Another new port for us – Alicante is a pretty but sprawling city on the coast of Spain.  Known for its beaches, we of course are planning a different day around the city.  We take the shuttle to the port entrance, then strike out into the city on the wide palm lined promenade, gazing up at the castle perched atop the cliffs above the city, passing the weird Picasso-esque iron statue before plopping down at the first café for our traditional cappuccino.  Even with our dawdling over cappuccino, we’ve still got plenty of time before the first planned stop – Museu de Fogueres d’Alacant – opens, so we scope out its location then walk another 4 blocks up the street for the Central Market. Holy cow – this place is monstrous!  Situated on 2 immense floors, everything you could ever want is here. The top floor is the meat and cheese section with tons and tons of shops (and fairly pricey prices – we were a little surprised how expensive it is here) the lower level is seafood and vegetables and flowers and just about everything else you could want. Amazing. 

And a good time waster as we are now perfectly situated to go back to the Museu de Fogueres – the Bonfire Museum.  This museum is dedicated to the Fogueres festival that is held every year from June 20 – 24.  This festival began in 1928 and has continued on today, with the building of these “effigies” and then monumental bonfires to burn them to the ground. The effigies in the museum are the ninots (effigies) which are voted most popular and saved every year from the conflagration.

These ninots are just fascinating.  They are huge and so detailed, amazing representations of different stories, people, characters.  And the museum tells the history of the festival through a series of informational plaques and photos of the earliest ninots.  Even from the earliest days, these ninots were amazingly creative and detailed and intricate.  Even though they say thousands of people come to this festival, it would be a really fun thing to see live – maybe, kind of, sort of……crowds.  Not our thing!  Think we’ll just look it up on YouTube.  LOL.

At any rate, it was a fascinating display and wonderful time exploring all the different figures and history.  And perfectly timed – we finished up just as a huge group was coming in the door.  Timing is everything!

Next up, the MARQ – the Museo Arqueologico de Alicante.  We walk uphill (almost all the way – phew!) just past the entrance to the Castillo de Santa Barbara and around to the museum housed in the old hospital building.  The museum itself is free, but a special exhibition on the Gladiators of Rome costs 3 Euro each, which we gladly pay (museum entrance fees are so much more economical here vs. Britain.  Sheesh!) The exhibit is well worth the cost with a wonderful history of the Colosseum, how it was built, how it was used and of course detailed explanations of the gladiators themselves.  (Did you know there were 4 types of Gladiators? Nope, neither did we!) 

There are also lots of fascinating relics – including gladiator’s armor and shin guards and helmets and old swords.  How did they find these things? And then keep them?  That part always amazes me. 

The other thing that amazes us are the vivid frescoes that have been preserved, like the one on this funerary slab depicting a fighting scene. 

We spend a lot of time looking through the exhibits and reading all the explanations of  items, as well as what happened on the day of the contests.  It was a full day of events starting in early morning with a procession with the gladiators and the hunters, then there were the animal fights and hunting with both tame and wild animals. Around noon they held executions of the condemned, followed by, of all things, performances by dwarfs or comic actors.  The afternoon sessions were all gladiators.  The shows could last for days – once lasting 5 days in Pompeii.  Those crazy Romans!

After thoroughly scouting the museum, whose permanent exhibits were equally interesting with a 2 story reenactment of an underwater archeological dig and other full size replicas of ships and other interesting artifacts, we sat down to reconnoiter lunch. The museum is located in a more local area – not right in the heart of the old town and touristy district, so we thought we might have better luck finding something more traditional.  There was a restaurant a few blocks away called El Llobarro that looked interesting and said it was open.  So we headed there.

The door the restaurant was open and the hours posted said they were open, but when we walked in, there was absolutely no one there.  The chef was there working and one waiter (but he didn’t really have a uniform on or anything). I asked if they were open, he said yes and showed us to this little table for two.  It was a beautiful place, very elegant with white covers on the chairs and black table cloths.  Our table was set already, but others weren’t and as we waited for our food the waiter was setting up big round tables in the middle of the place. I swear the place wasn’t open and they just took pity on us 2 foreigners! Too sweet – and a wonderful meal to boot! 

We ordered charcuterie – which was a wonderful plate full of Jamon Iberico – and croquettas – small and perfectly done, almost delicate, with a fantastic pureed aioli and hot mustard drizzle – and calamari tapas, which were quite good and light and fresh.  An excellent meal. And while we were eating, so was the staff!  They had their staff lunch at a table a little way away from ours.  Priceless!

Next, to walk off our lunch, we decided to go explore the castle way up on top of the hillside. We thought about walking up, but then took the easy way out and walked around to the seafront to take the elevator up.  The line was out the door, and there was a sign that said “1 hour wait.”  Which made all of us in line nervous.  A couple of the people in front of us walked up to peek at the line and found that it wasn’t that long at all – only about 10 in front of us.  One of the ladies said that a bunch of people left because of the sign. Good for us!  Finally one of the guys in line took the sign down and gave it back to the girl manning the ticket machines.  Funny.

It only took maybe 15 minutes to get to the elevator, and then up we went.  Great bargain (only 4 euros for me, Ed was free!).  There isn’t much left to the castle part, a few buildings and hallways.  But it has been expanded and changed over the years and there are some interesting maps that show the progression.  The real draw to the castle are the views across the city.  We are way up high, it’s a clear day and you can see forever. And forever is how this city stretches out in every direction right up to the ocean.  It’s huge! 

We spend our time wandering about on the different levels of parapets and walls, snapping away and playing with the gladiator statues!  Especially the two that were so sweet, but I had to beg them not to fight over me.  Haha.

Instead of standing in what was now a huge line for the elevator, we just walked down along a series of trails and pathways, ending up at the first entrance to the park that we had spied earlier in the day as we walked up to the MARQ museum.  Full circle as they say! 

Now down around sea level, we just meandered through the streets, looking for a café to have a beer and wine – which of course we found on a little square – as we headed for the Carrer de las setas – the street of mushrooms!!  Started in 2013 with 3 mushroom “trees”, the project was funded by the city to help rejuvenate the street and help the businesses there during an economic downturn.  Now a huge attraction, the  little pedestrian walkway of yellow brick (yes, yellow brick road) is lined with shops and cafes and packed with people.  Very fun and whimsical, if not crowded. Definitely has turned this street around in less  than 10 years, that is for certain. 

Back on the waterfront, we take more pictures of the Picasso-esque statue there, then head to the shuttle for the ship.  There is a huge line there, so we punted and just walked back.  It isn’t that long of a walk and it is a very nice, if not toasty, day – so why not?

Another successful day – now onto Barcelona.