11/6 – Cartagena on a Sunday

We’ve been here before.  Quite literally and figuratively!  Because it is Sunday none of the rental car agencies are open, so we are staying here in town with really nothing planned except wandering around.  Oosterdam arrives at 11am and we are one of the first off, heading straight to Arqua – the National Museum of Underwater Archeology – where, yes, we’ve been before.  But admission is free on Sunday and it is an interesting museum, so we stroll through the exhibits, most of which haven’t changed except now we can touch the interactive displays (our first visit was right after COVID and everything was roped off!).  The displays are actually really interesting as they show everything from how these ships were found, explored, taken out of the sea and preserved for research.   

It’s an interesting visit and something to pass the time.  We do actually find something new – or at least that we missed the first visit – an anchor from an 18th C frigate that ran aground off the coast of Virginia!  After years of court battles to retrieve it, in 2000, the US Federal Court recognized the rights of Spain over the shipwrecks (there were 2 frigates sunk there) and allowed the return of the anchor for display here.  Pretty cool.

Visit concluded, we head outside to the sound of motorcycles revving their engines.  Turns out there was some sort of motorcycle race going on around a loop made out of the city streets along the waterfront.  Crotch rockets of all design whipped around the streets with frightening speed and little to protect the spectators except those red plastic security fences and a few strategically placed straw bales.  Yep.  I’m standing behind a big, sturdy metal light pole. If one of those vehicles manages to slide my way, they’ll hit the pole first hopefully protecting me in the process!

After a few heats, we put the deafening noise behind us and wander around the waterfront area to scope out the seafood restaurants that occupy the area.  We settle on Techos Bajos, a local establishment since 1950.  Fortunately, we are early and can sit outside on the huge patio.   But this is obviously a popular place as they have the entryway roped off with red velvet ropes and you must wait there in line for someone to allow you access.

We have a wonderful lunch of Croquetas de Cocido, Gambas Ajillo (grilled shrimps and garlic) and Pulpo Plancha, which is a huge amount of perfectly grilled and seasoned octopus.  Yum!

Stomachs full, we return to our wandering and meandering, heading back toward the motorcycle madness to watch another race, then up the hill to the Castillo de la Concepcion.  We visited the actual castle on our last Sunday visit but figured it would be good exercise to just walk up the hill to the castle and enjoys the views over the city. 

And exercise it is.  Phew.  But it is a lovely day and a nice walk up the steep hill, passing the exterior fortifications of the castle and the Monument to Alfonso Torres, whoever that is! We make it to the top, passing the little fountain with the ducks and around to the viewpoint that overlooks the Roman theater. There are beautiful vistas up here and we take full advantage of the beautiful day and the bird’s eye views.

Walking down the other side of the hill toward town, we wind our way around toward the Roman theater where we can get even better photos of the old Roman ruins.  It is incredible that they were only discovered when developers were demolishing other buildings and trying to build on the site. 

Rounding a corner, past the theater, we are treated to lovely views over the Plaza Ayuntamiento and the beautiful governmental building we may one day be able to tour.  If we ever stay in town when it isn’t a Sunday that is!

We also stumble upon a recreation of a Roman Garden, complete with a mural that recreates the sites that would typically be seen in that age.  Its really quite a lovely little find stuffed up here between buildings on the steep street leading from the theater to the town level.

From here we wind our way down into town, past more murals, old Moorish and Spanish architecture, the odd façade buildings (there are a few in this town – just the facades, maybe working on them to rebuild, maybe not, just odd) and lots and lots and lots of people. 

Finally tired of slaloming through the crowds we stop for an afternoon refreshment at Monkiria, a wild looking restaurant all decked out in jungle theme with a huge baboon statue inside the door.  The tagline is “wild cocktails” – and while we are only here for beer and wine, we figure why not?  The place is empty both inside and out (so much so I had to ask if they were open) but it is perfect for us – there are tables outside, right on Plaza San Sebastian – the perfect place to people watch.

And we are treated to great people watching too!  Not only the contingent of Cartagenians out on a Sunday, meeting and greeting all their friends, but also a group of Spanish couples all dressed up in vintage costumes.  They were apparently on a walking tour with one gentleman explaining the statue in the plaza, and garnering a lot of attention.  They were quite accommodating though, with lots of people asking for photos, including a couple of crew members.  Very fun – and very sweet!

Refreshed from our beverages, we continued our wanderings around the city, stopping for a photo with some beautiful purple flowers (a tradition for us since Mykonos all those years ago!) and then heading to the waterfront to just walk around in the beautiful weather some more.

Unfortunately, the waterfront promenade ends pretty quickly on the west side of the harbor, and we were forced inland. A happy surprise though, because we stumbled upon the Isaac Peral museum displaying the first known “submersible ship” built in 1888.  The museum is closed, but the submarine replica is on full display and can be seen through the huge windows of the museum.  Totally cool.

Circling back along the water, we make our way back to the ship for our traditional afternoon of gym, drinks at the pool bar with Alan then dinner in the crazy crowded dining room. We need a beeper again tonight, hanging out at the Pinnacle Grill bar until we are called….this is just crazy!  The service is fine, and the food ok, but the wait and the crowds are just nuts.  The Asst. Maitre’d came by our table and chatted with us, telling us that they had 25 staff leave on vacation and only got 9 replacements.  No wonder it is such a nuthouse!  Poor things, they are running their butts off. 

We make it through dinner – I mean we have all the time in the world and we only order 2 courses – head to the show, which is the “production” show, but only dancers and pre-recorded music.  Eh.  The dancers are super good, but we’re spoiled by Norwegian – their shows are just spectacular.  Then to the Ocean Bar for a nightcap, the balcony for a beautiful sail away and our 2nd day aboard Oosterdam is done.

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.