11/22 – Athens Afternoon & Anniversary Dinner

Well fed, we strike off down the little lanes, actually finding our way correctly to Anafiotika and the Church of St. George of the Rock. This church is located at the bottom of the NE side of the Acropolis rock – you can see the fortifications keeping watch just above the church.  It is an ancient little church that was rebuilt by the Anafiotes, the stonemasons from Anafi who settled in this little section of town (thus Anafiotika).  They used materials, ancient marbles that were round and white, that reminded them of their island to rebuild the church.  While the church is not open, it is still a great place to snap some photos and soak up the old local history.

Then it is wandering through Anafiotika, with the picturesque little whitewashed houses all leaning against one another and the fantastic views across the city of Athens and off to the mountains in the distance. 

Marching on, we pass some little unidentified church – it isn’t the Church of Agios Simeon – which is where we are headed, but we’re sort of done with trying to figure out the street patterns and routes to take. We do find the Old Athens University, but it is nothing to speak of, so we continue on to the old Roman Agora, which I didn’t think we’d have time to visit.

We did and we do!  Built in the 2nd half of the 1st Century B.C., the Roman Agora was designed to move the commercial center of the city from the Ancient Agora, with donors the likes of Julius Caesar and Augustus.  The area is a wonderful place to wander and explore. There are helpful placards with lots of information, tons of excavated marble placed about the huge open courtyard.

At the end of the courtyard are steps leading up to the tower of the winds, a mammoth structure with amazing carvings at the top, representing the personification of the direction of the winds.  Inside the soaring domed roof tower are the remnants of a waterclock which was operated by water running down from the Acropolis. Originally created as a monument, after the Ottoman’s captured the city, it was used as a church and then later still as a monastery. 

Off to the right of the tower is a the Fetiye mosque that was added in the late 17th Century. Built on the ruins of a Christian basilica, this mosque is one of the oldest examples of the clover leaf-cross in square style because the central dome is supported by 4 smaller domes in cruciform layout.  

Once we’re done with the Agora, we decide to call it a day and skip the rest of places that were on our walking list.  We’ve had fun and seen a ton – we’re good to go find some place to have a beer and wine now.  Wandering through the Monistraki flea market (which is pretty much closed up on a November Monday afternoon) we end up at Ellyz Café which has a really appealing patio with fuchsia climbing flower vines (albeit fake climbing flower vines) wrapped around the windows.   It is a lovely place to sit – and sit we do because it takes forever for someone to come take our order and then forever again to get their attention to pay.  But, we’ve got nothing to do until our 7pm reservations at Jimmy’s fish, so we’re happy to sit and wait and then sip and wait.  Plus they have super good alcohol snacks of…..yes!…bugle type chips.  What more can you ask?

It is easy from here to return to the Monastraki metro station and hop on the train directly back to Piraeus.  Which we do, stopping outside the station for a couple of cappuccinos to take the chill out of us, then returning to the apartment to relax before dinner. 

Dinner at Jimmy’s Fish – while yes, expensive – is a fabulous success. After a little bit of unease when the two waiters couldn’t quite figure out our vaccination cards, we were seated on the waterfront with a heater turned on by our side.  The waiter helpfully sat us one table from the water to alleviate some of the worst of the wind, and it was quite cozy and romantic there.

We start off with a huge mixed salad, then sea bass ceviche, served in this great dish that is a glass bottle cut in half. Totally cool.  Then move onto “Myconos” Squid – a whole squid grilled and stuffed with feta cheese.  Oh yum.  And of course a plate of grilled octopus and we are just a happy anniversary couple sitting on the side of the Mikrolimano harbor with the boats bobbing aimlessly at their docks.

Ubering back to the apartment, the driver takes us up through the Kastella neighborhood, which I had plans to walk tomorrow – but good thing he did take us that way – because unh huh, oh no, not a darn chance in the world we are hiking up this mountain. There are supposed to be beautiful views from the top, but we’ll just take their word for it and search it on the internet!  We’re athletic…but not that athletic.

And, that was the perfect end to a perfect day and perfect anniversary evening.

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