1/17 – Bang Pa-In Palace and Pattaya

On the bus, ready to go by 8, we head out into Ayutthaya for one of our last touring stop – Bang Pa-In Palace. This Palace has a legendary beginning – built in the early 1600’s, it is on an island where King Keathostsarot was shipwrecked and lived with the help of a woman who befriended him on the island. They had a son (illegitimate), who eventually became King Prasat Thong. This King built the original palace as an homage to his mother. After the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767, the palace fell into disrepair. King Rama IV revived the palace in the 1860’s to prove to the world that the King of Bangkok could have a palace outside the city just like other Kings. King Rama V completed the construction. Rama VI used the palace; Rama VII didn’t and the palace became neglected again. Then the Queen of the late Rama IX and her daughter led a renovation and restoration to what we are visiting today. Storied!

Odum starts us off with a tour down the wide promenade along the lake to the Ho Hem Monthian Thewarat or the Golden Palace. Dedicated to King Prasat Thong, whose name literally translates into King of the Golden Palace, this small stone palace sits majestically alongside the lake – with wonderful views across to some of the other more “out” buildings in the complex.

Heading out toward the main temples and museum, we make a stop at the pagoda overlooking temple which is under renovation – and feed the fish. Yes. We are feeding the fish once again. This will become a thing with us throughout this trip, as you will soon see!

Continuing on with the Odum guided tour, we cross the “doll” bridge (so named for the statues, I guess?) then circle around past pagodas and the Golden royal Residence, ending up at the Ho Withun Thasana tower which was the observatory built by King Chulalongkorn, used as a lookout tower.

Here, we are released to our own recognizance, although Odum is going to be walking through the palace grounds and we are welcome to join him. We decide that we’ll catch up with him later and head off on a lovely walk through these spectacular grounds. Circumnavigating the grounds, we along lovely shaded paths, past the Chinese Pavilion in the lake, and all the different residences built for all the Kings’ different Queens and Princesses.

We also pass a heartbreaking cemetery where King Chulalongkorn’s wife and daughter are buried. They were both drowned when their ship capsized in the Nonthaburi province. So sad, but the pictures of the daughter are the worst/best.

Done touring, we stop off for a cappuccino in the gift shop at the entrance, managing not only to score a table, but also to get in line at the right time. Another group is behind us and they take the longest time ordering – so long in fact that most of our group don’t have time for anything. Speed tourists take the win!

Our next stop today is the Gem’s Gallery, which is a totally 1st class production – if not totally tourist trap! We are escorted into the gallery and shown to a theater for a 10 minute video on the production of the gems and jewelry here. Very high tech, and very impressive. But, in the end, it’s a Gem factory. We head straight to the cafe for a beer – which we had to buy on our own!!! They don’t even give you drinks if you are perusing their expensive jewelry. Wow! Nonetheless, the beers are perfect for us and we can hang out for the last little bit with Patty and Terry who are leaving now for a night in Bangkok before flying out to Kuala Lumpur tomorrow to meet some friends.

After the drinks, we head to the bathroom where the Ads they have hanging there are the best! OMG! Anything and everything you would ever want in terms of sexual herbal aids -and pictures to go along with it! The best is the one that says it is a “stimulant for women, restoration of virginity.” Really? Because…well..why? Ok, so the Gem’s Gallery credibility just went down a few notches. You can’t sell high dollar gems and snake oil at the same time without taking a hit to your credibility. Nope.

Four hours later we arrive in Pattaya. Odum takes us on a quick circle tour of the main roads so we can get acclimated to where we are and what is around us, then gets us all checked into the hotel – which is quite lovely – even if it is Pattaya.

After getting settled, we wander out onto the streets looking for a street market or something for a quick dinner. Unfortunately I get a little turned around and we end up at the mall – which is this massive, monstrous structure built to mimic an Airport Terminal – with different countries represented on each floor and a Passenger Jet out front. Oh, and runway lights. Yes. Runway lights.

We give up on the street food and start to explore the mall which has a huge array of food options. Dismissing all the Western food, we end up at Tam-mai-yud, where hardly anyone speaks English and we get away with pointing at pictures of what we want! Hey – but, it works and we have an excellent traditional Thai meal of crispy prawn spring rolls (Best presentation ever!), Pad Thai and a fried seafood salad.

Back at the hotel with plenty of time to spare, we hang out in the lobby waiting for the group of us who are going to the Lady Boy Cabaret show. Odum arranges for a Songthaew and we all pile in for the quick ride to the theater. He has purchased VIP tickets for us, which provides us with one drink (a water) and gets us in the 2nd row. Which is prime viewing for the show.

This is what we’ve all been waiting for – the Alcazar Cabaret is one of the oldest and best shows in Thailand. Started by a friend of Odum’s to organize the Lady Boys and keep them off the streets, this thing has ballooned into a major production. And seriously? One of the absolute best. It was like watching a Broadway production. Maybe even Radio City Hall Rockettes. That good. No photos were allowed during the production.

Afterward, as we are all milling about waiting for our Songthaew back to the hotel, the Lady Boys are out in the parking lot taking pictures and tips from the attendees. So of course, we surreptitiously (and really not so surreptitiously) take photos from a mezzanine above the parking lot. Can you believe these are boys? Amazing – and the talent? Doubly amazing!

Quite an excellent end to our last group traveling day! Back at the hotel, we have a night cap in the bar, then head up to the balcony for a beautiful end to a beautiful day.

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