There is another beautiful sunrise as we sail into Cartagena past the craggy cliffs with old fortifications and into the sweet little harbor – although red sky in the morning….let’s hope that prophecy doesn’t hold today.

Today we are driving up into the mountains to hike in the Espuna regional park. The car is at the train station, whihc is an easy walk, and before we know it, we are winding our way through the streets of Cartagena and out onto the highway leading up into the mountains. Before we get to the park though, we are in need of gas. So many of these cars do not have a full tank, and this one is a tad more empty than we would like for our journey into the hills. Now comes the challenge though – find a gas station! You’d think it would be easy, we’re on a pretty major 2 lane highway, but, um, no. Not a simple task.

The first place we find on Google maps is a cooperative – and we aren’t exactly dues paying members. Next option: A station in the opposite direction of the cooperative, but still in this area. Ok, we need gas, we must go. Finding the station is easy, getting the gas is another thing entirely. The gas pump doesn’t work. We try it. No go. A guy comes out of the station to do it. Nope. Not working. After multiple tries, including hitting it (kid you not) and turning it on and off, a lady comes out of the station, tells the guy to turn on the power from around the side of the building, and voila! Gas. Too funny (sort of) – and without a word of English spoken.

Finally back out on the highway with our now half full tank, we make our way through the flat farmland, turning off the highway on a narrow windy little road lined with Olive groves and villas, and finally begin our descent up into the hills that make up the park. We laugh all the way to the park at the GPS voice, which is pronouncing the route number RM2 as “Erm” 2 and N-340A become N “minus” 340A. At least there is levity!

GPS hilarity aside, it is a beautiful drive, culminating for us at least, at the Monastery of Santa Eulalia in the town of Tortona. Located at the bottom of the Espuna mountain, the sanctuary dates back to Medieval times and has now been converted into a little hotel, but still retaining the beautiful courtyard and single nave Hermitage covered in beautiful frescoes. The inside of that small little church packs a punch, as you’ll see in the photos below. The frescoes are amazingly detailed and fabulously well preserved. Gorgeous!

Wandering around, we end up finding the parking lot (we parked right out front of the monastery on the entrance road where others had parked), restrooms (thankfully) and a sign with a map of the Sendera del Corazon de Jesus – a trail we want to hike. Easier said than done. After trying to find the trail head, we end up walking through the terraced gardens, actually on the terraces where we don’t think we were supposed to be! We finally end up in the real garden where there are little wooden bridges over manmade streams and fountains on plazas.

Still trying to find the trails, we do manage to stumble upon the trail leading up to the Mirador de la Virgen Blanca, which leads up into the forest proper. What the heck? We’re here to hike – we’re going. And off we go, into the forest with incredibly gorgeous views of the hills and valleys surrounding us. it is an absolutely gorgeous day for a gorgeous walk through the green pines and rolling hills.

Returning to the monastery we spy the Corazon de Jesus statue – across the valley on the hill opposite us! Darn it! Oh well, we had a lovely walk on this side of the mountain, and truly? Looking at it up there on the top of that mountain? Nah, we wouldn’t have wanted to climb up there anyway!

Back down in the garden, we wander along the terraces a bit more, with Sunny finally coming out for some sunshine….

…then hopped in the car and headed down to the town of Totana proper to grab some lunch. We had scoped out a restaurant with a great menus, but as our luck would have it – actually our scheduling because we do like to eat earlier rather than later – they were not open for another 45 minutes. Pooh. Looking for an alternative, we walk the streets, but didn’t really find anything, so we headed back to where we parked the car to reconnoiter. As it turns out, there was a little cafe on the corner right near the car that is open, so we decide to head there.

Talk about a local choice! No menu, English is just a concept. We ordered the whole thing verbally in Spanish with the waitress giving us options for the bocadillo! Yay, super fun. And the bocadillo was monstrous with tons of jamon and queso and tomato – perfect for the two of us to share. They were out of white wine, uh oh, but she had an excellent rose, so I’m on in. Beer, wine, sandwich – 7 euros. God I love Spain!

Then it is back up into the mountains, to another part of the park where the road was so narrow we couldn’t figure out how anyone could pass in the other direction!  Fortunately only 1 car did, and we made it. But still. the scenery was magnificent and we stopped often for photos out across the valleys and the mountains in the distance. Beautiful.

We ended up a the visitor’s center where a very helpful ranger gave us a map and told us there was a flat walking path that started right outside the building, and would take us to the Fuente de Hilo, a restaurant we figured would never be open, but was. So we decided, what the heck, we’ll head that way. The Ranger’s idea of flat and ours are not the same! It wasn’t terribly steep, but there were still uphill sections on that path that gave us another workout. At least it was a real path and very well kept right along the road. Uphill parts notwithstanding, it was a nice little walk through the forest, passing by the old park headquarters currently under renovation, as well as the Casa de las Marina, which was a hotel-hostel originally built in 1924 to promote tourism in Sierra Espuna. Over the years it was used for sailors, who after many months at sea, could enjoy the mountains with their families. Eventually it was taken over by the Navy to use a s a vacation residence until 1980 when it was closed permanently. And while in a state of obvious disrepair (and fenced off so no visiting), the place in its heyday sounds as if it was a beautifully decorated hotel Tiled baseboards from Seville, marble staircase, stained glass windows and a circular pool outside. Plus – the cost of a room and board? 14 pesetas. Bargain!

Ending up at the restaurant, we figured it was a nice day, we had time, might as well have more snacks. Plopping down on the patio overlooking the forest and the road, we ordered a plate of Serrano Jamon and cheese,  2 croquettas, a beer and wine and enjoyed the sunshine and warm temps. A nice reward for all our hiking. As we are sipping our drinks,, we are also reward with a fox sighting! Obviously fearless (or domesticated), he strolled right down the road, then came up on the terrace next to the restaurant and very calmly, and nicely, sat for photographs.

After our snacks and wildlife spotting, we headed back past the car park to explore this old house we had spied from teh road on our way in. Turns out it is a Boy Scout camp, along with a statue of Mariano Serrano, apparently a famous Eagle scout and Spanish explorer. The lodge is old and rustic, built in 1915 of sturdy stones and wooden doors and trim where Ed enjoys reliving his youth!

then it is back in the car or the drive back down the mountain, with all the gorgeous views looking over the plains and valleys…

…, and into Cartagena proper to drop the car and walk back to the ship for the rest of the afternoon.

As we are hanging out waiting to sail, we are treated to a Spanish Submarine sailing. We have never ever seen an active duty sub sail, and it was amazing to see how the a lot of the crew was up on the top of the sub as it sailed through the marina. Really cool.

Back to our evening activities, gym, skip the restaurant in favor of the buffet (of course – but especially because it is formal night and we are not getting dressed up for icky lobster and long lines), then the production show which turned out not to be a production show at all, but the quartet guys who we have seen a million times aboard a bunch of different ships. They are great, but by now we know their entire set by heart, so….. Then back to the balcony for a lovely sunset.