11/20 – Last day in Orvieto

Wow! These days have just flown by.  We can’t believe we are almost ready to leave.  Sadly. 

But, we’ll make the most of the time we have left here by wandering around the town another day – and today – actually climbing the Torre del Moro.  This tower, erected in the 13th Century and 155 feet tall, was the center of the old town with its vast panoramic views in every direction.  Restored in 1866 to include the clock and the two bells, it is probably one of the most well-known landmarks in the town – next to the Duomo that is!  We’ve walked past it dozens of times, but never climbed to the top – and well, today is the day!

Arriving at a little before the posted opening time of 10:30am, we find the doors open and the tower already open as well.  Paying our entrance fee, the lovely ticket lady tells us to take the lift – it only goes to the 2nd floor – but as she says, why not?  Then climb the remaining 170 stairs of the way up to the rooftop for the views.  Sure, why not?

The climb isn’t as strenuous as you might think. Plus, there are great vantage points to stop for photos and catch your breath.  Every so often a window appears with a cut out view to the outside world.  Then there are odd little weights and rocks set into the walls.  As well as a view into the back of the clock face.  All set around this great picturesque square spiral staircase.

At the top, we exit the stairwell to the blindingly brilliant sunshine and the town an the landscape stretching out around us.  The Duomo to the East.  The Chiesa Santa maria dei Servi to the North. The Piazza della Repubblica, our little apartment and the Chiesa di San Giovenale to the West.  The Palazzo Del Capitano Del Popolo to the South with its Saturday flea market.  And of course, all of it ringed by the backdrop of the gorgeous Apennines Mountain range. 

Fantastic.

Returning to ground level (without the help of the elevator – only adding 70 more steps to the total!), we peruse the bookstore attached to the tower entrance, then wander back outside, snapping pictures here and there when it strikes our fancy – like the faux bridge of sighs we find in a random alleyway – heading toward this parklike area with a broad walking promenade that hugs the walls on the north side of town. 

It is a lovely walk all the way down the walls, overlooking the valley and the mountains.  We could walk almost all the way down the entire length of the town if we wanted. 

We come back via the back way – near our car parking garden, with a quick rest stop at the apartment, and a check of our recommended restaurant list – we head back out toward “our” old section of town where we stayed in the past to find Trattoria La Mezza Luna, which is near Al Pozzo Etrusco da Stefano, one of our favorite restaurants (which now has an outdoor deck seating area).  La Mezza Luna is said to have the best carbonara (our note says don’t order anything else – just eh carbonara!), and we’re looking forward to testing out this theory.  Unfortunately, when we arrive, we find no outdoor seating and a huge group of people inside at one long table already eating and drinking – and well – no – we’re not doing that!  Our one inside eating event in Girona was enough.  Moving on.

Al Pozzo Etrusco isn’t open yet, and we don’t want to wait another hour for lunch.  Continuing down the road, we pass the Blue Bar (sigh, we do miss that place, but again, no to inside) and end up at Il Cocco ristorante, where we’ve eaten before.  We’re the first people there, grab the primo table right next to the door out of the way of the street and settle in for a lovely lunch of Mixed salad, mixed grilled veggies and the delectable Filetto maial e prugne – pork filets with prunes.  We’ve had that before and loved it – and once again – it does not disappoint.

Instead of taking the direct route back to the apartment, we instead take the ‘circle’ route – heading down to the promenade walk on the opposite side of the city where we first stayed.  We continued down the walk, which actually turns into the other side of the Anello della Rupe and made our way down to the West side of town, where adorable houses perch on the side of the wall along via Volsinia. 

Then we rise back up into our neck of the woods, passing by the Chiesa di San Giovenale, a short distance from the apartment.  The rest of the afternoon is taken up by balcony sitting….

….packing, organizing, and another walk along the northside promenade.

Then it is dinner in – we have so many leftovers – with my bottle of wine and a fond farewell to Orvieto.   

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