12/10–Devil’s Island

It is another beautiful (albeit hot) day as we sail into the bay opposite the Iles du Salut – the 3 islands that make up the prison complex so to speak. We get a great view of all the islands from the gym, where I rush off the treadmill and upstairs to try to get a few good pictures – try being the operative term here. Once properly anchored, we find our way to the lounge for tender tickets and, as usual, are on the first tender (blessedly alone without the pressure of herding cats onto a tour today).

Iles du Salut (ironically meaning “Salvation Islands”) comprise of Ile Royale, Ile Ste. Joseph and of course Ile du Diable (Devil’s Island). Ile Royale is the largest of the 3 and the main island where all prisoners were landed and were housed as well as where the director and staff lived, the prison hospital, insane asylum and main prison cells were located. Ile Ste. Joseph contained the solitary confinement cells and of course Ile du Diable was where the “exiles,” those deemed to be too far gone for rehabilitation (ha!) or release, where housed. We will only be visiting Ile Royale today – and there is no “ferry” service or commercial means to get to the other islands, although there are small private boats that are landing on Ile Ste. Joseph.

The tender lets us off at the south point of the island where there are paths that circle the exterior shores as well as paths that lead up into the main prison complex. We had read that everyone goes to the left, so we should go to the right, but it is a little confusing as to which path is which, so we just head straight up the middle of the island, past the Director’s Quarters with its faded orange and yellow exterior and large rock garden walls. Its very French countryside looking, only the mama monkey with her baby, oh yeah, and the palm trees, make you realize you aren’t exactly in France here. It’s also pretty well preserved, not at all a ruin as we expected most buildings to be. There’s definitely electricity here, and it could probably still be in use in some form or another.

From here, we take the sloping cobblestone walk lined with short rock walls and palm trees, with some decent views out across the water to Devil’s Island. The cobblestones are covered with moss and grass, making us very happy it isn’t raining, because this would be a terribly treacherous walk when wet. The walk itself is a tad strenuous, basically because it is all uphill, but it is so incredibly beautiful. The rock walls, palms swaying in the breeze, gorgeous views over the water. This would be an absolute island paradise if it weren’t for the history of the place.

At the top of the walk is the Semaphore building – where the guards would signal the other islands and ships with flags. It is more rundown than the Director’s quarters, but still in pretty good shape, with some of the flag poles remaining on one side and a sort of dilapidated porch circling the building. You can imagine the views from up here years ago before the trees all took over. From here it is an easy walk to the old Guard’s mess, which has been converted into a restaurant and hotel (I’m not staying here! That’s for sure!). There are peacocks grazing through the yard, a great view of Devil’s Island and a really nice patio where we can come for drinks later (it is far too early yet to even contemplate food or beverages).

Beyond the hotel is the main prison complex, which is totally amazingly cool! Since we just watched the movie, it is so easy to envision how this must have been in the 1800’s. Creepy to the max, but so terribly intriguing. We start our explorations in what are currently hotel rooms (again, not staying here!!!) but in the day were the guard’s quarters. It’s a complex of I don’t know how many little apartment style buildings with porches, tile roofs, shuttered windows and bougainvillea type plants growing all over them. And, of course, they are located right next to the Prison cells which are as spooky and creepy and horrible as you would think they would be!

There is a building you can enter and explore the little tiny stark cells, some with doors still affixed to give you the true feeling of being locked away on this godforsaken little piece of earth off the coast of South America. Argh. You can imagine the heat, the insects, the cruel reality of being here for however long. We wander in and out of different cells, noting the metal frames attached to the walls, where long strips of wood were laid to use as a bed. The bars on the upper windows that open up on to the long hallway. Truly mind boggling (or shattering as the case may be).

Out behind this cell block are the ruins of more cell blocks that are not as well preserved as the first. It looks like these were made only of rock, not the plaster we saw in the other building. There is the same basic layout, the long hall, the high ceilings, but only a single row of cells, which are hard to define as the walls have fallen and there is rubble everywhere. These are the cells for the sick prisoners, as well as solitary confinement (we guess before they were sent over to Ile Ste-Joseph – or maybe it is just solitary confinement for the sick?) There aren’t any explanations besides a minimal number of signs outside the buildings (along with a basic map that we got from the hotel lobby).

Still, it’s amazing.

Past these cell blocks is yet another penitentiary, probably for the mass population, but currently being used as storage for all sorts of landscape equipment and other hotel necessities. Directly across from this large building is the Prison Hospital. I’m sure it was not a nice place when in operation, but now, it seems almost grand in a hollowed out shell sort of way. The brick walls soar above you, and peeking inside (you aren’t permitted inside, besides it doesn’t look like it is very stable) gives you a glimpse of huge open rooms, along with smaller wards separated by wooden doors. It’s just this huge hulking mass of stone and wood and probably evil spirits, but with a sort of picturesque side as it sits next to the huge light house right next door.

Next stop is the church, but it isn’t open yet. There are supposed to be some incredible murals inside, but the only way to see them is to stick our phone inside the wooden shutter slats to take pictures. I snap a few – which are actually pretty cool and artsy looking – before I worry about dropping the darn thing inside with no way to retrieve it! Then we move onto the children’s cemetery at the very end of the complex which is a sad and poignant little area, reminding us of the harsh realities of living here in the 1800 and 1900s. The focus of these islands is always the prisoners, and rightly so because of the horrifying stories associated with being imprisoned here. But the untold stories of the guards, their families and their children, many of whom did not survive the island, bring us up short and make us re-think just what a rotten place this current island paradise really was in those days.