10/6 – Surprise day in Amsterdam

With a whole day at our disposal, we don’t have to rush to go wander around Amsterdam. Because we will be back again next year for a couple of days, today we are staying in town and just meandering around. Our first stop is the National Maritime Museum, a few minutes walk from the port. It is a beautiful if not cold and windy day, but still pleasant enough walking through the waterfront area, across canals onto leafy streeets leading to the museum.

We arrive at the museum early, gee, who is surprised? And occupy ourselves with pictures of the harbor area, boats and waterfowl floating around as we await the 10am opening time. Once inside, the lovely staff lady gives us a brochure, while chatting us up about our stay and what we are going to do today, then directs us downstairs to the lockers for our coat and backpack storage. Oh my! The lockers! Totally digital age – you scan the barcode on your ticket, select a large or small locker, and like magic, the locker number appears on the scanner screen. You can find the appropriate locker as it now has a blinking green light under the locking mechanism. Too cool. to retrieve your belongings, you scan the code again and then choose open and release. Gotta love technology!

Belongings stowed, we wander out into a very educational and informative museum. Set up in exhibit spaces around a large enclosed courtyard (North, East and West – using the wind directions as a guide), we wander through displays chronicling everything from the history of how the Netherlands became a maritime nation to these amazing tapestries that tell the story of the Battle of Soleby in 1687. Apparently, this is a battle with no winners, but all the participants claim victory. England thinks they won since the Dutch were the first to withdraw. The Netherlands thinks they won since the English could no longer blockade the Dutch coast. And the French? Well, they just think they won period. Don’t really even know the reason! Who knows, but the Netherlands is neither a French or British territory, so what does that tell you? On with the exploration we go, with some really cool artifacts, like silver vases and engraved crystal goblets that keep us occupied in the North wing of the museum.

On the ground level of the North exhibit hall is the door to the outer docks where a full size replica of the Dutch East Indies Company Amsterdam ship is afloat. A merchant vessel launched in 1749, she was sailing to Jakarta, but never made it and was beached on the coast of Hastings, UK. The shipwreck remains there to this day and can be seen at low tide off the coast. Touring the replica is just like being on the real thing – minus the rough seas that is! The detail is amazing and we have a blast crawling all over the deck – out to the prow, hello “Titanic” photo – sort of, going below deck to the cramped storage and living quarters, ducking low, basically duck walking through the sleeping area with the deck not more than 4 feet from the floor to ceiling. Totally fun and educational.

Equally as interesting is the Royal Barge that is housed in a completely enclosed storage area across the dock. this is the one and only original Royal Barge built in 1818 for King William I. While he never used it, the Royal family who came after him did, the last time it was afloat being during the silver wedding anniversary of Queen Juliana and Prince Bernhard in 1962. Now it remains here, in the specially designed boathouse for museum visitors to view. It is really amazing – and opulent – with gold decorations (the oars have gold inlay!!!) and an incredible figurehead of Neptune and three Tritons. Royalty! Such an interesting concept, the traditions, the trappings. So hard for Americans to comprehend.

This has been great! And we still have the East and West exhibits to visit! Visit we do, walking through so many yacht models and old maps from the 17th C and ship decorations, plus old navigational instruments. Truly a wonderful collection. Oh, and don’t forget about the more whimsical “tale of the whale” with a life size replication of a fisherman harpooning a life size whale! Fun.

Also, in each wing, there are these fabulous wax ships hung from the ceiling, with long tapers on their decks, almost like masts. Incredible pieces of art.

Now it is time to wander. Heading off toward the Oude Kerk, we once again get a lovely view of the harbor, then cross more canals (of course! It’s Amsterdam!) all the while snapping away, capturing the wonderful architecture and the scenic street view.

Arriving into the historical center of town, we meander through the cobblestone lanes looking for a restaurant for lunch. Most outdoor areas are filled to capacity, but we do manage to find space at a corner bar. We look at the menu, but can’t quite figure it out. As it turns out, this is more a bar – you order alcohol from them and order food through a QR code from the basically “fast food” restaurant across the canal. Eh, nah. We’ll keep going. We eventually end up at Argentango Steakhouse, because, well, it is open and not crowded (probably not the best choice since we have dinner at Moderno tonight, but any port in a storm….). Actually turns out to be a good choice. It has a lovely ambiance, all stacked stone walls and interesting art. The menu is great – we end up with Empanadas carne and Chorizo, which is perfect for us to share and we’re not so stuffed as to not be able to eat tonight.

Lunch handled, we’re back out on the streets, making our way to the kerk. It is a massive building, built in 1306, the oldest building in Amsterdam. Surprisingly, all around it (literally the cobblestone lane that surrounds the church) is the red light district with all the women in the windows. Crazy. We don’t dare take pictures, although we’re sure many people do. It is enough to just walk by and watch them, and wonder how in the world they ended up here, right across from the church? Ah well. Inside the church is just as massive and opulent with the typical soaring ceilings, wooden, the largest in Europe, which also have some beautiful frescoes, and spectacular stained glass windows. And of course the requisite grave stones. There are supposedly 2500 graves inside the church with 10,000 remains buried within.

There is also the Iron chapel which is weirdly designed. A small chapel with an iron circular staircase leading up to the roof, which of course isn’t odd in and of itself. What is odd is a small door placed about halfway up the wall with no means of access. Bizarre. As it turns out, this is where the city kept all its important documents in the early ages to protect them from marauders and/or natural disasters such as fire. Pretty wild, but how in the world did they get up there to access them?

On the way out, we had fun playing with a beheaded statue. Why was it beheaded? We think it had something to do with the reformation, but aren’t sure. It was oddly entertaining, regardless.

Now it is time to head back to the ship, through the cobblestone streets, past the wonderful Dutch architecture, including the “Pimp Steak” restaurant (ok, what can we say?) across canals, winding our way through the thousands of bikes parked on canal overpasses. It is a lovely walk on a sunshiny windy day.

Back aboard we do sail! Yay. Off the docks at 5pm and through the locks at 7:45. A lovely sail out.

Followed by a lovely dinner at Moderno – lots of salad so we don’t overstuff ourselves on the meat! Then the Magician show, who is really quite good and we cannot figure out his tricks!

And then it is back to the balcony and then to bed. Tomorrow Brugges.

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