10/2 – Snagov Monastery outside Bucharest

And, we’re off…on our first tour with our new group. We manage to snag the front seats on the bus, giving us a great view of all the statues and monuments we’ve passed on our Bucharest sojourns – the Arch of Triumph, the Monument to the Heroes of the Air and the Wings of Freedom – before heading out into the countryside on our way to the Snagov Monastery, famous for (allegedly) the tomb of Vlad the Impaler.

After a relatively quick 30 minute drive, we reach the Snagov parking lot and make our way across the footbridge to the solitary monastery perched all alone on a little island on the northern end of the Snagov Lake. The monastery dates back to the 14th C and before that a wooden church dating back to the 11th C. Vlad the Impaler somehow had ties to the region and built fortifications around the Monastery in 1456, as well as a wooden bridge from the mainland to the island, a new church (which subsequently sank into the lake) and a prison and torture chamber, the remains of which are still visible behind the monastery. He was so enamored with the place, he allegedly asked that this remains be interred here when he died. Of course that fact is up for debate as many scholars have debunked the theory. But nonetheless – it’s Dracula people! Let’s go see his alleged tomb!

We march across the now stone footbridge (rebuilt after the wooden bridge burnt down during the 1821 Revolution) and get our first glimpse of the beautiful white stone entry arch and the sandstone monastery behind. It is a gorgeous and peaceful little place (except for us busloads of tourists that is!) and you can see why someone would be drawn to it.

Once on the island we pay our camera fees (a new tariff that the monastery caretakers have just started, and as our tour guide tells us, isn’t always collected, but today it is) and enter into the cool interior of the beautifully appointed monastery building. Here we get an overview of the area (now a big tourist hotspot) and a history of the buildings, plus a look at the alleged tomb of Vlad.

Anti-climatic? Certainly, but still worth the add on tour! It’s fun to postulate on what all went on here in the 14th and 15th centuries! While our guide drones on, we take the opportunity to leave the chapel and wander around the beautiful grounds outside. The monastery building is absolutely beautiful against the bright blue skies and vibrant green trees, and walking down to the other side of the island presents us with beautiful views across the placid lake. We even manage to find the brick footprint of the prison, all that remains of the torture chambers and cells, in the back yard.

Then it is time for our “surprise” snacks! A table laden with those icky (for me) Rom candy bars and nasty liquor, but also with some very nice cheese, olives and grapes. The only problem is that everyone is eating with their fingers (except for the olives which fortunately have toothpicks), so you have to be extra special careful as to which piece of cheese or fruit you pick up (you can be assured the Purel is in my hand the entire time, although I do refrain from putting Purel directly onto the food, but I thought about it!). We tried to reuse the toothpicks for the cheese, but there is, of course, a general scrum for the food with people not exactly sharing making it terribly hard to juggle the Purel, the toothpick and the floppy cheese. Sigh. Group mentality!

After our snack, we wander back to the bus for our next stop at Mogosoaia Palace.

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