We are up and out fairly early for our ride to the airport and 10:40 flight to Rome.  Our driver – through Welcome Pickups – is literally pulling up as we walk out the front door.  Perfect timing!  He is also a darling chatterbox and chats with us the whole way (all of 20 minutes) to the airport – as well as walks us in and helps with the bags (I think he needed a bathroom or a coffee!).  We have plenty of time to relax in the lounge – at least for a couple of cappuccinos – before boarding our 3-hour flight to Rome. 

All goes according to plan; the flight is uneventful – and we did not need the airsick bag (but what a cute idea!).

Arriving at FCO, nobody cares about any paperwork or temperature checks or really anything here.  We breeze through, grab our bags – which of course take forever – then search in vain for the rental car/garage access from our terminal.  They’ve got a bunch of doors closed and lots of areas blocked off to restrict access, which gets us turned around trying to find the car rental walkway from our terminal.  We end up going outside to the next terminal, having to search for the entrance door, going inside again, being ignored by the temperature checkers (they were too busy talking to each other to care that we walked through the door) then finally up to the 2^nd floor to the rental car/garage walkway.  Damn.  We wasted precious time!  We really want to get out on the road as fast as we can because we really want to get to Orvieto in at least a little daylight.  We know it’s almost a 2-hour drive and we have to navigate those little one-way narrow streets to try to find the parking area (inside a gated little grass lot) on the other side of the town from where we normally stay, which will be far, far easier with some light.  Oh well – we knew we’d be pushing it, now, we’ll just deal.

The rental process goes smoothly and quickly, and we are out and into our little Panda before you know it.  (PS – I absolutely adore these cars and want one to take home!  I so wish we had them in the States!!)  We basically live here too – it’s like Barcelona – so we know the way to Orvieto like the back of our hands.  Out the Airport access highway, to the ring road to the A1 then straight up to Orvieto. 

Even though we make it quickly with very little traffic, we don’t make the sunset.  Sigh.  Oh well, I’m confident we can find our way, even in the pitch dark.  So, since it doesn’t really matter how much time we spend getting up to the town, we stop at Coop on the way to stock up for our 4-day stay.  That store is amazing! Just like always, great selection of everything from food to clothing – and a great stock of beer and wine.  We’re set with not too, too much in the way of weight, since we know we will be hoofing it to the apartment from the parking lot.

We’re ready now for our adventure up the hill to the parking space!  Fortunately, the apartment host has provided totally detailed instructions on not just where and how to park (next to the wall, if the gates are closed just get out and open them!) and where to locate the apartment building door (recessed, very unassuming, easily missed, keycode for keys, etc.).  The drive up the side of the tufa is a little unnerving in the pitch dark, even with our bright lights on.  We’ve driven up this way before, although it has been a while – and it was in the daylight – so we aren’t 100% unfamiliar, but it is still very different from the other side of the town where we typically stay.  Ascending to the top, we only miss one turn – and it is easily corrected by simply turning through the municipal parking lot.  Then it is up the little narrow cobblestone streets, winding past residential areas, commercial areas, a cool little church, then down Vicolo Corsica – this narrow steep, virtual alleyway and onto Via del Popolo which takes us past the public parking lot and finally onto Via Pecorelli and the little garden parking area for our car.  Yes!  Success!  We made it!  We park by the wall (as instructed) – thanking our lucky stars we have the little baby Panda with its maneuverability – and begin our walk to the apartment. 

It only takes about 5 minutes or so, even hauling the bags to find the unassuming wooden door, grab the keys and drag our shopping and suitcase up the 3 steps in the vestibule to Il Balconcino, our home for the next 4 days.  It is an adorable apartment with ample room, a huge bedroom/living room (sofa on one wall), large eat in kitchen, well-appointed bath, and the best, the little balcony overlooking the western side of the town. 

Even though it is pitch dark, it isn’t even 7pm yet, which means we organize ourselves quickly, read through more detailed information regarding places to eat and shop, then head out into town to find someplace to grab a quick bite.  Once we get our bearings, it is all familiar as usual.  We are steps away from the Piazza Sant’Andrea, which begins the mostly pedestrian portion of Corso Cavour where we stroll, looking at the different cafes and bars, all of which are either busy or not yet open for dinner.  Continuing on toward the Duomo, most of these restaurants are completely empty – open, but the outside tables are empty – so we’re not quite certain if they are serving out there or not.  Continuing on, we decide to check out Pippo’s place – where he has the best porchetta sandwiches – just to make sure it still exists, because we’re pretty sure he’s not open at night.  He’s still there, and still not open for dinner.  But at least we know we’ll have one lunch here.

Turing around, we are greeted by gorgeous Duomo – perfectly lit against a perfectly clear night sky and perfectly full moon!  It just doesn’t get any better than this!  God, I love this place. 

Photo opp taken – we are now left to decide where to eat.  We opt for the easiest and closest choice – the Bar Hescanas Societa – which is located right on the Duomo plaza.  Not the cheapest. Not the best. But we’ve eaten here before and it is quite good if not touristy.  Of course at night, this late in the season, it isn’t even all that touristy, with a couple of locals at the bar and the grumpy owner who waits on us.  We sit in the open-air courtyard type area that has wide open archways to the outdoor seating and Via Duomo with views of the Duomo itself, ordering a plate of mixed salumi and ensalata mista.  Woah – way too much food – but oh so good – including the porchetta slabs that are included on the meat platter.  We will be so well fed this trip!

Happily done gorging, we make our way back to our little Il Balconcino and settle in for the evening.  It feels so good to finally be back here in one of our favorite Italian towns!