5/28 – Paros

Another day, another Greek island.  Although this one, Paros, turns out to be way cooler than Mykonos – at least in our minds!  A much smaller island, with less of a party vibe and more natural feeling, as we are soon to find out after picking up our car from the rather unfriendly young car rental gal and heading out into the farmland north of town. Our first stop is Paros park, a nature park with hiking trails at the north end of the island. We make it there without any drama – it is way better driving on this island than Mykonos! Find a big sign with all the hiking routes and strike out along the beach past the amphitheater to begin a circle loop that is about 4km long.

It is all very scenic and peaceful and virtually free of people, save a few couples and families on the beach and in the water. But once we strike off inland – it is only us and the boulders and the pure blue sky.

Our original plan was to just find the loop trail, but while there is signage, it isn’t exactly the most informative – as proven by the trail sign here – #7? Not even on the map! What? Ah well, we’re changing plans – see that lighthouse way off in the distance? Yep – we’re going there. Its’ early, what the heck?

Onward we hike. It is hot, but not that bad and our hats really do help. The lighthouse is getting closer and closer and the views off to the other side of the island are simply spectacular.

The water is so crystal clear, you can see right down to the rocky seabed near the cliffs – and as we make our way to the top of the lighthouse outlook, the views open up and with nothing in sight but a lone boat way down there, plying the crystal blue waters.

Turing our sights back around, we retrace our steps, deciding not to take the trail that branches off to the right and should take us back to the car park. It would probably be the circle loop – but not know that for certain, and seeing no trail signs, well, we’re taking the safer route and just going back the way we came. We know where those trails take us. More beautiful scenery ensues, bye bye lighthouse….

….until we are back in the car, driving through the boatyard (actually right through it) and back on the road heading to Naoussa which is supposed to be a very picturesque town with a Venetian Castle guarding the harbor. Unfortunately, it is also a tourist-attracting crowded place – which we immediately skip and work our way back toward the more unpopulated sections of the island. Stopping on the way, of course, for a cappuccino at a little cafe we find on the side of the road. Too bad it is too early for lunch, because the food they are preparing here in the little kitchen (which you can see on your way to the bathroom) looks and smells yummy. But solo cappuccino for us right now. We have plans!

Now we are on our way to Lefkes, which is nestled up in the the mountains in the center of the island. Supposedly no many tourists find their way here – of course once we get there, navigate where to park – which is confusing and hard because of all the steep inclines and we’re in a stick shift – we find a whole ship’s tour there. Well, so much for no tourists. But regardless, it is a charming little town, all white washed and cobble stoned with lovely little garden courtyard and lanes. We spend a good amount of time taking pictures – as well as trying to find our way to the Agia Triada church which is supposed to be beautifully built out of all local Parian marble.

Unfortunately that is a no go. The village is all steep lanes and stairs, without any directional signs or discernable way to get to the church. We don’t want to walk down a bunch of stairs and lanes only to find ourselves in the wrong place and have to climb up again. Thus, we head straight to lunch – and actually find a place open before noon! With lunch – not breakfast foods. A real shocker – but an excellent one. Sitting down in the shaded courtyard of Lefkiano, Ed digs into an order of Musky octopus with chopped macaroni – the most different thing we’ve seen so far on this trip! But he reports its very good. And I have the Greek style fried cod with garlic spread (that is more garlic mashed potatoes than spread…but…oh well). The bread comes with these 2 great dips – one beet and one garlic – and the whole meal is delightful.

Climbing back out of town, we get to our car, barely get it out of the 90 degree angled parking entrance, then happily drive on normal streets down out of the mountains to n ancient marble quarry site. It is literally down a narrow dirt road and we sort of chicken out after a couple of kilometers, as there is nothing here but a couple of ruins of old stone houses and old marble mining equipment. Plus you can’t really see where the road goes….. Hmmmm….worth it? Nah. we just take pictures and boogie – stopping though at the fixer upper we’re sure we can buy for a decent price. Our new home! LOL.

Continuing on, we then drove past Paro town and all the way to the other end of the island (a whopping 20 minutes) to try to find the Museum of Cycladic Folklore. One missed turn, a round about detour and success! There off a little side road was the museum. Ok – this will end up being one of the highlights of the entire trip. A huge garden area of miniature (small not teeny) replicas of all the famous buildings around the Cyclades. You have to ring bell (ship’s bell) to get in. Then the woman who manages the museum comes to the gate, introduces herself as Katerina, the daughter of Benetos Skiadas, the man (yes, one single man!) who created all these miniatures welcomes us into the garden.

Seriously. I wish we had more time. It is a short port call day, but if we’d had time? I would have spent a lot more time exploring these amazing creations. The detail – down to miniature replicas of people and chapel icons. Incredible! So – you were warned before about the pictures? Here are tons and tons of the garden and the faithful replicas of everything from the Mykonos windmills to the White Tower of Thessaloniki – and so much more!

We finally went inside the small museum building and shown around by Katerina and shown all the incredible hand made miniature ships Benetos built from scratch. Just him alone!    As we marvel at all the ships on display and tell her how much we loved the garden, Katerina explains how this all came about. Her father made everything from memory. All these things were from the places he had seen from his navy vessel when he was in the service. When he came home from the service, he became a fisherman and moved here with his wife, Popi. When he began making the miniatures, Popi just loved them. Benetos would make one of these replicas for her as a gift and she loved it so much he would make more. it’s the ultimate love story on display! So sweet and wonderful. Plus – he had absolutely no training. He just had an idea, figured out how to build it and did.

What a wonderful way to end our Paros explanations.

We return to Paros with no incidents, return the car to a much more friendly and interested car rental gal – she is obviously just not a morning person. She was so impressed with all we did – and what we did. Yeah, well, find the oddities – we’ll be there!

Then it was back to ship, a lovely sail away…

…attend a lecture on current Greek democracy, hit the gym, dinner and go to the first production show. The show was excellent with 4 singers and 2 dancers, all wonderful. And it was their very first show – first time ever performing together for an audience. Would have never known it. Went off without a hitch. Good day. Great evening. Tomorrow? We’re back to the Greek mainland and Volos.

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