy.  I’m hooked.  Let’s hope it works its little bottle magic!

Back through the village we go, passing by their house once more and just down the block to the rice fields.  We walk past a big house with a huge temple (where there is a ceremony going on) then into the rice fields where we walk along the berms with the girls in front of us picking flowers and handing them to both of us.  Ayu greets and talks to all the farmers as we walk on through to the back of the fields where the family’s 8 fields are located. Dad is already there – of course Ayu says, he is always working! – and she proudly points out the 8 fields they own, as well as the cow barn (they have 2 cows) and the sleeping shed where dad sometimes stays.  The ducks aren’t around, but we know they are there somewhere.  They have a ton of ducks that are used to clean out the fields of insects and other invasive species, but also to sell to restaurants for crispy duck dinners.  Yum.  Ed’s all about that!  Ayu tells us of one restaurant who buys her ducks, which is on the other side of the Monkey Forest.  A bit far for us to walk, but who knows where we end up for lunches?

Back at the house, the cousin is picked up by her family and we spend some more time with Kadek and mom, before heading to a late lunch, early dinner.  But before we go, Ayu treats us to some Balinese cakes, little sweet cookie sandwiches covered in sesame seeds.  Oh so good – I could eat my weight in these!  Probably a good thing we only have 2 each!  Even though Ayu says she’ll buy us some to take with us, we politely decline – we don’t need more sweets! We have quite enough already, thank you.

As we are getting ready, Kayla grabs a little plastic bag and proceeds to put all our flowers into it, then presents it to us to take with us.  What a smart little girl she is!  And too, too precious!

Bagged bouquet in hand, the 4 of us hop in the car to go to the most famous suckling pig restaurant in the area (because we have told Ayu and Kadek how much we like suckling pig) and while Ayu invited mom to come with Kadek as well, she has declined to some because she isn’t really a fan of suckling pig.  Truly I think it is just too much for her with Kadek and dealing with us since we only speak English, and who can blame her?  I’d rather stay home than deal with something similar to be honest.  So off we go, the 4 musketeers, to feast on pig!

It takes a long time to get to the restaurant, which turns out to be this huge place with 2 levels that could probably seat 250+ in the middle of really nowhere.  And it is packed – at 4:30 in the afternoon.  Kayla chooses to go upstairs to sit, and we dutifully follow up to a wonderful open air seating area where we have great views over the rice fields surrounding us and the mountains in the distance.  Since we’d already been to Ibu Oka we knew what to basically expect, so we ordered a special plate to share, which was absolutely delicious. Ibu Oka was good, this was far better.  The pork was juicy and tender, the fried pork amazing and the crispy skin so flavorful and crispy, not too hard for me to eat.  Excellent.  Of course, Kayla had to have dessert first.  See?  Girl after our hearts.  Then a kid’s meal portion of the special dish, of which she gave half to Ayu, but at least she ate all her rice and actually ordered more (which Ayu says is not the norm). 

It is a lovely meal, with excellent company in a beautiful setting.  A perfect afternoon spent with friends.  Our only wish was that Kadek was there as well.  Maybe next time.  We can only hope. 

On the way out, Ed buys a cool orange t-shirt, then after a small fight over the bill (yeah, no way Ayu is paying) we hop back into the car for the long drive back to Ubud.  The traffic, as is always at this time of day, is immense and we refuse to let Ayu drive us all the way back to our street where it will take her forever to get out and get home.  Instead, we have her drop us at the Monkey Forest by the little scooter bridge so we can walk the rest of the way home. It will be much easier for her to get out of Ubud proper this way.

We say a sad goodbye to Ayu and Kayla, sending our hugs back to little Kadek and mom and dad – hoping we can see each other soon.  What an absolutely wonderful afternoon – and so sweet for Ayu to give up half of her day off to spend with us and tour us around. Such an amazing family.  We are really honored to have been able to spend time with Kadek’s wonderful family.

Back at the house, we just hang out and spend a nice evening reading and watching TV – too full to really eat, although Ed does have some eggs and chicken sausages.  I’m happy with a piece of toast, I’m still stuffed from all the food today.

And that is how we end an incredibly fabulous day, just hanging around the villa.  Tomorrow, our other Kadek, our Balinese son, and his brother will be here to pick us up and take us touring around temples and ancient villages.  We’re getting the true local treatment this week!