Breakfast in the room, from our stockpile of croissants and meats, then out on the streets heading for Plaza Mayor and the Palace Real.  Of course we stop at Asturias for our cappuccino, then meander our way up Calle Atocha to the main square, Plaza Mayor. Which of course is huge and beautiful and lit perfectly for photos.  Oh, and yes, already busy even at a little before 10 in the morning.

Photo stop done, we continued on to Palace Real, the royal palace of Spain, and the largest palace in Western Europe coming in at a mere 135,000 square meters.  Oh yeah. Huge!  We hadn’t purchased our tickets in advance, not knowing exactly if we’d be able to make it here with all our other plans, so we stood in the general ticket line, which honestly moved just as quickly as the pre-purchased line.  We were in line when the palace opened, and one of the first inside to view the splendor.  Sadly, we can’t take pictures in many of the areas, really just outside and the entrance hall are allowed to be photographed, which was a shame because this place was incredible! 

Huge, yes, but opulent?  Oh my, it puts every church, cathedral and other palace we have ever seen to shame!  The gold, the silver, the china!  One whole room was devoted to just the royal dining accoutrements.  There was an entire room that was made from porcelain – the walls were porcelain, the ceiling, everything!  A couple of different throne rooms, bedrooms, dining halls, it was over the top.  We kept saying, no wonder the Spanish people revolted against the monarchy!  It’s one thing to visit The Biltmore and all it’s splendor, but the citizens didn’t pay for that like they did for this place.  Seriously crazy! And ok, I snuck some photos when nobody was looking – how could I not?????

Finished with the tour, we wander around the huge courtyard outside and go to the viewing platform (the top of a set of stairs) to look out over the parkland that the Royals decried would be green in perpetuity.  At least they did some things right.  You can see the area that is forested and how it borders up against the city – but it can never be built upon. A nice gesture.

We wandered through the treasury with the royal Crown and Scepter – those alone could feed a country for a year – and other treasures, before heading back out into the sunshine and to the Almudena church and crypt.  The crypt was gorgeous – it was more like a cathedral than a crypt, which incredible stained glass windows with which I became obsessed (as you can see in the following photos).

There were crypts in the floor, of course, most made out of engraved marble. But one was all forged iron or steel or bronze, and very beautiful.  We were so curious as to whose it was and how they were allowed, out of all the other crypts to have theirs in metal.  We guess money was somehow involved, isn’t it always?

Next we went upstairs to the actual cathedral which was huge with gigantic arched columns and a soaring ceiling.  Here thought the stained glass windows are all modern.  Interesting, but not anywhere near as beautiful as the crypt windows.  The organ was immense.  I don’t know that we’ve ever seen a bigger one.  And there was this creche on one side of the chapel with stairs leading up to it – we were lucky enough to be able to get up there all alone, without anyone else, to snap some photos.  The whole layout and mixed styles of this place was fascinating and probably deserves a little more research into why and how it became designed the way it is.  Maybe one day we’ll get to that.  LOL. 

Done with our sightseeing for the day, we retraced our steps to the Plaza to find the food market on the corner.  A typical food stall place, we got there a little before noon and there wasn’t a seat in the joint.  Totally packed.  The prices were actually decent, and the selection looked fantastic, but it was so jam packed with people, we figured we’d never get a seat and plus, who wants to eat in that environment?  We’d rather be outside – it’s a gorgeous day!  So on we marched.  Unfortunately, we are on a main boulevard heading back to Atocha and the restaurant choices are few and far between.  It is more a commercial/retail district.  We pass a couple of kebob places, but that’s not happening, until finally we stumble upon Guagon, a little bocadillo place with tables on the sidewalk and an intriguing menu.  Settling in we order beer and wine (of course) plus a pulled pork bocadillo (pulled pork has been showing up more and more all over the place here, we assume because it is a cheap cut of meat and with rising prices, cheaper bocadillos are a necessity) and a pastrami bocadillo of all things!  What the heck!  Turns out to be a great meal and perfect place to stop for our lunch.

Back at the hotel, we rest up a bit, organize the bags, then wander over to the botanical garden which has free entry on Tuesday after 2pm.  We queue up with the other folks who figured out the free entry deal and began our meanderings when they allow us in at 2pm on the dot.  The gardens are lovely, but it is the end of the season, so a lot of plants have already bloomed and been pruned.  There are a couple of nice flower areas and a wonderful little lily pond, plus a whole section with the different olive trees in Spain.  There is also an excellent Bonsai area and an art gallery with odd paintings where you would think the hot house would be.  Ah well – its free. 

We’re done rather quickly, but figure we’ll just head back to the hotel with a stop by Asturias for our afternoon beverage and snack.  We’re earlier than normal (well, one day normal!) and the place is packed to the gills.  Not a free seat. We end up standing at a two top waiting to order, when a family (who are obviously regulars) leaves and we hop on their table.  Our “beast” waiter is running around everywhere and runs past saying something about he can’t clean the table right now – and we’re yelling back at him “no problema,” “sin prisa.”  He’s so great!  Eventually he comes back to clean the table and take our order, then runs by with a plate of bread topped with Jamon, and shouts out “it’s free!”  Yeah, we know!  Too fun!  We’re going to miss this place!

Back at the hotel we strategize about dinner.  There is a restaurant called Bodega Rossell we want to go to, but we can’t make reservations, and typically Spanish, they don’t open until 7.  We knew they get super busy – we’d seen that at lunchtime, so we go there at 5 minutes to 7. There’s no one around. Hmmm….the door is open, so I pop in and ask if they opened at 7.  The waiter said yes in a minute. No problem. 

Ok!  We’re in! We grabbed a table and then….hung out. It was pure entertainment.  We got to watch them set up for the evening; watch more people grab tables; watch people come and go. Our sweet waiter guy comes over and gives us Spanish and English menus. I told him we could practice!!  By 7:30 (maybe) he comes back for our drink orders. And of course brought snacks – potato chips and mussels!  Ed was in heaven. And I didn’t mind the chips! We continued to watch. It was priceless. People jockeying for tables. Waiters running around, setting up tables, mixing people around. 

We ordered 2 more drinks finally because, well, heck, nobody was ordering food yet and we had finished our first drinks by now. This time we got salmorejo – this typical Spanish – or maybe Madrino – whipped tomato puree on a toast.  Oh my. So good!

A little after 8, we finally got the attention of the waiter and ordered. And trust me; if we didn’t get his attention? We’d still be sitting there!!  We got tostas:  chorizo and cheese (which turned out to be Jamon, but who’s paying attention?) And goat cheese and caramelized onions. I could have stopped right there it was all so good and filling!

But of course, we’d ordered more!  Ed got ox tail albondigos (meatballs) and I got artichokes with Jamon. Oh lord. Ed’s meatballs came in this awesome sauce, and of course we had bread. My artichokes were so done they turned into this yummy paste/spread, which was so rich and wonderful it was like artichoke puree. So good! With Jamon bits for crunchies. We were both stuffed when we finally waddled out of there. Thank heavens we didn’t have far to walk to the hotel, or maybe we should have had farther to walk – it might have helped walked off that meal.

Absolutely fantastic – our whole 3 days in Madrid.  We’re almost sorry to leave, but Zaragoza calls!  Tomorrow the bullet train.